The 25 Best Dive Watches to Buy Now
Buyers GuidesPublished by: Felix Scholz
View all posts by Felix ScholzDive watches, with their ratcheting bezels and glowing dials, are some of the most popular and iconic sport watches of all time. While they are known for their high depth-rating, the true appeal is far removed from their practical application — it’s rare for a Submariner or Seamaster to see underwater action more serious than a little splashing at the beach or poolside at the hotel. The appeal of these rugged instruments is one of intent though, not application. Wearing one of these watches is all about being prepared for the possibility of adventure at any time. In that spirit, here’s our pick of the best modern dive watches you can buy right now.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LN
Any self-respecting list of dive watches needs to start (and perhaps end), with the Rolex Submariner. Since its introduction in 1954 all the way through to this latest version ref. 126610LN, the Rolex Submariner has remained an unchanging staple in the industry. Some details have changed, such as the broader ‘maxi’ lugs and the larger 41mm case, however the fundamental identity – the bezel, the bracelet, the legible dial, the rugged go anywhere do anything vibe – all remain unchanged.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 126619LB
Of course, just because the Submariner has a reputation as a tough, no-nonsense professional dive watch doesn’t mean it can’t also come in gold. This Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold, shows the more luxurious side of this diver. The visual difference between Oystersteel and white gold isn’t all that obvious to the uninitiated (except for its weight on your wrist), but thankfully there’s a blue ceramic bezel to help this extra precious diver stand out.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary Ref. 126600
The Rolex Sea-Dweller is the big brother to the standard Submariner. If the Sub is made for divers, the Sea-Dweller is made for the pros who make deep, sustained saturation dives, thanks in no small part to its helium escape valve. As is their way, Rolex has been gradually improving on the Sea-Dweller since its debut in 1967. The most recent expression is the 50th Anniversary reference 126600, which hit the market in 2017. It’s large, at 43mm in diameter and 15mm thick, and features the modern calibre 3235. There’s also a single line of red text — a nod to much sought-after vintage Red Sea Dweller references.
Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller James Cameron Ref. 136660
To continue the metaphor, if the Sea-Dweller is the grown-up version of the Submariner, the Deepsea Sea-Dweller is the big daddy of the entire model family. Packed full of horological tech and sporting a celebrity explorer pedigree, this watch is rated to 3900 meters, or about 3850 more than anyone really needs. What people are really drawn to though is the hefty case size (44mm diameter and 17.8mm thick!), and the D-Blue dial. The dial, which fades from rich blue to inky black, with that vivid green line of ‘Deepsea’ text, is unusual for Rolex and commemorates James Cameron’s successful voyage to the Mariana Trench. Cameron was inside his submersible, the Deepsea was strapped to the outside!
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary Ref. 2200A-1130
Contrary to what you might think, Rolex doesn’t have a monopoly on serious, historically significant dive watches. Released in 1953 (before Rolex launched the Submariner), Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms model is widely recognized as the first modern dive watch and has seen plenty of variation over the years. Limited to 150 pieces and split into three series for Asia, Europe and North America, the ref. 2200A-1130 seen here celebrates the model’s 50th anniversary in style. The steel case is 40mm across and fairly slim at 13mm tall and sports a classic black dial. But it’s the bezel — in steel with a sapphire insert — that’s the real talking point and really lets this iconic diver stand out.
Blancpain X-Fathoms 5018-1230-64A
This extreme version of the Fifty Fathoms epitomizes the professional, over-engineered diver that can go deeper and stay down longer than you could ever dream of. This watch, the ref. 5018-1230-64A X-Fathoms, sits at the very end of the dive watch spectrum. At an oversized 55mm in diameter and a mighty 24mm tall, this is not a watch that can ‘slip under the cuff’. The X-Fathoms is a concept watch, and like all great concepts, it throws convention out the window. The mechanical depth gauge with two scales, lugless design with an articulated rubber strap, the amorphous metal membrane, all push the boundaries of what a dive watch can be. It’s not for the faint of heart, but it is undeniably cool.
DOXA Sub 300T Professional Ref. 840.10.351.10
There are a lot of watches out there with literary or cinematic associations (we’re looking at you, Bond Seamasters), but arguably none are more closely entwined than adventure author Clive Cussler and Doxa. Whether your idea of adventure is exploring the Sahara or your local brewery, this classic orange-dialed diver is up for the task. With its broad cushion case and decompression bezel on a beads-of-rice bracelet, this watch is full of retro charm.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Blue Ref. 79030B
Without a doubt, the most significant dive watch design of the last decade is Tudor’s Black Bay. Inspired by the brand’s historic divers, now reimagined with a little modern flavor, these classic designs are hard to beat. These days, there seems to be a Black Bay for pretty much everyone. Purists prefer the Fifty-Eight seen here, with its combination of much-loved details like the snowflake handset and rivet bracelet. The blue dial and bezel add the perfect amount of color, but the real clincher is the 39mm case size, which strikes just the right balance between old and new. The Black Bay 58, and really any Black Bay, is a versatile diver that will look great in any watch collection.
