34 Best Chronograph Watches to Buy in 2024
Buyers GuidesPublished by: EWC Team
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A chronograph is one of the first complications that many enthusiasts consider when looking to diversify their collection. Watches with a stopwatch function remain one of the most useful pieces that you can buy and the allure of a well finished, manually-wound chrono is hard to beat. The complication dates back to the early 1800s, a period when manufacturers were making many significant technological advancements.
Chronographs come in all shapes and sizes, from sport to dress, manual to automatic. Our goal is to simplify this complex market and examine some of the best chronographs the industry has to offer to collectors at all price points.
Rolex Daytona 116500
Price: $25,000-$27,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
If you ask someone to think of a chronograph, odds are they probably have an image of a Rolex Daytona in their mind. First released in 1963, the ref. 116500LN seen above brought a ceramic bezel to the watch for the first time. The black bezel recalls the vintage reference 6263, now with the added benefit of modern materials, construction, and a caliber 4130 movement inside. The 116500LN comes with either a white or black dial, with the white dial being slightly more popular. Regardless of your choice of dial color, the 116500LN is a continuation of one of the most iconic automatic chronographs of all time. And now that it has been discontinued, values are certain to hold steady, if not continue to appreciate. That being said, the new updated ref. 126500LN maintains the established design aesthetic while updating the watch with the new caliber 4131 self-winding movement. Clearly, the Daytona is one of the best chronograph watches currently on the market.
Rolex Daytona 116589TBR “Eye of the Tiger”
Price: $173,000-$178,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold
While the steel Daytona may be a classic, there are plenty of more flamboyant options in the Daytona collection if the standard steel is just too basic for you. If you prefer a blingy piece, Rolex has you covered. To say the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” is polarizing would be a severe understatement. The “Eye of the Tiger” takes a white gold Daytona and bathes its dial in brilliant-cut pave diamonds, a bezel of trapeze-cut diamonds, and further brilliant-cut diamonds at the hour markers. The diamonds on the dial are set among a sea of black lacquer “tiger stripes” that create the striking dial pattern that defines this piece. If you are looking for a show stopper Rolex and enjoy the attention a watch like this brings, this is the piece for you!
Omega Speedmaster MoonWatch
Price: $4,500-$5,500 Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Hesalite, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Stainless Steel
With so many versions of the Omega Speedmaster MoonWatch produced over the decades, there is sure to be one that will peak almost any collector’s interest. At the entry level, versions from the most recent two generations of Speedmasters with the 1861 movement inside can be found for pretty affordable prices. These watches, especially the variant with a hand-wound movement and hesalite crystal, offers collectors one of the most storied and popular chronograph tool watches on the market (I mean, its been to the moon!). On the opposite end, Omega has expanded the line to also include special edition precious metal Speedmasters, which understandably command top dollar. If having the best movement tech is a must, the new, updated MoonWatch with the caliber 3861 offers Omega’s Master Co-Axial technology in the iconic stainless steel Speedmaster case. Whether it is the NASA and Apollo connections or just an appreciation for the history of chronographs, there really is a Omega Speedmaster MoonWatch for every collector.
Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award
Price: $36,000-$40,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Stainless Steel
Released in 2015 to mark the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 13 mission of 1970, the 1,970 piece limited edition Omega Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” commemorates one of the United States’ most historic and heroic missions to the moon. Unlike a traditional Speedmaster, this piece replaces the aluminum bezel insert with black ceramic, appliqué indexes on the dial rather than printed ones, and a white dial to match Snoopy’s color scheme. This piece also features a highlight on the chronograph register of 14 seconds, since on the Apollo 13 mission, the astronauts used their Omega Speedmasters to time a 14-second firing of their engines to help return home to Earth safely. The details continue to the caseback, which features a hand-engraved sterling silver representation of Snoopy applied on an enamel base. The Silver Snoopy Award is given by NASA to suppliers that distinguish themselves in service to the nation. Omega was awarded the honor in 1970 following the Apollo 13 mission as a result of the crucial role their timepieces played in ensuring the success of the mission.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A
Price: $115,000- $125,000, Case Size: 40.5 mm, Thickness: 12.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
While the stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A was discontinued in 2014, it remains incredibly popular (the two-tone steel and gold 5980/1AR and all rose gold 5980/1R are still currently in production). The combination of the iconic Nautilus design with the functionality of a 12-hour chronograph and a date function creates one of the most daily-wear-friendly complicated Pateks of recent history. The “overlapping” chronograph subdials at six o’clock keeps the dial from feeling cluttered (as opposed to having the more standard separate subdials). The blue dial is the closest to the original Nautilus, but this white dial was produced for the shortest period of time, making it the most collectible of the bunch.
Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph 5930P
Price: $105,000-$115,000, Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.2mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum
A combination of both a world time complication and a flyback chronograph, the 5930P is a contemporary Patek offering, released in 2021. The watch features a green center dial with circular hand-guilloche and chrono register, surrounded by a day-night indicator and concentric world time rings that enable the wearer to track different time zones. Patek Philippe has coupled the 5930 with an automatic winding caliber CH 28‑520 HU for convenience in daily wear and 48-hours of continuous power reserve. It is always exciting to see brands like Patek experiment with bolder colors like the green seen here that would have been considered unthinkable in the past.
Patek Philippe 5170P Tiffany & Co. Dial
Price: $105,000-$115,000 , Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 10.7mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.4mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Platinum
With 3 Patek Philippes on our list, you can clearly tell its one of our favorite brands. Yet another show-stopper from Patek, the 5170 blends the aesthetics of a vintage Patek with the accuracy and quality of modern manufacturing. While this piece might look like just any regular 5170 on the surface, closer examination of the beautiful blue dial reveals two defining details. First, in place of conventional markers, this blue dialed platinum variant uses baguette-cut diamond hour markers. Second, this piece bears the legendary Tiffany & Co. stamp above 6:00 that has caused the value of many other references to explode on the secondary market. An atypical example of a modern classic from Patek, you cannot go wrong with the 5170P Tiffany.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Price: $10,000- $12,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 8.75mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is perhaps the most lauded stainless steel sport watch to be introduced in the last ten years. Launched in 2014, the Genta-esque square design and ultra-thin case struck a chord with collectors worldwide. Since the Octo Finissimo’s initial release, Bulgari has continuously built out the collection with tourbillons, skeletonized dials, and other complications. The Chronograph GMT seen here takes the standard Octo Finissimo stainless steel case and fits it with both chronograph and GMT functionalities. The ever-popular blue sunray dial brings some additional visual interest and makes it a compelling buy at a very reasonable price-point.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Chronograph
Price: $35,000-$40,000, Case Size: 43.2mm, Thickness: 14.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.2mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 12 ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
The Streamliner collection is H. Moser & Cie’s first foray into the integrated bracelet wristwatch category. The Streamliner Chronograph features their in-house HMC 907 movement with a flyback function and integrated clutch, giving the piece added horological cred. On top of that, the full movement is on display through the caseback, as the automatic winding mechanism is attached to the dial side of the movement. To keep the dial legible, both the chronograph seconds and minutes are centrally mounted. If you want to stray from the norm a bit, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner is worth a closer look.
Breitling Premier B25 Datora Salmon Dial AB251020/K1P1
Price: $8,500- $9,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 15.2mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
Combine an annual calendar, chronograph, and traditionally designed salmon dial and you get the stunning Breitling Premier B25 Datora. Relying on some of their more historical designs and moving away from the completely high-polished oversized designs of the early 2000s, this 42mm watch is a breath of fresh air for Breitling enthusiasts. Offered in stainless steel and with 100 meters of water resistance, this dressy timepiece is more than capable of being a suitable daily companion for those inclined towards a more traditional but modern sartorial style. And that price!
Richard Mille RM 004
Price: $230,000-$240,000, Case Size: 48mm, Thickness: 16mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: N/A , Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold
When discussing Richard Mille, it can be difficult for some enthusiasts to get past their association with high profile celebrities and some of their more “look at me” designs. However, the RM 004 displays a great deal of clever engineering. Hardcore RM collectors will know that there are two versions of this model – the initial version which had a titanium baseplate (extremely rare to see as it was produced for a very short time), and the RM 004-V2 (seen here) which features a carbon fiber baseplate. Combined with the carbon plates, the stainless steel split-seconds hands of the original version created enough static electricity to magnetize the watch, forcing Richard Mille to switch the hands on all watches, even those already sold, to titanium ones. For V3, Richard Mille modified the chronograph mechanism for more control and rigidity, in addition to replacing aluminum bridges in the movement with grade 5 titanium. Clearly never satisfied, Richard Mille’s complicated timepieces are true engineering marvels.
Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Diver Chronograph
Price: $120,000- $130,000, Case Size: 50mm, Thickness: 18mm, Lug-to-Lug: 59.3mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold
Continuing the theme of over-engineered timepieces, Richard Mille’s RM 032 is a flyback chronograph rated for 300 meters of water resistance that also sports an annual calendar function. The movement features variable rotor geometry that allows the rotor’s efficiency to be adjusted for the owner’s activity level (more resistance for more active people, less resistance for less active people). A common concern with dive chronographs is the possibility of accidentally pushing the chronograph pushers underwater, thus allowing water to get into the case. To solve this, Richard Mille engineered a locking mechanism into the crown that secures the pushers, preventing accidental underwater activation. If outstanding durability and clever modern engineering are your what you need, the RM 032 is your watch.
A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split 424.037
Price: $180,000- $190,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 15.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 25M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold
Perhaps one of the greatest chronographs ever made, the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split is one of the most sophisticated mechanical chronographs available today. Historically, the only variety of split chronograph available was the split-seconds chronograph. One of the most difficult movements to manufacture, the split-seconds was enhanced by Lange’s innovative double split, capable of splitting both the seconds and the minutes (a feat never achieved before). Although no other brand successfully matched the Double Split, Lange took things a step further with the Triple Split, now breaking the seconds, minutes, and hours. This is easily one of the most aesthetically pleasing movements available for purchase anywhere — but we’ll let you be the judge.
A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour Le Mérite” 712.050
Price: $450,000- $475,000, Case Size: 41.2mm, Thickness: ,14.2mm Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Rose Gold
Lange’s Tourbograph showcases yet another successful combination of complications with a chronograph. The Tourbograph was released as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 165th anniversary collection, a series of limited pieces all featuring exceptional degrees of craftsmanship. The Tourbograph couples a tourbillon with a chronograph, something that is not seen too often. The watch also has a guilloché dial and is limited to just 50 total pieces in Lange’s proprietary honey gold. The Tourbograph is simply the definition of high horology.
A. Lange and Sohne Datograph 405.035 Up / Down Platinum
Price: $85,000- $90,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Platinum
If having the absolute best is the requirement, the A. Lange and Söhne Datograph Up/Down is the unarguable answer. Aside from the impressive combination of a chronograph, big date, and power reserve indicator on the dial side, the movement is worth the price of admission by itself. A. Lange & Söhne is famous for using the same level of finishing on all of their watches, from entry level pieces to the highest of high-end complications. But it is best shown on pieces like the Datograph, since the movement architecture allows for more variety in finishing techniques. Cased in solid platinum and offered on an alligator leather strap, the Datograph Up/Down is one of our favorite chronographs on this list.
F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe Ruthenium
Price: $330,000- $340,000, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.8mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 3ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Platinum
The F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe Ruthenium Edition, while discontinued, is one of Journe’s more subtle designs. The dial is well balanced between the time and the chronograph functionalities, and a large date is visible between 11 and 12 o’clock. This particular variant of the Octa Chronographe, limited to only 99 pieces, is especially valuable featuring a ruthenium coated dial and movement. The Octa Chronographe was Journe’s first chronograph (later replaced by the Centigraphe), but it remains one of our favorite Journe designs. It’s a shame this model is no longer made today!
