The 24 Best GMT Watches to Buy Now

A GMT is often one of the first complications collectors explore when branching out beyond time-only watches. Favored by travelers since the dawn of commercial aviation in the early 1950s, the GMT has remained a fixture due to its ability to simultaneously track multiple time zones. Read through for our complete guide to the GMT, including a brief history, proper use, and our favorite picks at varying price-points. 

A Brief History

Prior to the birth of commercial aviation, there really wasn’t much need for tracking multiple time zones. A watch would simply be set to the local time and then stay there. Even for those traveling by boat, upon arrival, passengers would just reset their watches to the time at the destination. When commercial flight became popular, however, and pilots regularly crossed time zones, issues began to surface. To communicate with air traffic control and safely navigate arrival in a new location, pilots had to be sure that they could reference the time at a destination. To solve this problem, in 1953 Glycine introduced the “Airman”, a timepiece capable of displaying two 24-hour time zones simultaneously (a home time and a local time). 

That said, the birth of the GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) is generally attributed to Rolex, who debuted the original ref. 6542 GMT Master just one year later in 1954. Created specifically for Pan Am pilots, the GMT Master has become the quintessential expression of the complication and has set the standard against which every other brand measures their GMT’s. In addition to a conventional hour hand, the original GMT Master included a 24-hour hand that was wedded to the conventional hour. Thus, at 12 noon, the 24-hour hand would be at 6, and at midnight, it would be at 12. In order to track the second time zone, the wearer would rotate the 24-hour bezel by the number of hours between the local and destination times so that the 24-hour hand pointed to the hour at the destination. 

Modern GMT’s have since evolved, with most employing a 24-hour hand that is no longer tied to the standard hour hand. This seemingly small change means you no longer have to utilize the bezel to track a second time zone and actually allows you to track a third if you do use it.

The ref. 6542 GMT was a tremendous success as a result of its legibility and simple operation, and in the years since, dozens of watch brands have introduced their own versions of the complication. Let’s take a look at some of our favorite GMT models on the market today.

Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” Ref. 126710BLRO

There is no more logical place to begin a compilation of the greatest GMT watches ever made than with the Rolex GMT-Master II in its most classic configuration, the “Pepsi” (sorry Batman fans). The ref. 126710BLRO is Rolex’s most recent take on the design, a clear evolution of the original from 1954. With this latest reference (introduced in 2018), there is more that’s the same than different from previous models, with the conventional Oyster stainless steel case, Jubilee bracelet, classic red and blue bezel, and dial layout. That said, this piece brings a number of contemporary refinements to the table, including a ceramic bezel insert (rather than the scratch-prone aluminum found on the earlier ref. 16710), and the updated caliber 3285 with 70-hours of power reserve. If you are in the market for a classic modern GMT, this is the first place to look, although half of me feels that a collector’s first GMT should always be vintage! Vintage GMT’s have a completely different feel on the wrist, and I think that before buying a 126710BLRO, you may want to look at one of the many vintage offerings that are available. It’s a completely different animal, and it might just be for you. 

Rolex GMT-Master “Pepsi” Ref. 1675

While the modern “Pepsi” might be the most popular GMT on the market, it doesn’t get more classic than a vintage ref. 1675 GMT-Master like this one. The 1675 was produced in various forms from 1959 all the way until 1979/1980, making it one of the longest production runs for a single reference Rolex. Unlike the modern Pepsi, the 1675’s GMT hand was tied to the hour hand. This meant that you could only track two time zones (instead of three) and that setting the second time zone was done using the bidirectional rotating bezel. Beyond the specs and functionality, there is just something incredibly charming about a vintage Rolex, a vintage Pepsi in particular. The faded bezel insert and patinated hands and hour markers are just not something you see on the modern iterations. If you are looking for a GMT with real history and character, it doesn’t get any better than the ref. 1675 Rolex GMT Master “Pepsi”.

Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116748SARU

If you love the classic Pepsi aesthetic, but are looking for a travel watch that is a little more special, a little flashier, the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116748SARU checks all the boxes. The watch features the traditional blue and red bezel colorway, but instead of a ceramic insert, if is made up of brilliant blue sapphires, red rubies and white diamonds. If that wasn’t enough, the watch comes on a full yellow gold Oyster bracelet. Produced between 2010 and 2020, this rare piece sells for well above $100,000 on the secondary market.

