25 of the Best Perpetual Calendar Watches to Take You to the Year 2100 (and Beyond!)
Buyers GuidesPublished by: Scarlett Baker
View all posts by Scarlett BakerWho remembers wall calendars? Better question, who actually uses one anymore? In the year 2024, they are relics of a not-so-distant past. It’s high time we turn back to our watches to track the days and weeks of the year, to one of the most complicated complications out there: the Perpetual Calendar.
Monday’s are bleak. Even bleaker when your smart watch is telling you you’re only two hours into the work week, you got 4 hours of quality sleep the night before, and you’ve somehow only taken 17 steps. In the interest of simplifying things, let’s complicate them (horologically that is) and take a look at some of the best Perpetual Calendar watches (from the best watch brands) to kickstart or continue your collection. No need to fear the leap year either as there are watches aplenty that will take you all the way through to the year 2100.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940J
Rather than list off 3,940 reasons why you should have a Patek perpetual calendar in your collection, we’ll let its history alone do the talking. Patek Philippe patented the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1889 and the 3940 takes the crown as one of their most renowned examples to date. Released in 1985, this comfortable 36mm yellow gold offering with beautiful white dial was way ahead of its time – and revolutionary too – given that the mechanical marvel was released in the wake of the quartz crisis. Slender and deceptively simple at first glance, it’s a grail for any calendar collector out there.
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5496P
There’s nothing quite as lively and interesting on a watch dial as a retrograde display, reminding you that time really isn’t always as linear as it seems. When the 5496P was launched in 2011, Patek Philippe shook up the game by departing from the typical three subdial layout (for day, date, and month), utilizing apertures at 3, 12, and 9 o’clock instead and a retrograde date display that spans from 8 to 4. Complete with a platinum case and moonphase display, it’s not hard to see why so many love the ref. 5496P. And if you’re in search for something über-rare, look out for the blue dial.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-014
In what proved to be another stellar year for Patek Philippe in 2022, the brand released the stunning 5270P-014 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with a distinctive green dial. The perpetual calendar is one of the hardest grand complications to create, but Patek Philippe has mastered the art (and then some) making it a true signature of the brand. Crafted from the most precious of metals: platinum, the 5270P-014 features a concave bezel, ornate two-tier lugs, and is a timepiece that embodies the immensity of the brand’s dedication to top-tier perpetual calendars. For us though, its really all about the lacquered green dial!
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001
Gradient dials are in (see the 5270p-014 above…), and this 5236P In-Line Perpetual is another Patek masterpiece that deserves a spot your collection. Based on a vintage pocket watch design, the day, date and month are centrally located in a long aperture at 12 o’clock, almost like a flip clock within a watch. Housed in a 41mm platinum case, the piece is powered by a newly-developed self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QL in-house movement with 48-hours of power reserve and small seconds at 6. For those looking for a modern classic with ties to vintage Patek designs, check out the Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740/1G-001
If platinum isn’t your thing and you prefer a sportier style, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G-001 might be just what you’re looking for. The first of its kind when it comes to the Genta-designed Nautilus, this automatic luxury watch with 60 meters of water resistance, takes the title of Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual calendar. And while we typically see this complication on dressier watches, the 5740 is the ultimate example of when worlds collide.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5020G-014
If you are looking for something outside of the box from Patek Philippe, the Ref. 5020G is an interesting piece. The 5020G shocked the watch world back in the 90’s with its not quite square, not quite round case shape. The collecting public was fairly skeptical, which is exactly what gives this timepiece its allure today. Call the shape what you will (cushion, tonneau, square), the 5020’s Lemania based calibre and applied white gold Breguet numerals on a silver dial establish the model as one of Patek Phillippe’s more enigmatic entries into the perpetual calendar category.
MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Ref. 03.WL.B
How do you carve out a legacy? According to Max Büsser and MB&F’s watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell, it takes exactly 581 components. The master of ethereal looking mechanical watches, MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual offers a fully skeletonized dial-side perpetual calendar with a bespoke 14mm flying balance wheel on top of the movement, just to top it all off. In an effort to eliminate the possibility of skipping dates or jamming gears, the piece relies on a complex mechanism that creates a 28-day month with extra days added when required so you don’t need to skip over any redundant calendar setting. MB = Max Büsser, but this perpetual calendar makes a case for MB = mind blown.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 4300V/120B-B945
One of the most versatile pieces on this list, you could call the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin a multi-hyphenate model. Debuting just two years ago, the the white gold/blue dial variant has quickly become an icon of the Overseas collection. Bearing the line’s unique Maltese Cross bezel (a subtle nod to the VC logo) and perpetual calendar and moonphase complications all within the space of 41.5mm, this one is a wearable delight. With polished beveled edges and an ultra thin 8mm in thickness, it’s another sporty approach to a perpetual calendar (similar to the Nautilus Ref. 5740 discussed earlier). It’s smart, tasteful, and proves that there is a place to add complications like a perpetual calendar to tried and true designs.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 30020
The perpetual calendar complication is one of the most challenging in watchmaking, but the minute repeater is even tougher. Put the two together in one watch and you’ve arguably created a piece of horological perfection. A grail for any collector, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is deceiving in its simple appearance. Underneath the dial, however, is an engine of serious magnitude, and it’s all packed into a case that is just 37mm in diameter and 9.5mm thick. With its gold accents, teardrop lugs and sleek silver dial, it’s a unique piece that boasts a classic design that flies way under the radar. It doesn’t get much better than this!