F.P. Journe Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante Platinum
Price: $140,000- $150,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug-to-Lug: N/A, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 3ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Platinum
Part of F.P. Journe’s LineSport collection, this Monopussoir Rattrapante is a serious heavy hitter. The platinum case and bracelet definitely contribute to this, but it is Francois Paul’s clever movement design that made it possible to have a rattrapante with an 80-hour power reserve. The long power reserve is doubly impressive considering the large 2 digit date window at 6 o’clock, as the big date complication requires more energy from the movement than a conventional date window. While it looks like a typical chronograph with two chronograph pushers, this piece is actually a monopusher. The pusher at 2 o’clock operates the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph, while the 4 o’clock pusher activates the rattrapante. The case back displays the 18k rose gold calibre 1518 movement, displaying the exquisite movement architecture and finishing that F.P. Journe is now known for.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 26331ST Chronograph “Panda Dial”
Price: $40,000- $45,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: N/A, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
When Audemars Piguet released the 41mm line of the Royal Oak, it offered collectors a larger variant without the thickness and heft associated with the Offshore. This gave those with large wrists and a preference for bigger watches a more everyday-friendly version of the classic Royal Oak. 41mm may not seem large compared to some Offshores or offerings from other brands, but the integrated bracelet makes the watch wear larger than its stated size. One of our favorite Royal Oak chronographs is the “panda” which was released as part of the 2017 redesign. The panda dial looks looks right at home on the Royal Oak and gives it a bit of a sporty look (which is always nice on a chronograph). The watch runs on the AP 2385 caliber movement, which is based on the Frédéric Piguet 1185. While not completely in-house, this column wheel chronograph is highly finished and is a high-end caliber well suited for a high-end timepiece.
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph 18k White Gold / Rose Gold Smoked Grey Dial
Price: $30,000- $35,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.1mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: White Gold
Audemars Piguet’s Code 11:59 was the brand’s attempt at another home run to stand alongside its Royal Oak collection. While the original reception was lukewarm, the Code 11:59 has started to grow into its original ambitions, with the redesigned dial and complicated models (including the chronograph) gaining traction with collectors. With its double convex crystal and octagonal center case, the Code 11:59 comes off as Audemars Piguet’s modern re-interpretation of the conventional dress/high-complication timepiece. Inside is AP’s in-house Caliber 4401 movement, bringing their chronograph movements up to date. For those willing to take a chance, the Code 11:59 Chronograph is definitely worth a look.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph “Frosted” White Gold 26239BC
Price: $210,000- $220,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold
The final AP on our list is truly a class-defining chronograph: the ref. 26239BC Royal Oak Chronograph in “frosted” white gold. This piece’s beauty shines not only in its complication, but even more so in the finish of its case and bracelet. While all Audemars Piguet watches have a reputation for exceptional case and bracelet finishing, this “frosted” gold variant takes the finishing detail to completely different level. First introduced in 2016, AP’s frosted finish is achieved by repeatedly hand-hammering the surface of the gold with a diamond-tipped tool. The resulting finish captures and reflects light unlike anything else with each piece being truly unique. You can keep your diamonds and sapphires, give us “frosted” white gold any day!
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
Price: $45,000-$50,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: White Gold
A special variety of chronograph manufactured by a premier design house in the industry, Cartier’s Monopoussoir (or monopusher) chronograph allows all functions of the chronograph to be controlled from a single “mono” pusher. This is no simple feat of mechanical engineering, especially when it is accomplished in a case that is a mere 10mm thick. In addition to its mechanical intrigue, this piece has a beautiful guilloché dial with snailed sub dials, providing a texture that is incredibly alluring. To further separate this piece from other options within its price-point, the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph’s movement was developed by three of today’s greatest watchmakers, F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet (the founder of DeBethune). Good luck finding a piece with a stronger pedigree than that!
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Tribute to 3705 IW387905
Price: $10,000-$13,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 15.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 6 BAR, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Ceratanium
IWC’s Pilot Chronograph ref. 3705 is an iconic model for the brand. The Pilot Collection is a mainstay in their modern catalog, and the 3705 was one of the first ceramic cased timepieces available to the mass market. The original 3705 Pilot Chronograph was produced from 1994 to 1998 but it didn’t sell very well with less than two thousand produced in total making them rare and valuable watches on the secondary market today.
