It’s Hip To Be Square: 3 Vintage Watches Ripe For A Comeback 

In the wake of the recent Cubitus launch, Patek Philippe has gotten many tongues wagging. Personally, I think it’s a nice-looking watch. Perhaps a little larger than I’d like, but I’ll reserve the final judgment for the day I get one on the wrist. While the general watch community jury is still out on the Cubitus itself, Patek has unwittingly started something of a trend, putting non-round watch design from the mid-late 20th century back in the limelight. 

Microbrands can often be seen as barometers for popular trends, mercilessly jumping on anything they deem to be even a whiff of a possible trend. We’ve seen several square/rectangular cased launches that take more than a passing inspiration from beautiful vintage watches. Even prestigious publications like the NY Times have written about one of the microbrand “homages” without crediting the obvious inspiration. 

Compared to the real McCoy, these cheaper “inspired-by” pieces just don’t cut the mustard, so I think the time is right for some of the OGs to make their great comeback. With the Cubitus setting the stage for non-round watches and getting people talking about them with newfound excitement and enthusiasm, I picked three of my favorite vintage watches that are ripe for a return to the wrists of the watch community. 

Rolex King Midas 

The Rolex King Midas, introduced in the 1960s, is one of the brand’s most unconventional designs. Known for its angular, asymmetrical shape and use of solid gold for the heavy case and bracelet, the King Midas was named after the Greek legend of King Midas, whose touch turned everything to gold. Gérald Genta designed the watch, and you could argue that everything he touched turned to gold, too, as far as watch design goes, but that’s a conversation for another day. The design departed from Rolex’s typically conservative, round watches, showcasing the brand’s willingness to innovate at the time. It also has a place in pop culture history, famously worn by Elvis Presley and even a Bond villain. In the 1974 film The Man with the Golden Gun, the watch is seen on Francisco Scaramanga’s wrist, played by Christopher Lee. 

There is a strong argument for the revival of the King Midas, as modern luxury watch trends lean increasingly toward distinctive and iconic designs that stand out in a somewhat saturated market. Today’s luxury watch buyers appreciate heritage and individuality, often looking for pieces that serve as conversation starters. With its radical design and legendary background, the King Midas would appeal to a new generation of buyers who value such bold aesthetics. Rolex would be sure to strike gold once again. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rectangular 6005

Next up, Audemars Piguet’s Rectangular Royal Oak was a lesser-known and distinctive extension of the legendary Royal Oak line, introduced in the late 1980s. While the original Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta, became an icon with its octagonal bezel and integrated

bracelet, the Rectangular version took a different approach. It did not come from Genta’s hand, but it retained the original’s hallmark features, such as the tapisserie dial and signature screws, while transforming them into a rectangular form. The Rectangular Royal Oak offered an alternative interpretation of the Royal Oak’s bold aesthetic, presenting a more streamlined and formal take on the design. This model, with its mix of avant-garde styling and subtle references to the original Royal Oak, was produced in very limited numbers, and today, it has become a rare piece, sought after by collectors looking for a hit of Royal Oak-flavored quirkiness. 

Reviving the Royal Oak Rectangular would be a powerful statement from Audemars Piguet in today’s market. I could understand the brand’s hypothetical hesitance, given how coldly the Code 11:59 was initially received. Still, a reimagined Rectangular Royal Oak would appeal to a new audience of watch enthusiasts who appreciate the brand’s legacy yet seek something more unconventional. If the Le Brassus brand needed some encouragement, Zenith has proven how carefully considered reissues of classic models from the back catalog can elevate a brand in the eyes of the wider watch-collecting community. This resurrection would allow Audemars Piguet to reintroduce a piece of its own history in a way that feels both nostalgic and contemporary, providing an option for those who admire the Royal Oak’s heritage but crave a design that is a little less octagonal. 

Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal 2215

My final pick is the Vacheron Constantin Royal Chronometer. Originally released in the 1970s, it was a unique addition to the brand’s storied lineup and its first integrated bracelet watch. Designed with precision and durability, the Royal Chronometer combined a sporty silhouette with the refined, intricate craftsmanship for which Vacheron Constantin is known. The watch’s clean lines, sturdy case, and exceptional accuracy were a nod to the brand’s commitment to creating timepieces that could withstand the elements without sacrificing sophistication. Its distinct style set it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s more classically styled pieces, making it a collector’s gem and a cult favorite among luxury sports watches of the era. 

Judging by the popularity of microbrands unabashedly imitating this classic silhouette, there’s clearly an appetite and appreciation for it. Obviously, it’d be far better to be able to go straight to the source. As such, a modern revival of the Royal Chronometer would only be a good thing. Today’s market has seen a strong resurgence of interest in vintage-inspired sports watches, and a reimagined Royal Chronometer could update its original design with modern materials and perhaps one of the brand’s lovely ultra-thin movements, all while staying true to its sporty yet luxurious appeal. This re-release could reaffirm Vacheron Constantin’s reputation as a brand capable of blending tradition with contemporary style. I’m all in for this, are you?