The Roundup: the “Stick of Butter” Edition

Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch.

Big Players, Big Drops, Big Blue Energy

Let’s face it, the horological community has long been entranced by the color of both sky and sea. From dials to lume, blue steeled hands to straps, the color of peace and tranquility is once again having a moment. (And by moment, we mean the watch world  is even more deeply entrenched in a blue period.) Thankfully, brands have gotten more playful, spanning beyond the classic primary color to incorporate the full spectrum — electric to ultramarine, cerulean to sapphire. This week, that color story continues with new models from Parmigiani Fleurier and Breitling.

As a follow up to its Limited Edition Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue that launched last month, the maison presented an even more minimalist version with the new Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue. Same gorgeous play on color, with a soft and soothing tone, different stainless steel build and that sweet spot 36mm sizing.

Breitling gave one of the most hyped complications of the moment — the perpetual calendar — the blue treatment with its latest release: the Navitimer Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. The manufacturer Caliber B19 is the brand’s first perpetual calendar movement, only previously released as a part of a limited edition series. The new model becomes a permanent fixture of the brand’s catalog with an icy blue dial.

There have been times it felt like the hue of blue was so popular it frankly became a bit boring. What do we think? Have we hit maximum blue saturation? Or is there room for more?  

The Rise of the Indies?

Two brands came onto my radar last year that I can’t stop thinking about: Ming and Anoma. Ming Thein’s namesake brand was founded in 2017 and has gained momentum the past few years after receiving two GPHG awards: the Horological Revelation Prize in 2019 and the Sports Watch Prize in 2024. Anoma is the brainchild of Matteo Violet-Vianello, whose resume includes a stint at Sotheby’s and A Collected Man as well as serving as an Academy Member of the GPHG.

This week, Ming presented the limited edition Project 21: Horological Omakase. In 2023, the brand hosted a dinner for its collectors in Singapore where the founder was asked how he’d design a watch entirely for himself, within feasible limits, but free of any other constraints. Two years later, Ming answered with a 15-piece limited edition featuring a tantalum case along with a 5N rose gold coated dial and matching movement with 5N rose gold coated bridges.

Presenting the second chapter in its A1 series, Anoma’s A1 Slate reprises the brand’s signature triangular case, which extends concentrically on the dial. This time, the dial shifts between smooth gloss and sharp two- tone contrast thanks to vertical brushing engraved with contrasting triangles and finished with three layers of black lacquer.

Awards Season Reached Its Climax

Did you tune in? Jeff Goldblum continued to flex his wrist game in a bold pink gold moon phase from Vacheron Constantin. Edward Norton also opted for a model from VC, albeit a more low-key Historiques 222 37mm in steel. Cartier put its prowess in the way of jewelry watches on full display on the wrists of Timothée Chalamet and Elle Fanning. The memes were immediate: Chalamet’s look, a custom yellow Givenchy suit with an 18-karat yellow gold Mini Baignoire with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires = stick of butter. To refrigerate or not? 

Alternatively, Fanning gave us old Hollywood glam with a Zelda Fine Jewelry Watch decked in diamonds. The most IYKYK moment of Oscars watch spotting came with not one but two cameos from Moser on the wrists of Julian Noisecat, who sported the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack in steel and Cole Walliser, who wore the Streamliner Tourbillon in rose gold.