A Whole New World: The Hermes Arceau L’heure de la Lune

When you think of haute horology, Hermes is definitely not the first brand that comes to mind. Yes, Hermes definitely invokes luxurious notions, but that is typically reserved for their leatherwork and clothing. Thus, many people are surprised when I tell them that Hermes’ watchmaking can be compared favorably to many high-end legacy watch brands. With a recent push into haute horology, Hermes is worth a look for collectors. And the Arceau L’heure de la Lune is the perfect example of the recent strides the brand has made as a serious watchmaker.

History

Hermes actually has a fairly long history of watchmaking. The brand’s first watch was produced in 1912. It was actually a gift for Emile Hermès’ daughter. However, the brand didn’t really dip into watchmaking for another 16 years. In 1928, Hermes started producing watches for commercial sale. These watches were manufactured by Movado.

In 1978, Hermes decided that they would take watch manufacturing in-house, creating the “La Montre Hermès” in Biel, Switzerland. It was this same year that the brand released the first Arcau, the watch the Hermes Arceau L’heure de la Lune is based on.

In 2006 Hermes further showcased their commitment to watchmaking, acquiring a 25% stake in Vaucher, a Swiss movement manufacturer, for $25 million USD. The brand would purchase another manufacturer, Nateber SA, 6 years later. This was all a prelude to Hermes releasing their first in-house caliber in 2012.

And since 2012, Hermes’ watchmaking department has continued to grow. The brand has been able to produce sport watches with in-house calibers, as well as more complicated watches, including a minute repeater with Tourbillon. The Arceau L’heure de la Lune isn’t the most complicated watch, but it showcases Hermes’ elegant design and refined watchmaking.

Design Details

When you first look at the Arceau L’heure de la Lune in white gold, what you will probably notice is the unique time display and moonphase complication. The are two “floating” dials, one displaying the time and the other displaying the date. They are mounted centrally and actually rotate around the dial. And why is that? Well, conventionally when you have a moophase, the moon rotates. On the Arceau L’heure de la Lune, the two dials rotate, obscuring the dual mother of pearl moons to give you the phase of the moon.

And on the Arceau L’heure de la Lune there are two moons. One displays the phase of the moon for the Northern Hemisphere, while the other the Southern Hemisphere. It really creates a mesmerizing effect. It also gives more complexity and visual interest to what is generally considered a fairly standard complication (the moonphase)

Playing on the theme of the moon and space, the main dial is made of meteorite (another has a tar-patterned granite dial). I am always a fan of moonphase watches with meteorite dials. And here, the meteorite dial is subtle but adds some additional sophistication to the watch. Having it on the main dial, below the subdials, makes the meteorite of an accent than the main attraction.

In early times, the tourbillon was almost always buried in the back of the watch, but as the tourbillon has become an appreciated artform, brands have begun to celebrate the mechanical and aesthetic beauty of the tourbillon more “openly”. 

Inner Workings

The Arceau L’heure de la Lune runs on the in-house Hermès caliber H1837 movement. It is fitted with a module named the “L’Heure De La Lune”. This module was designed specifically to create this display and it requires over 100 components. It is so innovative that a patent was filed for it (though I do not know if it was granted as of yet.

You can see the movement through the watch’s display caseback. It is well finished and the rotor and the main bridge are adorned with a pattern of Hermes Hs, rather than your typical perlage or Cotes de Geneve. This is a nice touch, and brings the movement’s finishing to another level.

Versus the Competition

If you are looking for for a moonphase watch with similar artristry, the A. Lange & Sohne Little Lange 1 Ref. 182.086 is a great option. The Ref. 182.086 may only have a single moonphase on the bottom right of the dial, but the aventurine dial is simply stunning. If you are looking for a moonphase, from a legacy brand, that will be a true conversation starter, this is definitely a great option.

However, if you are looking for something a little sportier, but still want that moonphase complication, you can’t go wrong with the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A-001. This is your traditional stainless steel Nautilus, except it has a moonphase display, along with subsidiary seconds, date and power reserve. The quirkiness of the asymmetrical dial layout has become a favorite among Patek Philippe collectors, making it different from pretty much any Patek on the market.

Personality

At 43mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, the Arceau L’heure de la Lune is not a small watch by any means. So, it will definitely wear a little larger on your wrist. But with brands sizing everything down recently, it’s always nice to see something a little bigger and with personality, especially in the dress watch category. Besides, the Arceau L’heure de la Lune is definitely a conversation piece. So wrist presence is not exactly a detriment.

Final Thoughts

If you are tired of looking at only legacy watchmakers to add to your collection, and want something high quality and unique, Hermes is a great brand to consider. Many people dismiss the brand, because so many other high fashion brands have failed to successfully integrate watches and watchmaking into their portfolio. But Hermes has shown that it can be done successfully. And the Arceau L’heure de la Lune is a prime example of this.

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