The Best Dress Watches at European Watch Company

How do you choose the best dress watch in 2023? In the past, the traditional consensus was that a dress watch should be slender, simple and made of precious metal. Sporty bracelets, dive bezels, and chronograph pushers were best left at home, lest they ruin the impeccable line of your suit.

While the dress code of modern life leans more casual rather than towards the smart end of the spectrum, there’s thankfully still a place for an elegant timepiece whose main purpose is to make you look good. Of course, we don’t need to be too dogmatic in our criteria, so on our long list of contenders, you’ll find titanium cases, larger case sizes, and even a complication or two. What unites these choices is greater than what divides them though. They are bound by a shared spirit, a celebration of traditional watchmaking, as well as the fact that every single one of them would look stunning with a black tie. Without further ado, here are some of the best men’s dress watches you can buy now.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Ref. Q136252

The Master Ultra Thin is something of a staple when it comes to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catalogue, and with good reason. These beautifully proportioned and classically honest watches have a universal appeal that speaks for itself, and that’s especially the case with this moon phase version, perhaps the most romantic of all complications. It’s well-sized for a modern dress watch, too, at 39mm across and 9.3mm thick. The dauphine hands and arrowhead hour markers in rose gold to match the case are sharp, almost as sharp as the pairing of this watch with a nice tuxedo.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Tribute to 1931 Ultra Thin Ref. Q2788570

The Reverso is indelibly associated with the action-packed sport of Polo, but these days, it’s more often seen slipped under the cuffs of suits rather than sports gear. The ‘Tribute to 1931’ collection, released in 2011, was something of a watershed in the modern era of the Reverso. This fan-favorite offered an exceptionally pared-back take on the classic model , which really celebrated the famous flippable case, with a dial that was remarkable in that it didn’t even include the ‘Jeager-LeCoultre’ name, allowing the iconic shape and the name ‘Reverso’ to speak for themselves. The ‘Tribute to 1931’ really caught the vintage revival zeitgeist of the time, so much so that Jay-Z wore a gold version when he performed in black tie at Carnegie Hall. For all these reasons and more, the Reverso has earned its place in the dress watch hall of fame.

F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain Nacre 

The Chronometre Souverain stands out as one of the greatest examples of a contemporary high-horology dress watch. The design debuted in 2005, just six years after François-Paul Journe founded his eponymous brand. Of course the movement is spectacular. The manually wound Caliber 1304 is as finely finished as anything you’d expect from Journe’s atelier, but in addition to the beautiful movement, the dial on this piece cannot be overlooked. At a glance, the dial design of the Chronometre Souverain is instantly recognizable, with its elegantly tapered hands, off-centered small seconds and power reserve, but the real focus is the stunning mother-of-pearl construction. The thin sheet of natural material has been polished on its outer edge to reveal its luster, while the innermost section has been painstakingly engraved with a clous de Paris guilloché finish, adding contrast and demonstrating F.P. Journe’s incredible expertise.

Patek Philippe Gilbert Albert Ref. 3424 

The name Gilbert Albert might not be as well known as that of Nautilus designer Gerald Genta, but in the eight years that Albert worked at Patek Philippe, the avant-garde designer had an incredible impact on the brand’s legacy, creating a range of iconic models that collectors now covet. Gilbert Albert’s designs were very much of their time, with strong, sweeping lines, full of asymmetry and drama. One of the most famous of these models is the reference 3424, which takes the lines of a traditional rectangular case, and gives it an off-center twist. If you’re looking for a vintage dress watch with an impeccable pedigree that’s only getting more popular over time, the Patek Philippe Gilbert Albert 3424 should definitely be on your list.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R

The Calatrava is often cited as the ne plus ultra of dress watches — combining the potent prestige of Patek Philippe with one of the defining dress watch designs: the Calatrava. The first Calatrava dates back to 1932’s Reference 96, and formed the blueprint for every Calatrava that came after, like this rose gold Ref. 6119. The subtle ivory dial offers a smooth counterpoint to the expertly finished clous de Paris texture of the rose gold bezel. At 39mm in diameter, 8.08mm thick, and 46.9mm lug to lug, the Calatrava sits superbly on the wrist. The perfectly simple handset and dial markers are paragons of timelessness, and the manually wound Caliber 30-255 PS movement affords a pleasingly tactile winding ritual. This Calatrava on leather strap is one of the reasons why Patek Philippe is Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738P-001

