The 10 Best Watches Seen at European Watch Company in 2023

For the past 30 years, European Watch Company has been selling watches to the Boston (and worldwide) watch collecting community. Over the years, we have seen some amazing and rare pieces come through the store. But in 2023, our 30th year in business, some of the timepieces that came into the store were truly special. So to wrap up 2023, we wanted share 10 of our favorite watches we saw at EWC in 2023. This list includes some new releases from 2023 as well as some amazing watches that we sold this year.

Rolex Daytona Le Mans 126529LN

First up is a watch that might be the most talked about release of 2023: the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans”. The white gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 126529LN Le Mans was introduced this year to commemorate the 100th running of the 24 Hours of Le Mans. With a reverse panda dial configuration and Newman-esque subdial indices, collectors have gone crazy for this vintage-inspired Rolex. While Rolex has not stated whether or not this piece is a limited edition, very few have actually been allocated to collectors. Because of this, the Le Mans is probably the most sought-after modern Rolex currently on the market. But make no mistake, we have seen the Le Mans in person, and it is as good as it looks.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph “Yellow Jacket” ref. 403.041

One of our favorite chronographs of all times, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph is a beautiful combination of sporty and classic. And the “Yellow Jacket” Ref. 403.041 might be the grail among Datographs. While the watch features many aspects typical of the Datograph, including the big date at 12 o’clock and the reverse panda style dial, it’s the yellow gold case that makes it so special. It was made for only 2 years and was never officially included in Lange’s catalog. So if you are looking for the rarest and most collectable Datograph to add to your collection, the Ref. 403.041 Yellow Jacket is the watch for you.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial Ref. 5372P-010

While Patek Philippe grand complications are pretty rare, we see quite a few come through the doors of EWC. And one of the absolute favorites we saw this year was the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5372P-010. When you first see this watch, you’ll immediately notice the beautiful salmon dial (indeed, we included it on our list of favorite salmon dial watches). Beyond the dial color, the watch features a platinum case, perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronograph. All of this is housed in a modest 38mm case. If you are looking for a Patek grand complication, but the typical grand complication size is stopping you from pulling the trigger, check out the Ref. 5372P-010.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Monopusher Chronograph Ref. 5208P-001

Another Patek grand complication that we saw this year, the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Monopusher Chronograph Ref. 5208P-001, is a real tour de force. At 42mm, it’s a little larger than the Ref. 5372P previously featured. But the size is needed for the all the complications housed inside the platinum case. The watch not only has a perpetual calendar, but a minute repeater and monopusher chronograph. The fact that Patek packed all of this into a 42mm case is actually remarkable. If you are looking for one of the most technically impressive Patek Philippe grand complications on the market, the Ref. 5208P-001 just might be it.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01

While it was released originally in 2019, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01 still remains incredibly popular today. When it was first released, the 26586IP was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar watch (at 6.3mm thick). Made of titanium and platinum, the watch mixes traditional Royal Oak design points and modern aesthetics. The watch has the standard Royal Oak, octagonal bezel, but lacks a Grande Tapisserie dial. Instead, you get a more modern satin-brushed dial, that allows a better view of the watch’s perpetual calendar. To us, this sleek, thin Royal Oak is one of our favorites currently on the market.

Cartier Pebble Limited Edition Yellow Gold 2023 Ref. WGPB0003

Though in recent years Cartier has shown off their engineering chops, the brand is most well known for their illustrious designs. From the Crash to the Tank Assymetrique, Cartier’s funky designs have transcended horology and become fashion icons as well. And one of our favorite designs from Cartier was a 2023 release, the Pebble. Based on a design originally released in the 1960s, the Pebble is quirky and unique. The dial has been rotated, so that the traditional square Santos-esque dial’s 12, 3, 6 and 9 indexes are the right-angle points of the square dial. The case is a circular, pebble shape (hence the name), giving the watch a completely unique design. Limited to just 150 pieces, if you are looking for something a little more fashion-forward, take a look at the Cartier Pebble. 

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Vision GF02

Greubel Forsey makes some of the most complicated (and most expensive) watches on the market. But these are definitely not your classic grand complications, the likes you see from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. Greubel Forsey’s watches are big, bold and modern. And while this aesthetic might not be for everyone, it’s hard not to appreciate the engineering behind a Greubel Forsey timepiece. And the GF02 Double is the perfect testament to all of this. The watch doesn’t just boast a tourbillon complication, but the tourbillon actually helps the precision of the movement (unlike most tourbillon wristwatches). To do this, Greubel placed the tourbillon at 30 degrees inside a second flat tourbillon. This actually helps the movement remain accurate. Who said that a tourbillon in a wristwatch was pointless? 

Richard Mille RM035 Rafael Nadal Americas Limited Edition FULL SET Ref. RM035 CA-TZP Americas

We love Richard Mille watches because they are different from anything else on the market. Inherently sporty, the engineering lives up to the design. And the RM035 Rafal Nadal Americas Limited Edition lives up to its tennis champion namesake. Produced in collaboration with the great Rafael Nadal, the RM035 is incredibly light and shock resistant. This is a watch meant to be worn and take a beating. Beyond that, in typical Richard Mille style, the dial is openworked, so you can appreciate the manual wind movement. Indeed, you can see all the way through the movement to your wrist. Offered on a rubber strap, if you want something on the sportier side, it doesn’t get better than the Richard Mille RM035.

F.P. Journe Chronometre Resonance “Pre-Souscription”

F.P. Journe has grown over the last two decades to become one of the preeminent independent watch brands, and preeminent watch brands, in the world. And because of that, the earliest work of François-Paul Journe has become incredibly collectible. In 2023, we had the chance to see one of these very early pieces as the Chronometre Resonance “Pre-Souscription” came through the store. Supposedly a limited edition of 25 pieces, this watch is believed to be one of the first watches to ever leave F.P. Journe’s manufacturer. And because of this, the price for the Chronometre Resonance “Pre-Souscription” is astronomical. It sells for well about $1 Million on the secondary market (if you can find one).

MB&F Horological Machine No. 10 “Bulldog” Titanium Ref. 100.TL.BL

One of the funkier watches we had the chance to see this year, came from MB&F. The MB&F HM10 is part of the brand’s more avant-garde design-focused Horological Machine collection. Nicknamed the “Bulldog” due to what looks like a bulldog’s face in the time display chamber of the piece, the MB&F HM10 is an incredibly fun, and technically spectacular, from MB&F founder Max Büsser. Time is displayed through the “eyes” of the bulldog, two half spheres sitting just underneath the watch’s floating balance wheel. On the side of the case is the “mouth” which is also the watch’s power reserve. With watches like the HM10, MB&F remains one of the few brands willing to take chances and blend art with funky designs. If you like the quirkier side of high horology, check out the MB&F HM10 “Bulldog.