Vintage in a Modern Package: Rolex GMT Master II 126718GRNR

Rolex brought more than its fair share of interesting new releases to Watches & Wonders 2023, including the brand new Perpetual 1908 collection and an updated Daytona with a platinum model now featuring a display caseback. It was a more under the radar release from the Crown that really piqued my interest though. For the first time since 2018, Rolex brought yellow gold back to the GMT-Master II, and I have to say, they hit it out of the park. While the new Ref. 126718GRNR is clearly a modern watch, there are some intriguing vintage callbacks in this release that are worth discussing.

Like everyone, I have long been a fan of vintage Rolex tool watches, with early gilt dial models from the 50s and 60s holding a special place in my heart. These dials were used on both Submariners and GMT-Masters but were phased out and replaced with Maxi dials by the early 70s. While the 126718GRNR does not scream vintage in the way that perhaps the popular Tudor Black Bay does, it does have just enough vintage leanings to keep collectors, including myself, happy. Let’s take a closer look.

Rolex-GMT-Master-II-126718GRNR — Rolex GMT-Master II 126718GRNR

History

The history of the GMT-Master relates directly to its function. A GMT utilizes a 24-hour hand that allows the wearer to track a second time zone in addition to the local time. When paired with a bi-directional bezel, you can effectively track a third time zone in tandem with the 24 hour hand (if the watch is a true GMT- more on this later). Public demand for this type of “travel watch” coincided with the expansion of global travel and the advent of commercial airlines in the 1950s. In fact, the original GMT-Master was designed to outfit Pan Am pilots with a mens watch that could simultaneously track the time in both their place of origin and destination. The fact that the watch is tied so closely to such an exciting period in aviation history and the general spirit of exploration and adventure that emerged during the 1950s has always given the GMT Master II a bit of a romantic appeal for me and adds to the overall mystique of the GMT-Master.

Going back to the very first GMT-Master, the reference 6542, it is important to note that the model had a 24-hour hand that was tied directly to the main hour hand. This meant that you could only display 2 time zones at once. That changed in 1982, however, when Rolex presented the 16760 which was the first GMT-Master II. The GMT-Master II’s movement was updated to enable the independent operation of the 12 and 24-hour hands, allowing wearers to track three time zones for the first time – one with the 12-hour hand, a second with the 24, and and a third with the rotatable bezel and the 24-hour hand in tandem.

Flash forward to 2023 when Rolex presented two new variants of the Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, both with black dials and black bezels alongside gold accents. The first featured a full yellow gold construction, while the other was two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel. In many ways, the full gold 126718GRNR is a modernized version of the quintessential vintage Rolex GMT.

Design Details

In typical Rolex fashion, this “new” GMT Master II is more same than different. In actuality, Rolex really hasn’t changed anything beyond the color scheme. The 126718GRNR is set on an all-gold Jubilee bracelet, with the conventional Rolex Oyster case and Oysterlock crown that is found across the rest of the professional series. Just as with the Pepsi and Batman, the watch measures 40mm in diameter by 11.9mm thick and offers 100 meters of water resistance.

The real interest of this new release is, of course, its color scheme. With the 2023 update, yellow gold has now returned to the GMT Master collection, which is a welcome addition to the lineup (for the past 5 years you could only get the GMT-Master II in Everose gold/rose gold with root beer bezel). Yellow gold is the most popular of the precious metals for Rolex, and only having a solid gold Submariner as a staple among the professional models left a gap. The visual contrast that the 126718GRNR provides is really attractive. A black dial that has a glossy quality to it (much like the vintage GMTs and Submariners), grey and black ceramic bezel insert with golden inlayed text, gold hands and lume plots and, of course, the yellow gold case, all combine to provide a strong juxtaposition of cool darker tones with loud gold ones. Additionally, the words “GMT-Master II” are written in gilt text on the dial just like on the vintage classics.

This watch has a definitively modern vibe to it, yet its underpinnings are clearly influenced by the brand’s vintage archive. I don’t see many people discussing this at all, and perhaps this was not Rolex’s intention. Regardless, I feel that this watch is a welcome update to the GMT Master II collection, returning the Rolex GMT to its roots. You’ll note that the solid gold Rolex Submariner currently has white text only on the dial. I think that perhaps the success of the Black Bay collection has given proof of concept for Rolex to lean more into the details like gilt text that help to define the visuals of vintage Rolex classics. Maybe it’s just me.