Rolex Left-Handed GMT Master II “Destro” Ref. 126720VTNR

Our final selection from Rolex stands out as a true unicorn in the relatively reserved GMT Master collection. The ref. 126720VTNR “Sprite” GMT Master II Destro shocked the luxury watch market when it debuted in 2022 and remains a controversial addition to the collection to this day. Rolex’s choice to target a niche market within the consumer base had broader implications than just making a left-handed variant. In order to reconfigure the crown, the entirety of the movement layout had to be reworked. The date flipped sides and the crown now had to wind the movement from the left side rather than the right. From the exterior, it’s easy to assume reworking a watch is a simple feat, but the reality is entirely different. This is one of the only left-handed or “destro” GMT’s available today (or ever for that matter!), and we think it deserves a place on any assemblage of GMT’s. Perhaps we will see Rolex expand their left-handed offerings in the years to come. Only time will tell.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Moving from mainstream to independent, next up is the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. Parmigiani is a Swiss independent manufacturer that has been making watches since 1996. When the company received the “Watch of the Year” award for their 2006 Bugatti 370 driving watch, it helped catapult the brand into the world of recognizable small-production manufacturers. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante captures the aesthetic of the brand, but with a brilliant mechanical twist. When the GMT function is no longer needed, by pressing the pusher integrated into the crown, the hour hand jumps back to cover over the GMT hand, returning the watch to a typical two-hand display. Parmigiani utilized a mechanism typically found in split-seconds chronographs to develop this unique jumping hand display. This is one of the many reasons why boutique manufacturers are so interesting – they come up with mechanical solutions that mainstream brands would never even dream of!

Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT Ref. 79470

Hailing from the more affordable end of the spectrum, the recently released Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT can best be described as an homage to the Rolex Explorer II. A textured black dial, “fauxtina” lume plots and handset, fixed steel bezel, sapphire crystal and yellow accented GMT hand all help to give this watch strong retro and modern vibes at the same time. Size-wise, the piece is quite contemporary at 39mm in diameter, and it has a strong presence on the wrist. The matte dial finish and optional riveted bracelet tell a different story, harkening back to the days of early Rolex sports models. For around four thousand dollars, this watch provides a lot of value as a dependable GMT with recognizable design and solid construction. And as the Black Bay is a dive watch, you still get 200 meters of water resistance. As with many Tudor watches, this piece has the polarizing snowflake hand, but if you don’t mind that, there’s not much to fault on this one. 

Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT Ref. 79830RB

Before Tudor introduced the Black Bay Pro, the brand’s flagship GMT was the Heritage Black Bay GMT, reference 79830RB. This model was essentially Tudor’s take on the Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” detailed earlier in this post. The red and blue rotating bezel, black dial, and stainless steel bracelet all call to mind the classic look of vintage Pepsi GMT’s. While the look of this watch is quite traditional, there are a number of details that deserve a second look before choosing to buy one of these for yourself. Most importantly, the Heritage Black Bay GMT sports a more sizable 41mm case vs the Black Bay Pro’s 39mm and it certainly feels quite a bit larger on the wrist. When you distill the watch down to its specs, the Heritage Black Bay GMT is quite a compelling option as a lower priced alternative to the GMT Master from Rolex. The fundamental aesthetics are all there, and every year the Black Bay collection just gets more and more popular. 

Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Ref. SBGE277G

Our next pick is not only a great GMT, but also an excellent representation of what Grand Seiko is all about. The Sport Collection GMT reference SBGE277G incorporates Grand Seiko’s beloved spring drive technology, featuring both the mechanics of a conventional automatic movement and the accuracy afforded by a quartz regulator. In addition to the movement, the hand engraved and painted dial is another highlight. Between the movement, the dial, and the elegant Zaratsu polished case, this watch has all of the features that are distinctively Grand Seiko. As is the common complaint for Grand Seiko, the only part of the watch that leaves me wanting a bit is the bracelet. I think the brand could benefit from a bit more attention to this component’s design, but it really is a minor complaint compared to the rest of the piece. Even given the sporty design, there’s an underlying sophistication to the watch that would make it right at home even in a dressier setting. 

