Rainbow on the Wrist: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Chronograph “Rainbow” Ref. 7968/300R

Recently, Patek Philippe has been leaning into creating new pieces geared towards women with their Aquanaut “Luce” line. And while, according to Patek at least, these pieces are designed for the brand’s clientele, they are actually quite appealing to men as well. One prime example of this is the Aquanaut Chronograph Reg. 7968/300R. While the watch has a mother of pearl dial and is set with diamonds and rainbow gems across around the bezel, it is 39.9mm wide, making it the perfect size for men as well. And, thus, it has found popularity among male and female collectors alike. 

History

Patek Philippe has a lengthy history with making women’s wristwatches, dating back to the 19th century. One of the earliest modern ladies watches was a Patek Philippe, made in 1868 and sold to Hungarian Countess Koscewicz. So while Patek may be more well known for their mens’ sport watches and complications (though we contend that every watch is unisex), their history of making women’s watches is lengthy.

While in the past, women’s watches have been small, quartz and without any real complications, Patek has been trying to change that in recent years. And the Luce Collection has been the brand’s means to do so. Using the Aquanaut, a sports watch, as the platform, Patek has played with materials, gems and colors to create something unique for women. 

And I see the Luce Rainbow Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R as a culmination of Patek’s attempts to create more serious wristwatches for women. Not only does the watch feature an intricate mother of pearl dial and rainbow gem-set bezel, but it has a chronograph, something Patek would normally not include on a ladies watch. And while the watch is perfect for women, at 39.9mm it is also a great watch for men. 

Design Details

While this Aquanaut is marketed as a ladies watch, I see it as a watch perfect for men or women. This has a lot to do with the size of the watch. While the 7968/300R has been sized down to 39.9mm from the brand’s other Aquanaut Chronographs (which are 42.mm), it is similarly sized to the time only Ref. 5167 (which is 40.8mm). Thus, at nearly 40mm, the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow is clearly wearable by anyone, man or woman, who likes the watch’s design.

Visually, the watch is much more interesting than your run of the mill Aquanaut. You will probably first notice the bright red rubber strap, with the Aquanaut’s iconic grenade pattern. The grenade pattern continues onto the dial, but that’s not what makes the dial so spectacular. While you might miss it upon first glance, the dial is actually made of white mother of pearl. The mother of pearl has been crafted into the the grenade pattern (which is present on most Aquanaut models). You have to see it in person, but the mother of pearl dial adds an additional sparkle and level of interest to the watch.

Beyond the dial and strap, the gem-set bezel stands out. Some may compare this watch to the rainbow Daytona, but it actually is fairly unique. Unlike the rainbow Daytona, the Aquanaut has two tiers of gems. The inner tier consists of 50 baguette-cut diamonds. The outer tier is a rainbow pattern, consisting of 52 baguette-cut multicolored sapphires. The sapphires’ colors are more muted than a rainbow Daytona, consisting of yellows, oranges, pinks, purples and blues. The bezel sapphires are matched by sapphire hour markers (though there are also numeral indexes as well).

Inner Workings

The Aquanaut Luce 7968/300R runs on the Caliber CH 28-520 in-house chronograph automatic movement. This movement actually powers the larger Aquanaut chronographs as well. The chronograph has a flyback functionality, with central seconds and a 60 minutes counter. Because the watch has a single sundial, it is a much cleaner look for a chronograph.

Technically, the movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 VPH (4 Hz) and has a 50-55 hour power reserve.

Personality

If you’re a woman, looking for a wristwatch with serious aesthetic appeal and watchmaking, the 7968/300R is a great option for you. But at nearly 40mm, it is not a small watch. And perhaps because of this, the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow has been a hit among male collectors as well. 

I see this watch as something that has plenty to offer to both male and female collectors. For men, it might be on the flashier side. But there certainly have been a lot of men looking to add these types of watches to their collections (Kevin O’Leary, I’m looking at you). Yes, the red strap, and gem-set bezel is a little loud, but the market is definitely heading in the direction of producing more of these types of watches (look at the new Aquanaut Luce Minute Repeater for example).

Versus the Competition

If you like the Aquanaut Chronograph, with its simple single sundial dial design, but don’t want all the pomp and circumstance of a gem-set bezel and mother of pearl dial, the Ref. 5968A is a great watch. While the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow is rose gold, this piece is stainless steel. It is a little larger at 42.2mm and has a subdued black dial and rubber strap (in either black or orange). But the orange accents and chronograph seconds hand add just a little character and make the watch stand out. 

If you love the rainbow bezel of the Aquanaut Luce, the iconic Rolex Daytona Rainbow Ref. 116595 is great option. Like the Aquanaut, it is rose gold with rainbow cut sapphires adorning the bezel and hour markers. Instead of a mother of pearl dial, the Daytona has meteorite subdials, that add a unique flare to the watch. In terms of rainbow watches, it doesn’t get any more iconic than the Rolex Daytona.

Final Thoughts

Is the Aquanaut Luce Rainbow a women’s watch, a men’s watch, or a unisex watch? It doesn’t really matter that much to me. To me its just a great execution of a rainbow bezel watch, done in a unique way. So, if you like it, wear it, regardless of your gender. But I will admit, I do appreciate legacy brands like Patek Philippe creating complicated, serious wristwatches, catered towards women.

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