In 2021, to show off their new Ceratanium material (a combination of ceramic and titanium), IWC released the IW387905 in a limited edition of 1000 pieces. Even more rare is a rumored model that featured a matching Ceratanium bracelet. While the iconic 41mm Pilot case is still large compared to the original 39mm reference 3705, it is a welcome return to form from the often 44mm Pilot chronographs in ceramic from previous generations.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Burgundy Dial
Price: $8,000-$9,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
Beyond the brand’s pilot watch offerings, the Portugieser chronograph is one of IWC’s most popular models. This particular variant of the legendary chronograph is most recognizable by its unique burgundy dial. The Portugieser line was introduced in 1939 with the reference 325, the first of a legacy collection that has helped to shape IWC’s presence in the industry in the modern era. The example pictured here is quite special, with its wine-red dial, brushed from the center towards the outskirts of the dial in a sort of sunburst effect. This watch is an affordable piece that packs a serious punch by playing both as classic dress watch and a sporty chronograph.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Chronograph Gray Dial 298609-6001
Price: $13,000-$15,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: N/A, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic , Material: Stainless Steel and 18k Rose Gold
Chopard’s entry into the integrated bracelet sports watch category is one to take notice of. While its release was met with a certain amount of skepticism (every brand today seems to be releasing an integrated sports watch) Chopard’s Alpine Eagle is actually 100% on brand for the company and the logical result of its heritage. The watch is based on their St. Moritz model from the 1980s, and while many associate Chopard with high-end jewelry, their bona fides in watchmaking and movement manufacturing cannot be ignored. Additionally, for those concerned with sustainability and ethics, Chopard goes to great lengths to use recycled materials (Lucent Steel) and ethically sourced gold. Lucent Steel is not only recycled, it is 50% more scratch resistant than conventional steel, anti-allergenic, and more brilliant than traditional steel. Chopard is clearly trying new things with their watchmaking and the Alpine Eagle is proof positive of this new direction.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ceramic
Price: $10,000-$12,000, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.5mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Ceramic
Combining the heritage-inspired design of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection with a flyback chronograph and ceramic case makes for a modern chronograph with handsome good looks. Inside the Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph is the caliber 385F movement. While it may look simply finished from afar, closer inspection reveals beautiful chamfered edges and uniform brushing on the plates and bridges. The solid 18k gold rotor is black-coated, enhancing the sporting look. While not as shatter resistant as steel, the ceramic case will withstand the bumps and scrapes of daily life much better, as the scratch resistant properties of ceramic keeps the detailed case finish intact. With its blacked out look, the stealth appearance won’t tip others off to the heavy hitting watchmaking contained within the black ceramic case.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Blue Dial Chronograph
Price: $10,000-$12,000, Case Size: 43.2mm, Thickness: 16.95mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 300M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
Glashütte Original is best known for their conventional and conservatively designed timepieces, rarely drifting into full-on sport watch territory. That all changed, however, with the release of this heritage inspired dive watch design, the SeaQ collection, in 2019. The chronograph variation followed in 2023, combining their well known big date complication with a dive chronograph, creating a uniquely Glashütte Original sport watch. Still rated to 300 meters, and sporting a graduated rotating bezel, the wearer can enjoy timing various sporting activities while knowing they have a beautifully finished Swiss made automatic movement behind the dial (which can be seen through the sapphire crystal display caseback).
Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
Price: $18,000-$19,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: N/A, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
While trendy colors and integrated bracelets are currently the talk of the town, the Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date combines these modern design cues with a a case design clearly inspired by the 1970s and 1980s. The turquoise dial variation is a limited edition of 100 pieces and injects some summer energy into this already funky watch. The watch’s caliber 37-02 features a column wheel flyback chronograph with a unique 12-hour counter below 12 o’clock. There’s also a power reserve indicator in the running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, and a big date function at 6 o’clock. On top of all of this, the 37-02 also has an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Compared to other similar watches on the market, the Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date punches way above its weight for the price.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm SS
Price: $10,000-$12,000 , Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 11.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: N/A, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
With its textured dial and integrated bracelet, it is easy to see the similarities between Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato and certain other steel sport chronographs…That being said, the Laureato has its own distinct identity, and has become something of an icon for GP given the model’s history and current success. Girard-Perregaux has a lauded history of developing fantastically finished in-house movements, and the Laureato chronograph is no exception. I would argue that in terms of build quality and finishing, it compares favorably to some more well-known options in much higher price-points, including the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow
Price: $6,000-$7,000, Case Size: 37mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.8mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium
Looking for a slimmed down and sporty chronograph harkening back to the 1970s? Look no further than the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow. The watch has a blacked-out micro-blasted titanium case, which is clearly a modern touch. But beyond this, it is definitely retro in style, paying tribute to a rare prototype from the 1970s. Inside the watch is the famed El Primero movement, with its high 5 hz (36,000 VpH) beat rate. If you’re looking for something in between the brand’s fully heritage inspired models and the very modern looking Defy collection, the Chronometer Revival Shadow is a compelling offering from Zenith.