Grand Seiko Hi Beat 36000 GMT Peacock SBGJ227

Our second Grand Seiko pick, the Ref. SBGJ227G Hi Beat 36000 GMT “Peacock” is a bit more traditional in terms of look and feel. There’s no doubt that the Spring Drive movement represents one of the more significant strides in mechanical watchmaking in the last 50 years, but that said, many purists find the movement to be too progressive. While I personally appreciate the Spring Drive, there are plenty of collectors that disagree with me. Grand Seiko offers something to these collectors as well though. The brand has developed a “Hi Beat” line of movements, which feature a higher beat frequency (10 beats per second) over the slower traditional movements. This has the effect of making for a smoother seconds hand operation. The SBGJ227 Peacock combines the Hi Beat technology with one of Grand Seiko’s beautifully engraved dials. The watch also features the classic hallmarks of the Japanese brand’s fine finishing and craftsmanship, including micro-faceted indexes and sporty dauphine hands. Featuring a fixed bezel with no insert or scale, this piece is a bit less sport and a bit more everyday friendly than our previous pick. These Grand Seiko’s represent two of the best GMT’s the brand has ever produced and remain excellent options for collectors of all kinds. 

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso GMT Ref. 302.84.20

A personal favorite of mine, the Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso GMT Ref. 302.84.20 boasts not only a GMT complication but a number of others as well. The first time zone, aperture date, day/ night indicator, and subsidiary seconds are all displayed on the main dial. The reverse side features the second time zone, GMT, secondary day/night indicator, and power reserve. Both dials are intricately finished with guilloché on the front side, and an Art Deco sector style on the reverse dial. What makes this and many other JLC models so compelling, is that the brand is arguably the most undervalued fine watchmaker, affording serious complications at an accessible price point. The sheer number of functions present on this piece is mind boggling. Plus, the Reverso is an iconic design recognizable to any collector. The Reverso ref. 302.84.20 is a great option if you are looking for a GMT with a little bit more going on.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy Seals Ref. Q178T471

While Jaeger LeCoultre is certainly known as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker”, perhaps it should also be known as the Navy Seals’ watchmaker. In the early 2000’s, JLC made a number of limited edition watches for the US Navy Seals, including this Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT (limited to 500 pieces). While the watch is a larger 46mm in diameter, it is incredibly light due to its titanium case construction. The piece features a black dial and ceramic bezel giving it a very rugged and utilitarian design. Additionally, it also features a tri-register chronograph and GMT complication. The dark GMT hand blends in with the dial a bit, so there are some legibility issues. However, the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph GMT Navy Seals offers a lot of bang for your buck, as a GMT, a diver and a chronograph all rolled into one.

Blancpain Villeret Reveil GMT Alarm Ref. 6640-1127-SSB

We’ve featured Blancpain’s Villeret model line in the past, but the GMT Alarm reference 6640-1127-SSB offers an interesting combination of complications that you aren’t likely to find elsewhere at such an attractive price. This piece in particular offers not only a GMT function, but a power reserve, date, and alarm as well. Perhaps the best thing about this piece is that in spite of the complications, the watch maintains an unusually simple and legible aesthetic. The serpentine GMT hand points to an inner 24-hour scale and adds a little bit of panache to the design that I really appreciate. From a wearability standpoint, at 40mm and 12mm thick, the watch will be a comfortable fit on most wrists. Given its mix of class and playfulness, the Blancpain Villeret Reveil GMT Alarm is a great option for those looking for a slightly left of center GMT on the dressier side. 

Blancpain Le Brassus Complete Calendar GMT Ref. 4276-3642-55B

Next up on the list is an excellent vintage-inspired complete calendar from Blancpain. The Ref. 4276-3642-55B Le Brassus Complete Calendar GMT is certainly a dressy watch, but it borrows its layout and aesthetic from some of its vintage predecessors. Housed in an 18k rose gold case, the Complete Calendar GMT boasts a pointer date and moon phase displays, adding a little extra complication to the mix. Like the Villeret Reveil GMT Alarm, the GMT track is displayed in a central 24-hour ring on the dial. The other point of interest is the case profile, which features a double stepped ogee (once again a nod to older references), polished through the midcase and onto the caseback. You get a lot for your money with this model plus the functionality of the GMT.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Ref. 103467

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has garnered something next to a cult following since it was first released back in 2014. The collection features an extremely unique case and bracelet design, both of which are extremely thin (a few models from the the collection are some of the thinnest mechanical watches in the world). The reference 103467 Chronograph GMT, is one of our favorite variations of the Octo Finissimo. The watch couples a chronograph and secondary time zone function located within the 3 o’clock subdial. At 8.75mm thick, you would be hard-pressed to find a thinner mechanical chronograph on the market, let alone one with a GMT function as well. To achieve this level of thinness, Bulgari uses a peripheral rotor to power the self-winding mechanism. The ref. 103467 has a sunburst blue dial with white subdials, creating a unique and attractive reverse-panda-style dial . If you are a looking for a modern icon to add to your collection, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is a great choice. 

