The Best Small Watches for Men
Buyers GuidesPublished by: Samuel Colchamiro
View all posts by Samuel ColchamiroIt seems like everyone (at least everyone here in America) wants everything supersized. The largest TV, the largest engine, the largest house, the list goes on. And yet, not everyone wants the biggest watch. Larger watches have been en vogue for quite a while now with watch brands regularly producing pieces upwards of 42mm, a size that most companies would never have fathomed 30 to 40 years ago. The tide does seem to be starting to turn, however, and we are starting to see a shift back towards smaller case sizes.
So what exactly qualifies as a small watch? There are a number of considerations, but in general, dress watches are typically smaller than sports watches. Whereas 40mm on a dress piece may be large, 40mm on a dive watch would be considered normal or even slightly small. Similarly, different brands have different sizing conventions. Panerai, for instance, regularly makes watches in excess of 44mm, with many 45-48mm watches in the mix. Audemars Piguet has entire lines of watches all sized in the high 40s. Other brands keep watches on the smaller end.
If you like larger watches (and have the real estate on your wrist for them), that’s great. But physically, watches larger than 42mm are too big for many men to wear comfortably. Even if it fits on the wrist, it simply looks out of proportion with their wrist size or their hand. For these collectors, it can often be difficult to find good options. Furthermore, as a time-only watch grows in size, the dial begins to look a bit like a dinner plate. In order to maintain proportionality and visual elegance, I do believe that there is an optimal size. For a company to effectively produce a bigger watch that’s not complicated, there are a number of strategies that can be employed to help maintain this. In general, a 36mm-39mm watch looks well balanced on most wrists with the size of the dial compared to the indices, etc. the most aesthetically pleasing.
I believe the overall shift towards smaller watches may be linked to a broader “vintage-inspired” trend. More and more brands are dipping into their archives to find successful designs to reimagine and reissue. This has once again brought watch sizing into the forefront as many brands have begun to shift their sizing conventions back into historic territory.
Take it or leave it, size preference is entirely subjective but we hope this list provides a few options for those that prefer watches on the smaller side. In our opinion, these are the best small men’s watches.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126200 36mm
To start off, we have a watch that simultaneously embodies everything Rolex is, and everything that Rolex isn’t. Let me explain what I mean. The Oyster Perpetual incorporates many of Rolex’s foundational contributions to the watch world. The Oyster case, introduced by Rolex in 1926, was the first water and dust proof watch. A huge achievement for Rolex, the innovation helped put the brand on the map. Then, in 1931, Rolex created what is credited with being the first automatic winding wrist watch, utilizing the “perpetual” rotor. These two foundational innovations, waterproofing and self-winding, are two of the main reasons Rolex as a brand is so popular today.
The Oyster Perpetual presents those two contributions without anything else. There is nothing extraneous. No date, no fluted bezel, no jubilee bracelet, no precious metal case. It’s just the distilled essence of what Rolex is known for. Perhaps this is for you, and perhaps it’s not, but regardless, the Oyster Perpetual is one of the greatest small watches for men as a result of its simplicity and purity. It’s a refreshing watch to put on the wrist. In this case, we’ve chosen an example with a turquoise (“Tiffany blue”) dial for a bit of added fun and a splash of character. Rolex has been willing to use the OP line to introduce brighter, funkier colors, including oranges, reds, and even the new celebration dial, however, the Oyster Perpetual is also available in a number of more traditional colors as well. It’s just a great everyday watch.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 126234 36mm
If you are looking for something classic but with a little more flash than the Oyster Perpetual, the 36mm Ref. 126234 Datejust might be for you. Bearing an added instantaneous-jumping date, the Datejust has remained an incredibly popular model for Rolex since its introduction in 1945. We particularly like the models with white gold fluted bezels. This suits the overall goal of a slightly more elevated aesthetic than what an OP provides. The Datejust is offered on an Oyster bracelet (just like the OP) or on the more ornate Jubilee bracelet. Furthermore, the model comes in a wide array of dial colors, metal options and sizes. This means that there really is a Datejust for everyone. And that’s why the Datejust really is one of the best options for small wrists.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15550ST 50th Anniversary 37MM
Our next pick from Audemars Piguet is another classic. The 37mm 50th Anniversary Royal Oak 15550ST gives you everything you could ever want from an iconic Gerald Genta design, just in a reduced size. The watch is smaller than the Royal Oak Jumbo that is so incredibly popular, and much smaller than the Offshore and Concept versions of the Royal Oak. As a sports piece, the 37mm case diameter immediately places this Royal Oak on the smaller end of the spectrum. I personally think that the 37mm variant fits the most wrists and looks the best. Surprisingly, this variant is actually 2mm smaller than the first Royal Oak released in in 1972 (which was sized at 39mm). If a Jumbo wears a bit too big, the 37mm version will likely fit just right. If you’ve always wanted to be a part of the Royal Oak club but the Jumbo is too big for you, add one of these to your collection.