Tudor Pelagos Ref. 25600TB
Compared to the vintage inspiration of the Black Bay, the Tudor Pelagos offers a more technical take on a diver. That’s not to say that historic references can’t be found, especially when it comes to the handset and markers. However, the modern identity of the Pelagos is clear to see in the 42mm brushed titanium case, matching bracelet, and ceramic bezel. The in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5612 Swiss automatic movement is equally up to date, with around 70 hour power reserve.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ref. 15720CN.OO.A002CA.01
The Royal Oak has come a long way since its debut in 1972. The bulked-up Offshore variant followed in 1993, and in 2010 we were treated to the Royal Oak Offshore Diver, a hefty 42mm model with a distinctive internal bezel operated by a screw-down crown at 10. This white gold limited edition boasts the brand’s famous Méga Tapisserie dial pattern, integrated rubber strap and black ceramic octagonal bezel. The yellow/beige details on the dial add a vintage feel to this contemporary luxury diver, which — we’ve got to admit — kind of works.
Omega Seamaster 300M James Bond 60th Anniversary Ref. 210.30.42.03.002
In 2022, the world’s most famous fictional spy, James Bond, celebrated his 60th anniversary. To mark the occasion, and to the delight of James Bond fans and watch enthusiasts, Omega released a watch that was a throwback to the beginning of their partnership with the franchise in 1995’s Goldeneye. This steel Seamaster 300M features a blue wave dial, the famous scalloped bezel, and an instantly recognizable Bond gun barrel animation on the caseback. The mesh stainless steel bracelet is an excellent touch, as is the powerful lume on the dial and bezel. If it’s good enough for a fictional spy, it’s good enough for us!
Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 234.32.41.21.01.001
The Seamaster collection offers many different shapes and flavors, and this Seamaster 300 — heavily inspired by the original 1957 models — is a great example of this diversity. With its classic mid-century aesthetic, a clean 41mm case profile, and numerous on-point details, this is the diver for vintage enthusiasts. The broad arrow hour hand, lollipop seconds hand, minimal dial text, and arrowhead hour markers (with numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12) all add up to create a tool watch that is both timeless and firmly rooted in the model’s past.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 75th Anniversary “Summer Blue” Ref. 210.32.42.20.03.00
Earlier this year, Omega made waves (pun intended) releasing 7 new Seamaster models in honor of the 75th Anniversary of the model. There was one common theme among the 7 watches: they all had a beautiful light blue sunray dial, named “Summer Blue” by the brand. Our favorite from among the Summer Blue Collection is the COSC certified chronometer Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 210.32.42.20.03.00. The watch maintains a lot of what makes a Seamster so recognizable, including the wave pattern on the dial. And beyond the blue dial, the bezel insert is a matching blue, and even the luminescent indices are light blue. Omega really leaned into the “Summer Blue” color theme and it works very well.
Omega Ploprof 1200M Ref. 227.90.55.21.99.001
Technically known as the Omega Seamaster 1200m, this unusual-shaped diver is more commonly known as the Ploprof. The distinctive monobloc design dates from 1968 and was designed specifically for commercial diving, which in part explains its exceptionally utilitarian, instrument-like looks. This version promises less strain on the wrist thanks to its titanium case construction and offers plenty of unique features, like the mesh bracelet, bezel lock, and fully protected crown. If you’re after a dive watch that makes a statement and has the specs (it can survive a dive of 1000+ meters!), consider the Ploprof.
Richard Mille RM028
Richard Mille is practically synonymous with the tonneau case shape, so it’s easy to forget that the avant garde brand does indeed make more conventionally shaped watches. The Richard Mille RM028 Diver seen here is anything but conventional, though. First, it’s surprising how well the signature RM aesthetic of open dials, integrated straps, and high performance materials translates into the classic dive watch lexicon, but here we are. The crisp industrial finishes on the case, for example, are a thing of beauty. Of course, the 47mm wide case isn’t subtle, but that’s not really what Richard Mille is all about.
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver “The Night’s Watch” LE Ref. 263-92LE
If your name is George or Martin and you have two middle names starting with ‘R’, have we got the watch for you! Back when Game of Thrones was must-see TV (well before season 7…), Ulysse Nardin teamed up with HBO to honor the Night’s Watch with this very limited Marine Maxi Diver. While continuity issues wouldn’t let Jon Snow wear one, the 45.8mm all-black watch with GoT details, like the wave pattern bezel and dial, as well as Night’s Watch oath text on the ceramic bracelet links, give this watch plenty of character. Jon Snow might know nothing, but you’ll know the time with this rare bird.