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph
Price: $4,000-$5,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 14.4mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 200M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
The Black Bay collection has not only been a home run for Tudor, it has turned into their bread and butter since the brand relaunched in 2013. Originally released in 2017 (and updated in 2021) the Black Bay Chronograph offers collectors a durable chronograph at a reasonable price. As Tudor is owned by Rolex, you are sure to get a rugged and well made timepiece, and being a dive chronograph, the watch is rated to a respectable 200 meters. The watch runs on the in-house MT5813 movement, with a rock solid 70-hour power reserve and a 45-minute chronograph. Offered in steel with a black or white dial on a bracelet or a variety of strap options, or in two-tone with either a black or gold dial, the Black Bay Chronograph is an affordable watch with robust specs and serious bona fides.
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
Price: $7,500-$8,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
Popularized in the modern watch collector zeitgeist by high profile vintage Heuer sales and a limited edition released in 2018, the brand new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper draws inspiration from a rare model originating in the 1960s. With its bright dial and sub-registers, the enthusiast community went wild when the watch was released just months ago. Indeed, vintage Heuers and modern TAG Heuers with vintage inspired designs have struck a chord with collectors in recent years, and the Skipper is no exception. The multi-colored chronograph minute counter not only looks cool, it was originally intended to act as a regatta timer for sailors. The Skipper utilizes TAG Heuer’s immensely popular new Glassbox Carrera design and TH20-6 movement. We are thrilled to see Tag Heuer going back to its roots and its archive for inspiration and look forward to seeing many more new models like the TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper.
TAG Heuer Monaco CBL2180
Price: $7,000-$8,000, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 14.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium
When it comes to modern chronographs with heritage that don’t break the bank, the TAG Heuer Monaco is a great option. Launched in 1969, the Heuer Monaco gained fame when Steve McQueen prominently wore the watch in the 1971 film Le Mans. The limited edition ref. CBL2180 Monaco seen here pays tribute to a similarly blacked out vintage model known as the “Dark Lord”. It takes the same chunky design we’ve come to love and modernizes it with a black DLC titanium case and rose gold indices and hands. At 39mm, the watch wears a bit larger because of its rectangular design, but this is negated somewhat by the shorter than normal lugs. The TAG Heuer Monaco is a great option for any motorsport enthusiast who is looking for their next chronograph.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT PAM00275
Price: $8,000-$9,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17mm, Lug-to-Lug: 54mm, Lug Width: 24mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually Wound, Material: Stainless Steel
One of the few watches to combine all of what are arguably the most practical of complications, the Panerai Luminor 1950 Monopulsante Chronograph 8 Days GMT PAM00275 is a heavy hitter in more ways than one. The 44mm case houses a column-wheel mono-pusher chronograph. Dial side, there is a 30-minute chronograph display, running seconds with a 24-hour display for a second time zone, and a power-reserve indicator for the 8-day power reserve. Whether it sees occasional wrist time or daily wear, the 8-day power reserve will be a welcomed convenience. A definite departure from the time-only simplicity Panerai is known for, this Luminor showcases what the brand is capable of.
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Hometown Edition New York
Price: $5,500-$6,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 14mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel
With the recent news that Rolex is purchasing the storied Swiss retailer Bucherer, there are questions about what will happen with the Carl. F. Bucherer watch brand. Will Rolex let the brand operate independently? Or, will we soon see Rolex influence in their releases? Whatever happens, we still appreciate many of the brand’s offerings, including this Heritage Bi-Compax Annual Hometown Edition New York. The gradient green dial has a unique look and the dual black chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock tone things down just enough. In addition to being a chronograph, the watch also sports an annual calendar, making this a piece that offers far more than its price tag would indicate.
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