As we said at the top of this list, dress watches are an inherently rule-abiding lot as typically formal occasions are not the place for your wrist to make a big statement. Given this, the genre is defined by reserved, round watches. But sometimes, it’s the exception that makes the rule, and in this case, we have to mention the exceptional Golden Ellipse from Patek Philippe. Originally created in 1968, the smooth, pebble-like shape of this elegant creation takes its name from the Golden Ratio that underpins the soft curves of its design. Over the years, the singular silhouette of the Golden Ellipse has remained an important — if niche — part of Patek Philippe’s catalogue. This example in platinum dates from 2018 and features a velvety blue dial, simple stick hands, and markers. There’s nothing to distract from the shape — which measures 34.5mm across by 39.5mm tall, and only 5.9mm tall. Truly, this is one of the most iconic dress watches Patek Philippe makes.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 25th Anniversary Ref. 191.066

Until A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Odysseus in 2019, the renowned German watchmaker specialized in dressy, precious metal pieces, all with a decidedly formal aesthetic. Within this catalogue full of gold and platinum, the Lange 1 holds a special place. The model was introduced in 1994 as part of the newly revived brand’s inaugural collection. The deconstructed dial design, with its somber typeface, roman numeral indices, and purity of purpose, was an instant classic and is widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designs. This limited edition white gold Lange 1, with a half-hunter display back, celebrates the 25th anniversary of the relaunched brand. This sort of watch could feel heavy visually but manages not to, thanks to its light silver dial and breezy blue printing. The Lange 1 is a wonderfully versatile watch, but it truly excels as a dress watch.

A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Homage to Walter Lange Jumping Seconds Ref. 297.026 

Glashütte-based A. Lange & Söhne loves doing things the hard way. At first glance, the A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Homage to Walter Lange Jumping Seconds looks like any other 1815 model — one of the brand’s purest expressions of traditional German watchmaking. The 40.5mm white gold case and crisply printed white dial are par for the course, but it’s the pusher in the caseband at two o’clock and the extra seconds hand that hints at something special. That pusher is a way to control the central, stoppable deadbeat seconds. This level of esoteric timekeeping required a new movement, the L1924, which is classically finished and hand-wound. Not many brands would develop a brand new movement for something so left-of-center and it is precisely the fact that Lange did that makes the brand so special.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronometre Ref. PFC423-1601400-HA1441

Founded in 1996, Parmigini Fleurier is a brand that most collectors have slept on since its inception. The increasing popularity of the sporty Tonda line is waking people up to the exceptional quality and craft of the Fleurier-based brand. But if you’re after something that offers a more classical take, the Toric line is the one to look to. This well-sized 40.8mm rose gold watch is full of details that demonstrate why the line is a love letter to classic horology. The fluted bezel, the fine guilloché work on the rotor of the PF 331 calibre and the rich black opaline dial with reserved Arabic hour markers and thoughtful hand design are all nods to the design vision of founder Michel Parmigiani, who is recognized as one of the greatest watchmakers of his generation. If you need further convincing, perhaps the fact that King Charles III of England has worn a Toric chronograph since the early 2000’s will help make up your mind.

Rolex Cellini Date Blue Dial Ref. 50519

Rolex are, of course, the acknowledged masters of the everyday sports watch. The Oyster case and steel bracelet are both iconic and ubiquitous. So when the Crown throws a curveball, it’s always worth paying attention, and this Cellini is something of a curveball. The Cellini line, first introduced in 1968, has always been a more elegant expression of the brand’s watchmaking, home to unusual models like the Midas and the Prince. The most recent expression, produced from 2014 through to this year, utilizes a 39mm precious metal case, double bezel and dial execution that definitely fits the dress watch brief.

The example seen here in white gold exemplifies why the Rolex Cellini is so special. The white gold case, fluted crown, and bezel perfectly complement the deep blue dial with its crisp radial guilloché pattern. As for the date, there’s not a cyclops in sight, as this Cellini makes use of a rare offset pointer date. The fact that Rolex discontinued the Cellini when they announced their new Perpetual 1908 collection makes this uncommon Rolex dress wristwatch even more alluring.