Panerai Submersible Carbotech PAM01616
All of Panerai’s watches owe a lot to the brand’s diving origins, but these days it’s the Submersible line that’s most heavily geared towards marine adventure. The 47mm Panerai Submersible Carbotech is a great example of the line, and offers a bit of everything that makes Panerai great. The Luminor case with its oversized crown guard, big, black case, bright blue details, and a bezel made of the brand’s proprietary composite carbon fiber Carbotech material. Perfect for action movies and movie nights alike.
Grand Seiko Professional Diver Hi-Beat Ref. SBGH257
Grand Seiko is famed for their precision and pristine finishing levels and both elements are on display with the Grand Seiko ref. SBGH257 Professional Diver Hi-Beat. The watch stands out as the first professional diver watch to bear the Japanese brand’s name. Its large 46.9mm case has plenty of presence, but it doesn’t overpower the wrist, thanks to the high-intensity titanium case and bracelet. The dial is executed in a deep blue grid pattern and, as you’d expect, has lots of lume so visibility isn’t an issue, even at depth.
Glashutte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Ref. 1-36-13-02-81-70
Glashütte Original’s debut offering in the dive watch category, the SeaQ, isn’t a timepiece that relies on tricks or gimmicks. It’s a tried and true diver design that knows what it’s about, and represents an exceptional level of quality and care. The 43.2mm stainless steel case and bracelet have a fine vertical satin brush finish, and the blue dial and unidirectional rotating bezel are both entrancing and have great legibility. The large panorama date at four is a Glashütte Original signature, and while you might not need it when you’re frolicking in the waves, it’s a well-executed concession to everyday utility.
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage 42 Ref. UB2010
Though they’re best known as masters of the skies, Breitling’s Superocean Heritage 42 proves that the brand knows what it’s about under the waves as well. As the nomenclature suggests, this steel case comes in at 42mm across. The 18k red gold bezel and matching dial hardware add a touch of luxury — contrasting spectacularly with the rich black sunburst dial and smooth ceramic bezel. Rated to 200m, this Breitling SuperOcean offers a bit of bling, elevating this diver into statement territory.
IWC Aquatimer 2000 Ref. IW353803
IWC’s titanium watches of the 2000s have earned themselves a cult following, and looking at the ref. IW353803 Aquatimer 2000, it’s easy to see why! With its internal bezel, and integrated bracelet, this 42mm watch epitomizes a utility-first approach to watch design, and a notable lack of vintage design elements that have come to dominate the genre. The black and yellow dial, including the proud ‘2000 meters’ designation, possesses a stark beauty, and there’s no doubt this hardy IWC has the makings of a future classic.
IWC GST Deep One Ref. 3527
Released in 1999 as part of the GST collection, the IWC GST Deep One 3527 is regarded by many to be one of the most important technical dive watches of its era. IWC managed to pack a mechanical depth gauge and date complication into this precisely tooled 42.8mm by 14.75mm tall titanium case. The model was made in extremely limited numbers as production costs were very expensive, making this an incredibly rare piece. As with the Aquatimer 2000, the design language here is simple and no-nonsense, but just because it’s a technical masterpiece, don’t make the mistake of thinking that you need to be a saturation diver to rock it. It can handle the shallow end of the pool just fine.
Breguet Marine Ref. 5517BR/G3/5ZU
As you might expect, Breguet has a suitably patrician approach to dive watches, as this rose gold ref. 5517BR/G3/5ZU Marine demonstrates. With a grey guilloché dial, coin edge mid-case, and rubber strap, it’s sport with a healthy dash of chic. To be honest, this is less wet suits and decompression tables and more yacht decks and spritzes — but that’s absolutely fine with us. We think of the Breguet Marine as the watchmakers dive watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to Deep Sea Memovox Ref. Q2028440
One of the coolest and most unusual dive watches we’ve seen in the last decade is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to Deep Sea Memovox which was a remarkably faithful remake of 1959’s Memovox Deep Sea Alarm. Rather than rely on a dive bezel, this watch makes use of a mechanical alarm complication to keep track of elapsed time. Beyond this unique mechanical take, the retro aesthetics of the watch, from the ‘LeCoultre’ branding to the cursive “Deep Sea” text, makes for a stunning watch and a remarkable object of design. And, to top it off, even though the watch is vintage in styling, it has a self-winding automatic watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Pro Navy Seals Ref. Q1852670
Looking for a subtle, under-the-radar dive watch? Look somewhere else. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Pro Navy Seals is 46mm of technical dive watch housed in an 18k rose gold case. Equipped with a chronograph, patented crown locking mechanism, 300m of water resistance, and plenty of luminous material, this dive chronograph is both exceptional and precious.
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