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph GMT 43 Ref. 231.13.43.52.03.001

If you are in the market for a versatile tool watch, Omega offers quite the selection. Relatively simple and concise in its design language, the Aqua Terra line has always stood out as a toned down diver. Unlike its competitor, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the main benefit of these Aqua Terra models is that they are still relatively affordable. While almost any Aqua Terra can be found for under $10k (outside of precious metal models), they still offer a solid Swiss-made movement, consistent reliability, and Omega’s pedigree. The Aqua Terra is an excellent watch to start a watch collection with. Like the Bulgari discussed previously, this Ref. 231.13.43.52.03.001 Aqua Terra is a compound GMT and chronograph with automatic winding. It’s attractive, functional and a solid buy at right around $5,000.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black GMT 600M Co-Axial Ref. 215.92.46.22.01.002

Now if you’re looking to make a statement with your GMT, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black GMT is a great option. Omega has recently started to experiment with mixed materials on their watches, leading us to the Deep Black which offers a Ceramic Zirconium Dioxide case, Zirconium Dioxide bezel, black dial, and a kevlar/rubber strap. Blue accents are scattered throughout as the only flashes of color on the monochromatic watch. This piece has a sizable 45.5mm diameter which may be prohibitive for some, but that said, for those with larger wrists, this is a great option. Omega offers a high performance watch (water resistant to 600 meters!) with contemporary aesthetics readily available as a standard production model. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black GMT 600M Co-Axial Ref. 215.92.46.22.01.002 is a mouthful, but a pretty compelling package nonetheless!

Breitling Navitimer B04 GMT Chronograph Ref. AB0441211G1X1

Besides the original Rolex GMT Master, there is probably no pilot’s watch more famous than Breitling’s Navitimer. Developed in the early 1950’s at the request of the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the model was designed to be a wrist-worn instrument that would enable pilots to perform any of the in-flight calculations they might need to make to remain aloft. This ref. AB0441211G1X1 Navitimer B04 GMT Chronograph is quite large at 48mm, but packs a whole lot of utility into that case. Besides chronograph and GMT functions, the Navitimer also includes a slide rule bezel, allowing pilots to make quick calculations on the fly (literally). Overall, the Navitimer B04 GMT Chrono is not only one of our favorite pilot’s watches but one of our favorite GMT’s as well.

Panerai Luminor 1950 8-Day GMT Ref. PAM00289

Many collectors think of Panerai’s just as large watches with simple dials, but in reality, the brand actually offers quite the array of complications in their lineup. The ref. PAM00289 Luminor 1950 8-Day GMT may be manually wound, but it is equipped with the brand’s famous in-house Caliber P2002 which offers an 8-day power reserve. This Luminor sticks to the brand’s standard design brief (the original is an icon after all) but also incorporates a GMT complication. Interestingly, both the seconds and the GMT hands are located in the 9 o’clock subdial, something we don’t often see. Limited to just 200 pieces in rose gold, this GMT is perfect for someone looking for that bulky Panerai aesthetic.

Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT Ref. PAM01096

Continuing with the “Panerai’s-are-more-than-just-big-simple-watches” theme, the Luminor Luna Rossa GMT PAM01096 is next on our list. This piece has a Scafotech dial and a Carbotech bezel. What is Scafotech and what is Carbotech? Well, Scafotech is a proprietary material made out of carbon fiber residue sourced from the hulls and hydrofoils of the Luna Rossa AC75 yacht. Carbotech is a bonded carbon material made from multiple layers of carbon fiber stacked on top of one another and bound together to form a single solid piece. These new and experimental materials make for an interesting, almost futuristic, design aesthetic. Unlike the previous Panerai on this list, the Luminor Luna Rossa GMT has a central GMT hand. While the subsidiary GMT hand is interesting, the central GMT on this watch is a bit more legible. Coming in at a 42mm case size and limited to just 250 pieces, this watch is perfect for someone looking for Panerai’s bold design aesthetic in a more reasonably sized case.