Inner Workings

The new Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126718GRNR is powered by Rolex’s in-house caliber 3285. This is one of the brand’s workhorse movements, with 31 jewels. It also features the classic Chronergy escapement made from nickel phosphorus, which provides for greater resilience to shocks and magnetism. The 3285 is one of the new-generation movements that affords the full 70-hour power reserve that we have come to expect from premier brands. The movement alone features 10 patents from Rolex, all with the intent of increasing performance, reliability and accuracy. Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock system, and a paramagnetic oscillator are among the refinements made to the movement. To be honest, Rolex likely began to feel the pressure when Omega significantly increased its standards for both accuracy and resistance to magnetism and a renewed focus on movement performance and technology brought forth a wave of much needed improvements.

Versus the Competition

There really is no direct competition when it comes to the GMT-Master II. Instead, I would argue that the greatest competition for the contemporary Rolex GMT Master II reference 126718GRNR actually comes from vintage watches in Rolex’s own archive. The most immediate comparison would be the reference 16758, executed entirely in yellow gold with a jubilee bracelet. This is essentially the direct progenitor to the modern version I am reviewing here with the same two tone bezel, glossy black dial, golden hands and indexes. One charming detail is that this vintage example comes with a so-called “nipple” dial, named for its distinctive small, circular hour markers. Additionally, the entirety of the text on the dial of this 16758 is gilt. When I picture the inspiration for the 126718GRNR, it looks a whole lot like the ref. 16758 from the 80s.

Alternatively, consider a two-tone vintage example such as this 16713. This example is a neo-vintage GMT-Master II from 2000 that also has some vintage aesthetics. The 16713 features a Jubilee bracelet with solid outer links, and many of the other refinements more commonly found on contemporary Rolex offerings. There are certainly two-tone options that I like, although two-tone can be somewhat polarizing and is an aesthetic that’s not for everyone.

Finally, if you are looking for something truly nostalgic, take a look at this reference 5508 small crown Submariner from the 1950s. This watch has all the distinctive hallmarks of Rolex’s aesthetic from the period with a faded black bezel, radium lume, gilt text and minute markers, and a patinated handset. In many respects, I can see aspects of the 126718GRNR in this vintage beauty. Of course, the 126718GRNR will never quite age like the 5508. With no tritium for the lume, a cerachrom bezel insert that is far more resistant to scratches, more robust bracelet construction, sapphire crystal and more, there are far fewer components that will be subject to aging. This is both a good thing and a bad thing. On the one hand, as a tool, the watch will stay looking clean and crisp far longer. On the other hand, a lot of the romantic allure and charm of vintage watches will not extend into the next era of collecting. I personally am quite fond of patina and other indications of a life well lived, and I will sadly miss seeing these modern Rolexes age the way the old ones did.

Personality

The beautiful thing about Rolex watches is that they appeal to a wide array of enthusiasts. I could easily see the 126718GRNR taking the place of a solid gold Submariner as a strong choice for travelers. There’s no denying that those who opt for a watch like this are comfortable wearing a louder piece. The two-tone version is a bit more restrained, but is still a bold statement. The stainless variants are the more obvious choice for those who favor a reserved timepiece but once you get over the bling-factor of a solid gold Rolex, there is nothing better than looking down at your wrist and seeing one of these shining back.

If I were to own this piece, I’d want a vintage example alongside it to create a subcollection of sorts that showcases the dichotomy between old and new Rolexes. Regardless, I think a black dialed sports watch from Rolex executed in precious metal is an obvious choice for the brand, and ultimately is not a particularly risky move for collectors, unlike say, the celebration dial OP or the “Puzzle” dial Day-Date.

Final Thoughts

Rolex’s novelties this year generated a considerable amount of buzz. Alongside some of the more “in your face” releases, such as the new platinum Daytona with an exhibition caseback, Rolex snuck in this GMT-Master II. While not the most earth-shattering release, I personally expect this new GMT-Master to become a classic from the brand in the same way the pepsi bezel variation has become an icon. We have yet to see the market’s true response to the 126718GRNR, but I do think the watch has everything that made the vintage pieces great, just in a modernized package. If Rolex were to take a classic from their archive and simply bring the materials and finishes into the modern day, it would look a whole lot like the 126718GRNR. That’s the reason Rolex is so popular today, and the reason their designs stand the test of time.