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar “Rodeo Drive” Limited Edition Ref. IW503001
IWC is probably best known for its pilot watches, and while you might not expect to see a complication like a perpetual calendar in a big, utilitarian pilot watch, feast your eyes on the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar IW503001. All 46.5mm of it! Mechanically programmed to accurately track the date for 500+ years, the IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar “Rodeo Drive” LE is a bolder and more informal approach to the perpetual calendar, which is why we love it. With a mammoth 7-day power reserve, a moon phase display at 12 o’clock that shows both the northern and southern hemispheres (with little white airplanes to indicate which is which), and a four digit year aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock, the Ref. IW503001 is a great choice if you are looking for a bold and sporty perpetual.
Blancpain Leman Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 2685F-3630-53B
Originally conceived in the 1990s, the Blancpain Leman Chronograph Perpetual Calendar has evolved since its conception, including an increase in size from 38mm to 40mm. If you’re in the market for something a little punchy, this Blancpain is a great choice, with its rose gold case, black dial, faceted hands and indices, and luminous dots that decorate the edge of the dial in line with the hour markers. An illustrated addition of a smiling moon sweeps across at 6 o’clock, while the three subdials take center stage, enclosed by a double ring bezel. The Leman Chrono Perpetual is a testament to the fact that sometimes more is more, and we’re not mad about it.
A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Chronograph Ref. 740.036
While we love the classic chrono-only Datograph, this version featuring a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and a tourbillon is truly a work of art. Created in 2016, it was the first time Lange had paired the three complications. The now-discontinued model is a perpetual calendar designed for collectors who revel in the minutiae of detail. Housed in a 41.9mm case, the solid silver dial is jam packed with information including an outsize date, calendar function, moonphase, chronograph, day/night indicator, power-reserve indicator, and of course, a day display. Encompassing what feels like the entire horological glossary in one watch, this manually wound model, limited to 100 lucky wrists, is truly a grail for collectors.
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna Ref. 180.026
If a watch ever truly proved that watchmaking is art (to the non-believers that is), it’s the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna. With three overlapping rings printed onto the dial, like a horological Venn Diagram, the dial pays homage to the regulator design of high-precision scientific clocks, splitting the typical display of the perpetual calendars into three sub dials. Powered by a manually wound movement with a staggering 336-hour power reserve , the piece de resistance of this 45.5mm timepiece is the orbital moon-phase display hidden on the caseback decorated with ornate clusters of stars. Art for the wrist!
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition Ref. 345.056E
Many consider Lange’s Perpetual Calendar models to be the unsung heroes of the perpetual calendar club. And we agree, the models deserve far more love and attention than they get, particularly the Ref. 345.056E. This beautiful piece features a distinctive 18k pink gold dial, applied white gold Roman numeral and diamond-shaped markers, and a white gold case. But what this limited model should be lauded for is its unconventional use of space, from its patented big date aperture to its off-centered moon phase, and retrograde day display. It’s the perfect fit for those enamored by heritage with a twist.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 26586IP
When it comes to horological greatness, Gerald Genta will never not be on the list. And if you want an incredibly special piece sporting Genta’s Royal Oak case, then check out AP’s perpetual calendar Ref. 26586IP. It was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch when it was released in 2019 with a movement that is just 2.89mm thick. Amalgamating titanium and high-grade platinum to create a lighter feel on the wrist, it’s an easy wear for pretty much anyone.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Aventurine Ref. 26394BC.OO.D027KB.01
When you think of Audemars Piguet, like the rest of the world, you probably think of the Royal Oak. There is more to AP than this one iconic watch though! If you are in search of something a little different from the manufacture “born in Le Brassus”, check out the white gold Code 11:59 Perpetual Calendar, with beautiful, starry aventurine dial. But you won’t just get lost amongst the stars with this watch. While the dial gives off the illusion of a circular shape, the middle case is octagonal (perhaps in reference to the Royal Oak…) with delicate satin and high-polished surfaces and the crystal has a unique domed, double curved shape. These details are often lost if the watch is only seen in photographs making the Code 11:59 Perpetual Calendar a watch that truly has to be seen in person to appreciate.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6812-1200
Experts in understatement, if you’re in pursuit of a little quiet luxury, then Moser’s Streamliner will most certainly fit the bill. Pairing the magnitude of a perpetual calendar with the subtlety of Moser’s design ethos means that the Streamliner is a perfect symphony of sleekness. A comfortable stainless steel integrated bracelet and the incredibly simple perpetual calendar display makes this Streamliner a signature piece that offers a truly unique take on the complication.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Ref. Q130842J
While Jaeger-LeCoultre is best known for their iconic rectangular Reverso, the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar also deserves some serious recognition. Looking for classic understated elegance? This 39mm timepiece with its chic, silver dial, moonphase and 4-digit year displays, and alligator strap, is just the right size for sliding under your shirt cuff. A boutique exclusive, the model’s design is classic in the best way and reminds us of old-school models from Patek and Vacheron. With an MSRP in the mid-$20’s (and a secondary market price far below that), if you’re looking for some serious bang for buck, look no further!