Breguet Tradition GMT Ref. 7067BB/G1/9W6

Moving from a large sports watch to a contemporary dress design from Breguet, the Tradition GMT reference 7067BB offers a lot of visual interest that captures the eye. The watch features a “Souscription” inspired bridge layout and dial design that pays homage to pocket watches manufactured by Louis Breguet himself in the 18th century. In addition to the time display on the guilloché subdial at 12, the 7067 has an asymmetrical GMT display located at 8 o’clock, and a day/night indicator just above at 9. We have always been a champion of Breguet watches here at EWC, and think that the finishing quality on both the dials and movement surpasses that of almost all watches in the price category. What we like so much about this piece, and the Tradition line in general, is the way it fuses the classic and contemporary. While the hands, subdials, text and leather strap are all classic Breguet, the sandblasted, openworked movement is decidedly more modern. If you are looking for a watch that seamlessly blends modern and classic, check out the Breguet Tradition GMT Ref. 7067. 

Urban Jurgensen One Collection GMT Ref. 5541

Urban Jurgensen is an example of a name in the watchmaking industry that hasn’t yet gained widespread recognition among collectors. THE Urban Jurgensen was a Danish clockmaker who lived in the 18th century. After he passed away, one of his sons, Jules Jurgensen, carried on his father’s legacy, and the brand, in Switzerland. The company is still making watches today under the tutelage of industry fixture Kari Voutilainen. Modern Urban Jurgensen pieces are incredibly high quality (especially given their price points) and while most of the watches are elegant dress pieces with intricately finished dials, they also produce a number of interesting sportier pieces. The One Collection GMT ref. 5541 is the brand’s integrated bracelet GMT and deserves some real attention. In addition to the time, the 5541 offers the date and a 24-hour GMT, paired with a wave guilloché dial and a very well executed bracelet. I actually feel that this bracelet is one of the best in the industry based on fit and finish and the fact that the design is actually unique. If you are a fan of independent watchmakers and want to add a GMT to your collection, check out the Urban Jurgensen One Collection GMT Ref. 5541.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT Ref. 26589IO.OO.D002CA.01

Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch is unsurprisingly the iconic Royal Oak. While the brand has expanded the collection to include different sizes, case materials and complications, none are more exciting than the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT. Measuring 44mm in diameter and featuring a block-like titanium case, the watch includes two main complications, a flying tourbillon, and a GMT. What makes the GMT function on this piece unique, and therefore the reason it is included in the list, is the wheel system that displays the hour on a rotating disc rather than using a hand. This unusual 24-hour display features two 12-hour halves that are color-coded for day and night. While this “Concept” model is not for everyone (especially the purists who love Genta’s original design), it is a great showcase for a brand that regularly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. It is always great to see a historical brand like Audemars Piguet taking risks and pushing the limits of horology to see just how far they can go.

De Bethune DB3 GMT Dual-Time

De Bethune is another independent watchmaker that has risen to fame in recent years following the surge of interest in boutique manufacturers. With this increased attention, collectors have revisited earlier De Bethune models, many of which have a more classical aesthetic than the recent avant-garde collections. The DB3 Dual-Time GMT is a great example featuring Breguet-esque hands, a guilloché dial, and traditional Roman numeral indices. Additionally, a GMT dual time function sits at 6 o’clock and there are power reserve and moonphase indicators at 12. As De Bethune gets more and more popular as a brand, we expect these early classics to become incredibly popular. Prices have already begun to rise, so if you see one, buy it!

Chopard L.U.C. GMT Limited Edition Ref. 16/1867

Strikingly similar in layout and design to the previous De Bethune pick, this limited edition white gold Chopard L.U.C. GMT ref. 16/1867 is a dress interpretation of a classic GMT complication. Because GMTs are more often found on sport watches, it is always nice to see one incorporated into a more reserved dress watch. The 16/1867 features a blue guilloché inner dial and dual-colored (for night and day) GMT subdial at 6 o’clock. A Limited edition of 1,860 examples in white gold, if you are looking for a slim and modestly sized (38mm) dress watch with GMT functionality, the Chopard L.U.C. GMT Ref. 16/1867 is a great option.