Rolex Predictions for Watches & Wonders 2025: What’s Next from the Crown?

Rolex

Published by: David Sergeant

View all posts by David Sergeant
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There are few certainties in the watch world, but one thing you can always count on is that when Rolex unveils something new, the entire industry notices. Whether it’s collectors, enthusiasts, or casual observers, everyone has an opinion—and plenty of expectations—about what the brand will do next. And yet, Rolex has a way of proving that, no matter how much we speculate, we rarely see it coming.

The Unpredictable Nature of Rolex

Think about recent years. If anyone had predicted Rolex would release an emoji-laden Day-Date with a Puzzle dial, they would have been laughed out of the room. The same goes for the Oyster Perpetual with the Celebration dial—fun, playful, and completely unexpected from a brand known for its precision and conservatism. These are the kinds of moments that make Watches & Wonders such an exciting time. While some brands stick to predictable evolutions.

Rolex knows how to keep the world guessing.

As we look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, the anticipation is as high as ever. Will we see a major update to the Submariner? Perhaps a new Daytona material or a surprise complication? Every year, fans hope for certain things but Rolex doesn’t follow trends. It sets them.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126500LN

Dreaming Big But Keeping It Real

To get a better sense of what might be coming, we reached out to a few experts who live and breathe watches, including Rikki Damon from Scottish Watches, one of the world’s largest and longest-running watch podcasts. As usual, Damon didn’t hold back, suggesting that perhaps this is the year “Rolex surprises us in a way that isn’t quite so mundane for once.” He pointed out the brand’s previous “revolutionary” change—flipping the crown on a GMT—as “a surprise, but in the most boring kind of way.”

Rolex Left-Handed GMT Master II "Destro" Ref. 126720VTNR

It’s hard to argue with that observation, as Rolex often sparks massive reactions from relatively minor adjustments. Yet, Damon senses there might be something bigger on the horizon, especially considering Rolex’s recent acquisition of Carl F. Bucherer. He floated an intriguing theory, speculating that “the recent closing of the Carl F. Bucherer brand was to siphon off their elite watchmakers.” According to Damon, this move could mean Rolex is planning “something wild like a minute repeater tourbillon with a peripheral rotor—in full 18kt Everose gold, of course.”

A Rolex minute repeater tourbillon would certainly ignite discussions, though even Damon admitted the chances are slim. “But hey,” he added optimistically, “while we can dream of something properly cool from Rolex, it’s about as likely as half the rumors swirling around out there right now.”

All Eyes on the GMT-Master II?

While Damon is dreaming big, Kristian Haagen, one of 30 authors tapped to write the volume opus, “The Millennium Watch Book,” anticipates that Rolex may instead focus on celebrating one of its most iconic models, the GMT-Master, as it reaches its 70th anniversary. Introduced in 1955, Haagen noted this “pioneering timepiece remains a coveted icon—not just among pilots and aviation enthusiasts but for all lovers of exquisite Swiss watchmaking.”

Anniversaries often prompt Rolex to unveil special releases, and Haagen expects the return of a beloved classic. With the steel ‘Pepsi’ GMT already available since 2018, he predicts a comeback for the much-anticipated Coke iteration featuring a black and red Cerachrome insert. According to Haagen, this model would be “a fantastic complement to the grey/black version released in 2024, as well as the unconventional ‘Sprite’ model introduced in 2022.”

However, not all of Haagen’s expectations are positive. He foresees Rolex quietly retiring a popular recent addition: “Unfortunately, I expect the ‘Celebration Dial’ collection to be discontinued this year,” he admitted, humorously noting his own disappointment since he’s “been on the waiting list since the launch in 2023. Sigh…”

This wouldn’t be the first time Rolex introduced a bold offering only to withdraw it once demand exceeded supply. Whether the vibrant dials stay or not, Haagen’s prediction of the GMT’s ‘Coke’ comeback alone would undoubtedly excite collectors who’ve long awaited its return.

The Waiting Game (List?) Begins

Whatever Rolex unveils will spark conversation, debate, and, most importantly, long waitlists. The brand’s ability to control the narrative, drip-feed innovation, and still deliver surprises is what keeps collectors on their toes. As we wait for Watches & Wonders 2025, it’s worth remembering that while we can make all the predictions in the world, Rolex will do what Rolex does best—keep us talking.

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