A Quick Guide to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with 5 Top Watches

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has a special place in the history of modern watchmaking. Today it is not only an iconic timepiece. But few watches are considered comparable to Royal Oak. Perhaps the Patek Philippe Nautilus or the Rolex Daytona garner similar reverence in the watch collecting community. But while the Nautilus and the Daytona are clearly important watches, the Royal Oak blazed a trail in ways no other watch has.

The First of Its Kind

Released in 1972, the Royal Oak is considered the first truly integrated stainless steel sport watch, paving the way for many timepieces to come. And while today Audemars Piguet is most well known for the watch, before 1972 the brand had never worked with stainless steel before.

The story goes that Audemars Piguet tasked Gerald Genta, aka the Maestro, to come up with a new integrated bracelet design. Genta apparently came up with the design in a single night, sketching it on a napkin nonetheless. Interestingly, the first prototype of the Royal Oak was made in white gold. This is not because Audemars Piguet intended to release the watch in white gold. Instead, the brand had never worked with steel before. Steel is much harder than gold, and therefore gold is easier to work with. Thus, was easier for Audemars Piguet to make the prototypes in white gold (in a material the brand was familiar with).

Today, the Royal Oak is the standard by which all integrated bracelet stainless steel sport watches are judged. The integrated bracelet sport watch has become a must have in most brands’, both luxury and affordable, catalogs. From the Patek Philippe Nautilus (which also was designed by Genta) to the Czapek Antarctique, there are so many integrated designs to choose from.

But this article is not concerned with any other brands’ integrated bracelet watches. We will take a look at 5 of our favorite offerings from the one and only original, the Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 16202ST

We have to start of this list with the modern interpretation of the Ref. 5402ST, very first Royal Oak ever produced. The Ref. 16202ST “Jumbo” is two-handed, like the original, and features the model’s Grand Tapisserie dial. The watch is a very wearable 39mm in diameter and 8.1mm thin. Which begs the question: why is it called the “Jumbo”. While today 39mm is considered small for a watch, historically (including when the Royal Oak was released), the size was considered large for a wristwatch. If you are looking for a modern Royal Oak that is as close as possible to the original, this is the watch.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph “Frosted” White Gold Ref. 26239BC 

Many may think that Audemars Piguet has become a one trick pony with the Royal Oak. And clearly the Royal Oak collection is by far the most popular collection from the brand. But within the collection, there is a huge variety of pieces, from different complications to materials. Clearly AP is using the Royal Oak as the platform for innovation. One such innovative piece is the Royal Oak Chronograph “Frosted” White Gold Ref. 26239BC. To create frosted gold Royal Oaks, a machine done Florentine finish was applied the entire watch. This creates a glimmering effect on the watch you can’t see anywhere else. And just makes the watch more interesting and a sure conversation piece on the wrist. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Openworked Ref. 15407ST.OO

Beyond the steel 16202 and 15500, perhaps no Royal Oak is more iconic than the Ref. 15407ST. It features comes 41mm, which is the same size as many other Royal Oaks (though it is larger than the original 39mm), and features a fully openworked dial. What results is a stunning watch that, even without any true complications, is a grail for many collectors.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 26586IP

The Royal Oak Ref. 26586IP is as much an oddity as it is a horological marvel. This perpetual calendar is an incredibly 6.2mm thick and fashioned from a mixture titanium and platinum, giving it a very sporty look. But what you will probably notice first is the lack of AP’s signature Grand Tapisserie dial. Instead, the brand opted for a matte, satin blue dial, which to be honest, we love. When it was released in 2019, It was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch (with a movement that is just 2.89mm thick). This piece not only looks great on the wrist, but is an easy wear for any collector. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Ref. 26730TI

How could we include a second Royal Oak without a Grand Tapisserie dial? Well, when it has a beautiful hobnail gray/blue dial with tourbillon, we couldn’t keep it off the list. The Ref. 26730TI is another sporty Royal Oak that includes a high-end complication. The 26730TI features a 41mm titanium case that gives the watch a very sporting look. If you are looking to mix a classical complication with a modern look, the Ref. 26730TI is a great choice.