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar Ref. Q9088180
Perpetual calendars demand careful attention and can be somewhat cumbersome for those not invested in keeping their watch set. For those committed to keeping their watch running though, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Perpetual Calendar technology requires no manual correction until the year 2100. And by that point, we’re pretty sure it’s your grandchildren’s problem, not yours! Paying tribute to all things astronomical, the Polaris Perpetual Calendar summons the sky to your wrist with a graduated blue dial and day/night indicators. Boasting a sporty and modern design, it’s not your typical JLC, making it the perfect perpetual calendar for those looking for a unique and sporty piece from the legendary brand.
F.P. Journe Octa Quantieme Perpetual Calendar
The dials of traditional perpetual calendars can tend towards clutter and information overload, but the F.P Journe Octa Quantieme Perpetual is blissfully free from overcrowding. Journe chose to prioritize the watch’s primary function (indicating the hours and minutes), with the day, date and month feeling like a kind, unobtrusive addition. The omission of a moonphase means that if you’re not so fussed about selenography (go ahead and look it up, we’ll wait), you will appreciate this model for its less is more mantra, all while still knowing your days of the week.
F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier
All F.P. Journe models carry the hallmarks of their creator and namesake, and just like Francois Paul himself, they’re all just a little bit funky! Only 99 of this special limited edition Octa Calendrier were produced in ruthenium, and the model has become a true grail for Journe collectors worldwide. Created as part of a series from 2001-2004, it was the first time Journe had upsized the Octa Calandrier by 2mm to a larger 40mm case. Featuring a retrograde date display, day and month apertures, and iconic FPJ offset hours, minutes, and seconds, it might prove a bit difficult to track down one of these unicorns, but if you manage to get your hands on an Octo Calendrier, never let it go.
Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. S37.5632.0
The big, brash Roger Dubuis models of today are the antithesis of dainty and bear little resemblance to earlier pieces from the Swiss brand. Hailing from the earlier chapters of Dubuis’ watchmaking story, the Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar boasts a retrograde approach to the perpetual calendar’s functions, with the added charm of avant-garde typography on a white lacquer dial. It’s a milestone in the brand’s history and its eccentric approach to telling the time can actually be seen in Roger Dubuis’ identity today: busy, but purposeful.
Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3310BA
Breguet’s ref. 3310BA Classique Perpetual Calendar proves that classics need not be simple, unembellished wallflowers. From hobnail textures, to multiple patterns of guilloche engraving, there’s a symphony of craftsmanship going on here that is almost impossible to take in at first glance. The story unfolds as you look deeper, with seven different indications included on the dial, all housed in a 36mm case, emphasized by a discreetly slim bezel. With a coin edge detail around the case band pulling it all together, the 3310BA is a lesson in the intricacies of embellishment, putting the “hot” in haute horology.
De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar Ref. DB25QPATIS4
If you’re easily irked by asymmetry, consider De Bethune’s unique interpretation of the perpetual calendar complication. Offering a well proportioned, and unexpectedly quieter approach, the DB25QP seen here still features seven different indicators all set in its green hand-guilloche dial. Stealing the show is the moonphase display, executed using a three dimensional spherical ball that is made of palladium coated in black oxide zirconium that rotates amidst a sea of gold stars. And with 2024 being a leap year, keep an eye out for the gold pastille indicator that appears in the starry sky just below the moon.
Cartier Tortue XL Perpetual Calendar Ref. W1580003
Sift through the archives of Cartier and you’ll discover watches with designs that exceed even your wildest imagination. So before you start thinking about whether to Santos or not to Santos, consider the Cartier Tortue XL, for its skeletonized – I repeat – SKELETONIZED showcase of the perpetual calendar. At 41mm (albeit with a smaller feel on the wrist given its tonneau shape) this 18k rose gold creation pushes the capabilities of the dial to the limit, exposing the network of engineering underneath the hours, minutes, day, date and month. You might think Cartier is just a jewelry brand, and that’s fine. It just means more incredible watches for us!
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