The Roundup: “Watches and Wonders” Edition

Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Sunday! Thanks for joining us for this special weekend edition amid the industry’s biggest trade show: Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025.

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, a whopping 60 brands took over PalExpo while indies popped up all around Geneva for the most significant moment in the watch industry for the year in the heart of horology itself. Of course, in typical fashion, Rolex did its best to steal the show with its debut of a totally new collection to round out its domination of sea, air, and now land with the Land-Dweller, but our team here at EWC was taken with plenty other brands and the exceptional offerings they put on display this week.

If you’ve been following along with Crown & Caliber’s Instagram stories or our daily wrap ups live from Boston every night at 5 PM EDT on European Watch Company’s YouTube channel, you might already be pretty well versed in the new releases hitting the market at this year’s weeklong event. Perhaps you’ve already clocked a model that really surprised you, one you can’t wait to buy, or the MVP you’ve just been gushing over. Here are some of our top picks from the team at EWC.

The Watches That Surprised Us the Most

Cait Bazemore: No shade to Chanel, but historically, the Maison’s expertise has been in the realm of fashion over watches. Sure, collections like the J12 have accumulated a cult following, and the brand certainly knows how to nail a sautoir, but when it comes to high horology, Chanel is not the first, second, or third name that comes to mind. This is why the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon quite literally stunned me at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Here, you don’t just have a flying tourbillon — in the center of the cage, you have a 0.18-carat round brilliant-cut white diamond.

Alexandra Cheney: For Panerai to take its core modern collection, its best-sellers, and thoughtfully improve them says a lot about the company. They don’t need to. Luminor Marina’s sell themselves. Watch brands constantly feel the need to chase superlatives, doing the most, the best, the newest, the greatest.

And yet, Panerai surprisingly decided to look within the company and refine a very clear, well-selling product. A list of what the brand did with this refresh: improve the movement, reduce the overall thickness by 12%, upgrade the quality (PAM Click release), finishing (the bracelet has a new 4mm quick micro-adjust built in and display caseback) and water resistance all while preserving the textbook Panerai characteristics – the sandwich dial, the 44mm size. Still absolutely a Panerai, just all around better.

Craig Karger: The release that surprised me most was undoubtedly the 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus. After the launch of the 45mm Cubitus, I had heard that Patek Philippe had no immediate plans to offer a smaller variant. Therefore, seeing the introduction of the 40mm version was definitely a pleasant surprise. Personally, I find the 40mm Cubitus significantly more wearable and balanced compared to its larger 45mm counterpart.

Robert Reustle: Patek Philippe has been consistently moving the brand forward by offering watches that feel very different from the old guard. I never expected them to revisit the classic Calatrava like this. It’s actually something I’ve wanted to see from them for a long time, and I think they nailed it with this release of the 6196p.

Justin MacDowell: With the new G.F.J., Zenith revived a movement (the Caliber 135) that had been out of production for more than 60 years and housed it in a 39mm platinum case with a gorgeous lapis lazuli and mother of pearl dial. Who does that?

The Watches We Would Actually Buy with Our Own Money

Cait Bazemore: In this current moment, my approach to watch purchasing isn’t about limited editions, record-breakers, safe bets that will retain value, or the most technically complex. My buying habits are simply about one thing — joy — a watch that just makes me feel good. Period. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, there was one collection that fully embodied this, so much so it was literally in the name: the Hublot Big Bang One Click Joyful. I’ll take one in every color.

Alexandra Cheney: Celebrations are in order. Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary with a series of limited releases. Certified by the Hallmark of Geneva, which represents the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking, the Patrimony Self-Winding is an exercise in beautiful restraint. All too often brands over-complicate watches that could benefit from a strong editor. Vacheron’s Patrimony Self-Winding features a decorative pattern inspired by the Maltese cross – the brand’s emblem – created specifically for the 270th-anniversary collection and the date. That’s it. Stunning simplicity brilliantly executed in 40mm white gold that’s 8.65mm thick and powered by an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. Limited edition of 370, one of which I would proudly own.

Craig Karger: My personal pick is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold, presented on their new Milanese bracelet. The Reverso pairs beautifully with the Milanese bracelet, making it surprising that Jaeger-LeCoultre has not explored this combination sooner. Plus, the matching of the pink gold case and dial is understated but classy.

Robert Reustle: Of all the new editions from H. Moser & Cie.’s Pop collection, I’d pick the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept with Pink Opal and Burmese Jade. This colorway is immediately super appealing to me. It showcases the tourbillon without distracting from it, and it’s very exclusive with only eight pieces being produced.

Justin MacDowell: I really, really want the limited edition Platinum Oblique version of the new Cartier  Privé Tank à Guichets but would be happy with yellow or rose gold too. Now to figure out which pieces I need to sell from my collection to make space…

Our MVPs

Cait Bazemore: A. Lange & Söhne has celebrated its 180^th birthday in style with a trio of new releases that are each stunning in their own right. However, for me, the MVP is the new set of 1815s. This is classic watchmaking at its finest — the kind of timepiece that will transcend generations and look just as great now as it will another 180 years from now. The 34mm stunners in pink or white gold mark the most compact editions to join the Maison’s catalog and quite literally look perfect on any wrist.

Alexandra Cheney: Unquestionably a beautiful timepiece, the Chopard L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 secured MVP status for me because the base movement was co-developed with apprentices from the Geneva School of Watchmaking. It’s one thing to have your in-house watchmakers accomplish incredible feats, and it’s quite another to train the next generation all the while creating the new L.U.C 63.04-L, an astronomical moon phase module with a meticulousness so precise, the watch will only need a one-day adjustment once every 122 years and 45 days. Limited to 20 pieces and measuring 44mm across with a thickness of 12.7mm, the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 is a multi-leveled statement. New horological endeavors, new minds at work, while maintaining heritage thanks to the signature L.U.C dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands.

Craig Karger: While everyone is rightly excited about the Rolex Land-Dweller and its groundbreaking Dynapulse escapement, I believe Grand Seiko deserves recognition for the most technically impressive release this year. The Grand Seiko UFA SLGB001 (platinum) and SLGB003 (titanium) feature an exceptional new Spring Drive movement, achieving an astonishing accuracy of ±20 seconds per year — not per day, week, or month but per year! Additionally, the titanium version introduces Grand Seiko’s first-ever micro-adjustable clasp, something collectors have been asking for a long time.

Robert Reustle: With the A. Lange & Söhne Perpetual Calendar Repeater, the brand created a very complicated watch in a very wearable size with classic old school Lange styling. Black enamel dial with one of the nicest moonphase indicators I’ve ever seen. Super luxury, super watchmaking, and super stealthy all at the same time.

Justin MacDowell: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is the most complicated wristwatch in the world. Enough said.