Hermes Slim d’Hermes Quantieme Perpetuel Ref. CA2.810

For a brand best known for high-end handbags, Hermès certainly makes exceptional watches. It’s easy to dismiss more fashion-focused brands as not being serious about their horology offerings, but in this instance, that would be a mistake. The Slim d’Hermès Quantieme Perpetuel is a more complicated take on the time-only Slim d’Hermès, and thanks to the micro-rotor powered automatic H1950 movement with an Agenhor perpetual calendar, the 39.5mm watch lives up to its slim appellation, with a height of around 10mm. What really impresses me about this Hermès is the overall approach to its design. The case feels contemporary, and the dial is crisp and current, helped immensely by the minimalist typeface, custom-designed for Hermès by the celebrated French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig. Quiet luxury is a phrase thrown around a lot at the moment, but this considered calendar lives up to the hype.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine Dial

Aventurine is a wonderful material for dials — the subtle shimmer is guaranteed to bring the party to even the most austere of cases. Dating back to the 15th century, Aventurine is essentially glass with inclusions that typically include gold or copper. H. Moser & Cie has used the material to spectacular effect on this limited edition Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. The dial gives the watch a ‘starry night’ look that is amplified by the fact that the moonphase functionality is the only other focal point. At 42mm across, this stainless steel watch makes quite the statement on the wrist, especially with its attention-grabbing dial, but there’s no denying that it still fits the bill for a dress watch with distinction.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue Ref. LCF036.T1.CG

Conventional wisdom tells us that a dress watch should be gold or platinum. But honestly, when titanium looks as good as it does on this Laurent Ferrier, we’re prepared to bend the rules a little. At 40mm across and 11.1mm tall, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Ref. LCF036.T1.CG is well suited to a wide range of wrists, and the graduated blue dial with striking sector design and white gold hardware is elevated without appearing too formal. The watch is powered by the LF116.01 manual wind caliber, which features grained rhodium-plated bridges that have been given a microblasted black rhodium finish and hand polished edges. Beating at a leisurely 3Hz, and offering 80-hours of power reserve, this fine example of Laurent Ferrier’s craft is simply dreamy.

Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Laurent Ferrier’s pebble-shaped cases are instantly recognizable, and the Galet Classic Enamel Dial is no exception. The 40mm case presents a sinuous silhouette, with every conceivable surface polished to a high gloss. Surprisingly, the dial manages to hold its own in glossiness when compared to the case, thanks to the high sheen afforded by the grand feu enamel. With finely printed hour markers and the brand’s signature ‘assegai’ (a type of spear) handset, the quality and design of this watch is such that it could have been made at any point between 1823 and 2023. For something as timeless as a dress watch, that’s exactly what you want.

Piaget Altiplano 900P Ref. G0A39110 

When watch fans begin to wax lyrical about more formal styles of watches, there’s a good chance the phrase “slips under the cuff” will be used as it is something that bulkier sport watches struggle with. You will have no such issues with the Piaget Altiplano 900P in rose gold seen here. Piaget has long excelled at ultra-thin watchmaking, and until Richard Mille and Bulgari started releasing their own contenders, was the undisputed master of the space. This hand-wound skeleton, for example, measures an incredible 3.65mm thin, thanks partially to the fact that the caseback serves double duty as the movement main plate. On top of that, this Altiplano offers its wearer an unimpeded view of the 900P’s innermost workings.

Breguet Classique Ref. 5140BA/12/9W6

If you’re looking for an unimpeachable dress watch, look no further than the Breguet Classique 5140 in yellow gold. This Swiss made watch has it all. For a formal watch, it’s hard to go past the brand named for the man (Abraham-Louis Breguet) who wrote the rules of watchmaking. On top of that, you get a 40mm yellow gold case with fluted midcase that lives up to the ‘Classique’ name and a guilloché dial that’s anything but dull, with off-centre small seconds and blued Breguet-style hands. On top of all this, you get the added convenience of a modern self-winding automatic caliber (making it one of our favorite automatic watches). The watch is called the Classique for a reason.