A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin Ref. 201.033 37mm
Admittedly, I cannot be objective on this watch. The Saxonia Thin Manual Wind is one of my all time favorite pieces from any brand at any price point. Lange has had a special place in my heart ever since I first handled a Lange 1. The robustness of the watch, the distinctive design language, and the impeccable movement finishing were an entirely new world, and it was really Lange that got me into high end watches.
The Saxonia Thin is one of the few luxury watches I truly believe to be perfect. There is absolutely nothing superfluous on the watch. It’s a two-hander with white dial and stick indices and that’s it. And yet, in spite of the incredible simplicity of the watch on paper, in the metal, the ref. 201.033 is an entirely different beast. Everything is done just a bit more than necessary. Rose gold for the case, sterling silver for the dial, German silver on the movement, Glashutte stripes, anglage, perlage, golden chatons, blued screws, black polished screws, a swan’s neck regulator, and of course, a hand engraved balance cock. The watch is so unassuming and yet it is so obviously of the highest quality when you handle it or even just give it a quick glance. Plus, it’s 37mm, perfect for dress occasions and optimally balanced between vintage and contemporary sizing conventions. Its simplicity done right and I love it.
Cartier Crash Skeleton Limited Edition Ref. W7200001
Moving to the top of the line, this limited edition Cartier Crash Skeleton in platinum, reference W7200001, is about as exclusive as a Cartier (or any watch for that matter) gets. The Crash has a sort of mystical aura surrounding it with legends alleging that the design was inspired by a misshapen Tank that had been in a car accident (not true, but fun nonetheless). Regardless, the incredibly rare Crash models are, no surprise, incredibly desirable. This particular reference was introduced in 2014 in a limited edition of only 67 pieces in platinum. The unique skeletonized design, with Roman numeral hour markers integrated directly into the skeletonized movement, gives the Crash a much more modern aesthetic than the normal gold models. While the watch is actually fairly wide, the sheer thinness and whimsical curves of the case help to slim out the profile and visual weight of the watch. I always love seeing brands take a traditional design and produce a hyper-modernist version like this one.
Cartier Tank Asymetrique Privee Collection WGTA0042 26.2mm x 47.15mm
First launched in 1936 as the Tank Parallelogramme, the Cartier Tank Asymetrique features a dial tilted 30 degrees to the right, supposedly so drivers could easily tell the time while their hands were on the steering wheel. The Tank Asymetrique showcases Cartier’s affinity for design and their seemingly effortless ability to create iconic designs. This watch is only 26.2mm wide and is quite svelte, meaning that it sits nicely on the wrist. Be aware, however, that the off-kilter lugs make the piece a bit broader than its dimensions might suggest. The WGTA0042 specifically is limited to just 100 pieces in platinum as part of the revived Priveé Collection. The watch pulls its weight as a great small watch, but also as a unique pick from Cartier in general
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic Q3858522 27.4mm x 45.6mm
Another rectangular watch that we really like for small wrists is the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. The Reverso is one of those watches that you might assume would be chunky on the wrist, but it’s actually quite surprising that given the flipping mechanism the watch still manages to maintain a smaller footprint. This is partly due to the fact that the movement within the Ref. Q3858522 is only 2.94mm thick. The Reverso Classic is the most traditional representation of the Reverso design, remaining consistent with the aesthetic of Reverso’s from the 1930s. This monoface reference comes with subsidiary seconds and a beautifully guilloched central dial. Blued steel hands and grooves in the case help round out the Art Deco design details. Reverso’s have gotten larger over time, but the Classic is still supremely wearable for wrists of all sizes.
