Art on the Wrist: The Patek Philippe 5089G Rare Handcrafts Calatrava New York Jazz Edition Cloisonne Enamel

When you think of Patek Philippe, you probably think of the brand’s sport watches, like the Nautilus or Aquanaut, or their grand complications, like the Grandmaster Chime. But Patek does a lot more than that. And the Handcrafts collection showcases a completely different area in which Patek excels, hand enameling. The Ref. 5089G may be a fairly simple Calatrava at heart but it is not the movement that is the focal point of this watch. The hand-enameled dial showcases two jazz performers and the New York City skyline in striking detail.

History

The Calatrava has a long history for the Patek Philippe. First released in 1932, it has come to be regarded as the quintessential dress watch from the brand. And the brand has been calling on artisans to hand enamel their watches since the brand was founded in 1839.

From the hand Cloisonne enameling on watches like the World Timer Ref. 5231G-001 to the Rare Handcrafts featured here, Patek is clearly showcasing another side of what the maison can do. With the Patek Philippe Ref. 5089G Rare Handcrafts Calatrava New York Jazz Edition, Patek foregoes complications for simplicity, letting the stunning enamel work do the talking.

Design Details

When looking at anything but the dial on the 5089G, you will notice how simple it is. The 38mm in diameter case is 8mm thick, but noticeably, doesn’t have any embellishments. Indeed, the topside of the bezel and lugs are brushed, giving the case an almost sport, rather than dress watch, look. The sides of the case and lugs are polished, but it is clear that Patek wanted the white gold case to remain as simple as possible, so as not to take away from the dial.

And the dial is stunning. When I normally think of watchmakers that specialize on stunning dials, Patek Philippe isn’t at the forefront of my mind. Yes, the hand-enameling done on the previously mentioned World Time Ref. 5231G is exceptional. But I think of brands like Kari Voutilainen or Simon Brette (and even Grand Seiko), when I think of dial-centric watches.

But clearly, Patek is capable of producing dials just as stunning and special as any other high horology watch brand. With the Calatrava New York Jazz Edition you get more than just an interesting pattern. You get a depiction of two Jazz players with the New York City skyline in the background. Opposite the skyline, near the top of the dial, there is some bars of music. The result is a piece of art. It is like wearing a painting on your wrist.

This is certainly is not a watch for everyone. Not everyone wants portraits or artwork as the focal point of their watch’s dial. But if you do, this the perfect watch for you.

Inner Workings

Look, the movement is definitely not the most important aspect of the watch. But it is worth mentioning. The 5089G runs in the caliber 240, ultra-thin automatic movement. It beats at a frequency of 21,600 vph, has 27 jewels, and a power reserve of 48-hours.

Interestingly, the caseback is on a hinge, that allows you to open and close it as you please. This allows you to enjoy the movement, even if it is not meant to be a focal point of the watch. It’s a nice compromise instead a full display caseback. As the dial is clearly meant to be the showcase of the watch, not having the movement on permanent display makes sense.

Versus the Competition

If you are looking for hand-enameled dial, but want a complication, the Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G-001 is a great choice. The 5231G is a world-time, showcasing 24 different timezones (as well-as day/night indications). At the center of the dial, is a hand-enameled map, here of Oceania and South-East Asia. It is truly a stunning piece, and combines a useful complication with Patek’s high-end enameling.

If you are looking for another example of beautiful dial finishing, you should look at Kari Voutilainen, especially the Retrograde Date “Night Sky” Piece Unique Ref. 217QRS. This piece features a dial engraved first to create the raised surface of the moon, stars, Saturn, as well as other celestial forms. The dial is hand painted give the watch even more depth. It is truly stunning and unlike anything I have ever seen before.

Finally, if you want something sub-$10,0000, you can’t go wrong with something from Grand Seiko. The White Birch Ref. SLGH005 is a personal favorite of mine. The dial is made to look like a white birch tree, with a pattern of peaks and valleys that is truly stunning to see in person. On top of that, the watch employs a high-beat movement, meaning that not only is the sweep of the second hand extremely smooth, but the watch is more accurate.

Personality 

The Patek Philippe 5089G Rare Handcrafts Calatrava New York Jazz Edition is for someone that is looking for something a little more artistic out of their watch. Yes, some may opt for the more avant-garde aesthetic of an MB&F or Urwerk. But for the discerning collector that wants something a bit more understated, the 5089G is a great choice. Combining enamel art with Patek’s classic dress watch creates something new and incredibly unique.

Final Thoughts

As I said, Patek’s Rare Handcrafts are not for everyone. More than anything else, they are pieces of art on your wrist. And while you might say this about any high-end watch, it is especially true of a watch like this. If you would like to see art on your wrist instead of the museum, take a closer look at the 5089G.

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