The 8 Best Rainbow Watches at European Watch Company

In the last ten years, the watch space has seen a number of trends. From Tiffany signatures to salmon or green dials, luxury watch brands have driven the latest tastes of the industry. One of the most famous trends of the last few years has been rainbow watches. Popularized by Rolex’s Rainbow Daytona, Rolex isn’t the only brand to utilize a rainbow theme. Today, we are taking a look at EWC’s favorite rainbow watches. 

Rolex Rainbow Daytona Ref. 116595RBOW

Price: $400,000-$425,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Rose Gold

Arguably the watch that started it all for the rainbow trend, the Rolex 116595 “Rainbow” Daytona, executed in rose gold, started as a watch Rolex really struggled to sell. Offered to only the highest end customers of the brand, the exclusive Daytona featured a rainbow baguette bezel and hour markers, meteorite subsidiary dials, and diamond-set lugs (in a rose gold case). Many collectors laughed at this watch until demand for these pieces surged. This exceptional timepiece is as striking in appearance as its gem settings are precise.  All told, it’s one of the most desirable Rolexes on the market.

Rolex Day-Date President Rainbow Ref. 128238-0051

Price: $65,000-$75,000, Case Size: 36mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Yellow Gold

I’ve always held a special place in my heart for exclusive Rolex Day-Dates. The reference 128238-0051 extends the rainbow theme to the Day-Date, but in the traditional 36mm sizing. This reference features rainbow hour markers, and a full pave dial, alongside a traditional Day-Date case and bracelet. To me, the interplay between a flashy dial and a far more reserved case sizing works extremely well. For a slightly more under the radar Rolex Rainbow (only slightly), this is the way to go. 

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 116695SATS

Price: $100,000-$125,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: N/A, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

This last Rolex I would argue is the most striking. Unlike the previous pieces which assemble sapphires in a gradient around the dial to form the rainbow, in the case of the Yacht Master 116695SATS, this piece has the precious gems set in an alternating pattern that causes far more pop on the bezel. The gemstones themselves are unconventional in assortment as well: 38 sapphires, 8 tsavorites, and 1 diamond. The rose gold watch has a black dial with applique rose gold lume plots that add further contrast to the piece.  Altogether, this assemblage generates one of the most scintillating Rolexes ever made.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R

Price: $300,000-$350,000, Case Size: 39.9mm, Thickness: 10.37mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

This next piece comes from Patek Philippe’s contemporary collection. The Aquanaut “Luce” Rainbow Chronograph, reference 7968/300R-001 is one of Patek’s most desirable Aquanaut variations. Fashioned from rose gold with a rainbow bezel and markers, this piece features a double layer of baguettes on the bezel– the outer in rainbow tones, and the inner in white. The watch itself is quite capable, featuring a flyback chronograph function. Together there’s a really interesting contrast between the sporty complication and collection, and the chic jewelry vibe perpetuated by a sapphire bezel. This is certainly one of Patek’s modern masterpieces. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Rainbow” Ref. 15413BC

Price: $280,000-$290,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 9.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.7mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: White Gold

Audemars Piguet’s take on the rainbow theme, the reference 15413BC is not a quiet watch. Fashioned entirely from white gold, the watch features multi-layered diamonds, from a pave dial, to baguette applied hour markers, to square cut sapphires on the bezel. This is an extremely rare watch to find as a factory piece from AP. This particular exclusive edition was released in 2019/ 2020 and was only extended to the most exclusive clients of Audemars Piguet. 

H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow 

Price: $150,000-$175,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 12.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 12ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Rose Gold

Lover of complications, but still looking for a playful Rainbow spin? The Moser Streamliner Tourbillon is likely your best option. With over 60 sapphires cut in varying sizes to fit the Streamliner bezel, this piece is a work of fine jewelry setting in addition to its high horology prowess. Automatic winding with a tourbillon set on a vantablack dial, this piece is stunning. The Streamliner base family is chock full of interesting details on its own, with a unique bracelet and case architecture. Together, this piece will keep your eyes on your wrist throughout the day.  

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition “Rainbow” 

Price: $10,000-$12,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel

Our first diver on the list, the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 “Rainbow” was limited to 250 pieces in stainless steel. This unique diver was intended to take the look and feel of a vintage Breitling tool watch and modernize it. And modernized it is. A contemporary sizing, modern materials, and rainbow markers make this piece stand on the opposite end of the spectrum from a classic Breitling piece. And that’s a part of this watch’s appeal. 100 meters water resistant, the fish will be jealous of this watch.

Zenith Defy Classic Rainbow Titanium Ref. 32.9003.670/86.R588

Price: $20,000-$22,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 14.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.6mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 3ATM, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Winding, Material: Titanium

This next piece is somewhat of a paradox. On the one hand, it’s fashioned from titanium, an incredibly utilitarian material to choose, one typically paired with a hard core tool watch (indeed, this piece has an in-house El Primero movement). Similarly, the dial on this one is openworked and skeletonized, reinforcing the hard core aesthetics. And simultaneously, this piece has rainbow baguette cut sapphires. I think this piece provides a really great value point to access the aesthetic of a rainbow without spending six figures plus to achieve the look. If you appreciate the dichotomy between two worlds that this watch captures, this piece would look great in your watch collection.