Tudor Black Bay 54 Ref. 79000N 37mm
One of the more affordable pieces on our list is the Tudor Black Bay 54. At 37mm, this piece is about as small as you will find for a dive watch from any era. The watch features many of the vintage aspects of the original Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7922 released in 1954 (hence the name), including a faux riveted bracelet, domed crystal, and gilt dial. The smaller size of the Black Bay 54 (and the previously released 39mm Black Bay 58) is something collectors had been advocating for quite a while. With the Black Bay’s vintage inspiration, it only makes sense that Tudor would size down from the original 41mm case and because of all of this, the Black Bay 54 is already well on its way to being considered a modern icon.
Piaget Altiplano 900P Ultra Thin Ref. G0A39110 38mm
In addition to producing high-end jewelry, Piaget has made a name for itself developing some of the thinnest watches on the market. The Altiplano 900P is one of Piaget’s modern dress pieces, and it’s quite attractive. It’s an interesting blend of a semi-skeletonized dial with an offset time display and exposed balance wheel. The watch is only 3.65mm thick and 38mm in diameter. If you are going to buy a Piaget, definitely consider buying one of the ultra thin pieces, since this is what the brand really does best. When looking for dress watches with a bit of a modern twist, this Piaget lives alongside the skeletonized Crash in the group of tasteful modernized timepieces. Well done.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919J-001 33mm
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J showcases the simple elegance of the brand’s design aesthetic of the 1980s and 90s. The classic hobnail design makes this Calatrava a quintessential dress watch in every way. With a creamy lacquer dial, yellow gold case, small black Roman numerals, alligator leather strap, and tang buckle, this piece is sometimes dismissed as an “old man’s” watch. That said, the 3919 has some added flair with a hobnail “clous de Paris” bezel, a detail that has been seen in the recent reference 6119.
The 3919 is 33mm, and with that comes a level of value you won’t find with larger Patek timepieces. As trends move back towards the realm of smaller case sizes, we can expect important small references such as the 3919 to drift back up in value (which we have already started to see). Launched in 1985, the 3919 was designed when Patek leadership asked an advertising agency to depict what the look of a Patek was to them. In that regard, this piece embodies the very essence of the Patek brand with its minimalist yet ornate style.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 3738/100R-001 35mm x 31mm
If you are looking for something a little more eclectic from Patek Philippe, the Golden Ellipse has been gaining popularity in recent years (I mean, even Drake has been spotted wearing one). The rose gold ref. 3738 seen here is 35mm at its widest, but this doesn’t tell the whole story. The Golden Ellipse has a strap that connects inside the case, eliminating lugs completely, which makes it wear far smaller than many other similarly sized watches. Additionally, these pieces are incredibly wearable and comfortable on the wrist. While the Golden Ellipse may not be for everyone, its a great option for those looking for a unique, yet smaller, offering from Patek Phillipe.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Ref. 5100-1140-o52a 38mm
If you are looking for a diver with a lot of heritage, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is your watch. I mean, it was technically the first modern dive watch, released just months before the Rolex Submariner in 1953. The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Ref. 5100-1140-o52a is a scaled down version of the watch, perfect for someone with a smaller wrist that still wants the heritage associated with the model. This variant sports a blue dial instead of the standard black , which gives it a more modern aesthetic. The 38mm sizing is spot on and more dive watches should be made in this size range. Plus, the 10.8mm thickness is surprisingly well proportioned. While many watches, especially dive watches, end up too thick, the Bathyscaphe gets it right. On top of all of this, the Bathyscaphe offers 300 meters of water resistance. If you are looking for a well proportioned dive watch fit for a smaller wrist, this Bathyscaphe is a great option.
Blancpain Villeret Flying Tourbillon Ref. 0023
The Blancpain Tourbillon 0023 might just be the exact opposite to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe we just featured. But Blancpain has made some very serious high horology timepieces in addition to their famous dive watches. This tourbillon is quite quaint at 34mm. This is a difficult sizing to achieve since tourbillons add significantly to the size and thickness of most watches. A 34mm watch is small by any standard, but for the complication, this is especially wearable. While most of the case and caseback is solid, the tourbillon segment is exposed straight through to a small sapphire insert on the caseback. An understated hand-wound tourbillon, the Blancpain Tourbillon represents a hidden pocket of value among the high end watchmakers, and might be one of the best kept secrets of high horology.
Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse MOP Dial Ref. G3487.7 35MM
If you are looking for a smaller eccentric piece that has built up quite the following among collectors, make sure to check out the Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta is probably the most famous Swiss watch designer, having designed such icons as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. In addition to his work for these prominent Swiss brands, Genta also created his own brand in 1969. This Genta Mickey is one of the pieces produced by his eponymous company, introduced early in its existence. The Mickey Mouse G3487 is a surprising watch for more than one reason. Its dial showcases, you guessed it, Mickey Mouse, with the handset being the character’s hands. The 35mm stainless steel case is a very Genta-esque octagonal shape and the dial is constructed from faceted mother of pearl. If you are a Disney fan, a Genta fan, or just a lover of fine watchmaking, this piece is definitely to you.
IWC Mark XV Ref. IW325301 38mm
IWC is a brand that traditionally has produced larger watches (think the BIG Pilot). This is in line with the brand’s heritage involving pilot’s watches, which typically were oversized for increased legibility while flying. Unfortunately, this can cause problems for enthusiasts with smaller wrists that like the brand’s aesthetic. However, if you are looking for that quintessential IWC pilot watch in a smaller package, the IWC Mark XV is an excellent option. Measuring just 38mm, it is probably as small a pilot watch as you can possibly find. While legibility is paramount for a watch of this style, let’s be honest, most of us are picking up these pieces for style, not flight. So if you are not an actual pilot, the IWC Mark XV is a great choice.
Zenith Defy Revival A3691 Ref. 03.A3642.670/3691.M3642 37mm
The Zenith Defy collection is characterized by vintage influences and a unique case and bracelet design. The Zenith Defy A3691 is technically 37mm in diameter, but its cushion-ish mono-block case construction without lugs makes it perfect for someone looking for a smaller footprint on the wrist. To be fair, the red dial and ladder bracelet are both a bit polarizing, but they are unique to the watch and fit with its 70’s influenced design. While the Defy Revival is not for everyone, for those that appreciate it, it’s a fun and unique watch.
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Ref. 97.T384.4061/21.C822 37mm
Our next Zenith watch is also sized at a comfortable 37mm. The Chronomaster Revival line is a celebration of Zenith’s success in the automatic winding chronograph category. If there’s one complication that Zenith owns, it’s the chronograph. Zenith was one of the original three manufacturers (along with Heuer and Seiko) to produce an automatic winding chronograph movement. While the design of this model relies heavily on Zenith’s vintage El Primero models, it also comes with a titanium case that has been finished in matte black, providing a stealthy and modern aesthetic. Sports watches are probably the hardest category to tackle for those with a small wrist, but you can’t go wrong with the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow.
Panerai Luminor Due Luna Ref. PAM01180 38mm
Panerai’s can be a pretty intimidating wear for anyone with a smaller than average wrist. They are big, bulky and in your face, but that’s probably why so many people like them. They are also extremely recognizable with their cushion cases and signature crown guards. Historically, Panerai’s tended to start at 44mm, which is pretty large for most people, and go up in size from there. That’s where the Luminor Due Luna PAM01180, a reference that is both complicated and concise, distinguishes itself. At 38mm, this model is actually quite small for Panerai and while it may be advertised as a women’s watch, it is wearable by anyone. It looks large because of the profile of the watch, but it wears comfortably on the wrist (and Panerai’s are meant to wear a little bit large anyways!). Balancing the subsidiary seconds dial is a moonphase, which adds a bit of color and complication to the dial. If like me, you harbor a deep love for Panerai but have been left out of the party because of the size of your wrist, give this piece a try. It may be just what you are looking for.
Omega Speedmaster Reduced Ref.
324.32.38.50.06.001 38mm
For our final watch, we have a great alternative for one of the most iconic watches on the market. The Omega Speedmaster is often too large for small wrists, as in addition to its large case size, most models have bracelets with very broad end links that push the bracelet’s curvature much further on the wrist. Noticing that not everyone could wear the typical Speedy, Omega released the Speedmaster Reduced. While there are some aesthetic differences between the Reduced and a standard Speedmaster (including the shape of the subdials) it is still a great chronograph built on the heritage of the original Speedmaster. At 38mm, there’s no doubt the Speedmaster Reduced really hits the sweet spot as an alternative to Omega’s larger chronographs.
Previous Article
Green With Envy: The Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton Green WHSA0028
Next Article
Op-Ed: The Myths of the Mighty Tool Watch
Join 75,000+ Other Watch Enthusiasts