8 Great Pieces from Independent Watchmakers

It is sometimes hard for collectors to see beyond legacy brands such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. But there is so much more fine watchmaking out there, especially from independent watchmakers. In this watch guide, we take a look at 8 of our favorite watch from some of the best independent watchmakers.

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Ref. DB25VTIS3

Price: $73,000-$78,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 8.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Titanium

De Bethune is an independent watchmaker that does not try to be anything other than itself. You can see this in the designs of all of their pieces. While they all share a common thread or DNA, there are some De Bethunes that adhere to more classical design aesthetics and some that are more avant-garde and futuristic. The DB25 Starry Varius is definitely more classic in style, but we still love it. The center of the dial features a celestial chart that allows the wearer to see the nighttime sky in the northern hemisphere, indicating the movement of the stars and moon. A very cool feature on a watch that otherwise is more classical in execution.

Check out our review of the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius here.

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe

Price: $73,000-$78,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 8.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Titanium

Greubel Forsey timepieces are unobtainable grails for most of us. Their sky-high prices are only matched by their beautiful designs and masterful engineering. And the GMT Balancier Convexe is no exception. The watch features an escapement mounted at 30 degrees and a large titanium globe that effectively allows you to tell the time at any location on the globe. Beyond the superior engineering is a beautifully futuristic case design that allows the watch to fit nicely to your wrist, even given its large size. There’s not much to dislike about the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe.

Check out our review of the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe here.

F.P. Journe Vertical Tourbillon Souverain Platinum

Price: $390,000-$410,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: Platinum

The biggest criticism with tourbillon wristwatches is that they are completely unnecessary. The tourbillon was meant to counteract the effects of gravity on pocket watch that was always in the same position. Since wristwatches are worn on your wrist and constantly in motion, the conventional tourbillion is not needed. That’s why F.P. Journe created the Vertical Tourbillon Souverain. Since most watch owners keep their piece flat on a surface or on their side when not being worn, the vertically mounted tourbillon allows the tourbillon to rotate in a fashion that allows gravity to act evenly on the balance in either of these positions. Finally, we have a tourbillon that is actually useful!

Check out our review of the F.P. Journe Vertical Tourbillon Souverain here.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual

Price: $170,000-$190,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.1mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual Winding, Material: White Gold

MB&F is known for creating some of the most unique, out there designs (mostly in their Horological Machine collection). But the more restrained Legacy Machine collection is nothing to scoff at. Just take the Legacy Machine Perpetual. The watch’s movement is completely openworked, with all the perpetual calendar’s inner workings on full display. And the brand’s signature flying balance wheel is front and center in the middle of the watch. The Legacy Machine Perpetual is clearly no typical watch, even if it is housed in the trappings of a relative restrained case design.

Check out our review of the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual here.

Vianney Halter Antiqua Perpetual Calendar

Price: $260,000-$270,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Platinum

Vianney Halter might be considered the original independent watchmaker. Having produced his first timepiece in 1998, he is the standard by which the rest of the community is often compared. And the Vianney Halter Antiqua Perpetual Calendar is a prime example of the special pieces the brand produces. The case is beautifully steampunk, with its multiple porthole dials. But all the dials are there for a reason. Each displays a different part of the perpetual calendar, including the time, day, date, month or leap year. Splitting this all out into different dials not only makes the watch very unique aesthetically, but one of the most legible perpetual calendars you can buy.

Check out our review of the Vianney Halter Antiqua here.

Urwerk UR-120 “Spock”

Price: $70,000-$80,000, Case Size: 47mm, Thickness: 15.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44mm, Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium

If you are looking for something truly out of this world, you should probably pick up a watch from Urwerk. Known for creating some of the most visual interesting watches, Urwerk’s watches are incredibly futuristic and tell time in exciting new ways. The Urwerk UR-120 “Spock” for example tells time by three rotating, wandering hour markers making their way to the minutes dial, to easily tell the wearer the time. It truly looks like something you’d see on Star Trek, and so the nickname makes a ton of sense.

Check out our review of the Urwerk UR-120 Spock here.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Vantablack Tourbillon

Price: $41,000-$45,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.7mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel DLC

What is Vantablack? Well it is the darkest man-made material, technically darker than black. It is so dark that it absorbs 99.965% of surrounding light. In the case of the Moser Endeavour Vantablack Tourbillon, the result is a gorgeously deep black dial. And the fact that everything, from the case to the dial to the strap is black, makes the much lighter openworked tourbillon so special. While the dial is truly mesmerizing, the tourbillon becomes the only point of light on this watch.

Check out our review of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Vantablack Tourbillon here.

Czapek Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante Ice Blue

Price: $36,000-$39,000, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 15.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 120M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Stainless Steel

Who doesn’t love an integrated bracelet watch with a beautifully openworked dial. That’s what you get with the Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante by independent Czapek. People will sometimes compare the Czapek Antarctique’s design to the Royal Oak. And while there are similarities, it is different enough to stand on its own. And the brand’s rattrapante is just stunning. The mixture of steel and dark bridges and parts and ice blue detailing adds a ton of visual interest to the watch. It is truly something unique for the collector looking to get into an up-and-coming independent brand.

Check out our review of the Czapek Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante Ice Blue.