Building the Perfect 3 Watch Collection at 3 Price-Points

The Three Watch Collection. If you’ve spent time around watch enthusiasts, or are one yourself, you’ve undoubtedly encountered the concept of the ultimate collection of three watches— a set of timepieces perfectly curated to your preference that suits all your needs. Some collectors may have more, others less, but 3 watch collections allow for just the right mix of pieces such that even without a large watch collection, you can explore watches that suit your tastes while providing versatility and variety. 

There are an infinite number of philosophies collectors will use in assembling the ideal collection. I know many that only collect watches of a particular variety– dress watches, dive watches, Patek Philippe watches, calendar complications, chronographs, and so on. For the collector that knows what they like and how to get it, this may be the perfect approach for you. But today, we are looking at the average enthusiast. Perhaps you work in the office and need a dressier piece, but on the weekends you want something a bit more pedestrian, and when you’re swimming, you need some waterproof spec. If you stick your toes a bit into each department, this collection guide will be perfect for you. 

We will analyze three watch collections showcasing a dress watch, sports watch, and everyday offering at three price points. You can mix and match these categories however you choose best fits your lifestyle. Let’s get started. 

Dress Watches

Our first dress watch, coming in well under $10,000, is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon. With many of the fundamental ingredients of a fantastic dress watch— a simple dial, minimalist design, slim package, alligator strap, elegant finishing etc— this reference is a perfect dress watch available at an incredible value. JLC is also one of the most respected watchmakers in the industry, and it’s quite reassuring to know that for under $10,000, you can get a watch from one of the top watchmakers that perfectly suits its category. To top it all off, this watch incorporates a beautiful moonphase complication, giving a taste of the haute horology world at an accessible price point. 

Moving up the price bracket, at $30,000-$40,000, our next watch is a A. Lang & Sohne Lange 1 “Stealth”. Named for its under the radar platinum case, the Lange 1 “Stealth” is a collector favorite among Lange enthusiasts. The Lange 1 is the flagship model from Lange, first introduced in the inaugural collection of 1994. Ever since its introduction, the model has enjoyed a special reputation as the brand’s flagship. The platinum variant, easily mistakable for white gold or platinum, is particularly collectible, and would make for a fantastic, asymmetrical dial dress piece to enhance any collection.

Finally, at the top end of the market– owning the six figure stature it deserves— is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5074. A minute repeater perpetual calendar, the reason I’ve chosen to include this piece is it perfectly exemplifies the essence of what complicated dress watchmaking should be. It’s complicated, it’s well executed, it’s beautifully finished, and it’s made with a brand that has built its reputation on mastering this line of work. Coming in at 42mm in rose gold with a movement made with over 450 individual components— each finished to perfection— this watch is sure to be a staple in any collection of any stature. 

Sports Watches

The sports watch category likely gets the most attention these days— and for good reason. With the surge in popularity of more casual working environments, and greater emphasis on exploring the outdoors, watch fashion has followed suit. The number of people that actually need a dress watch has dwindled, even if the dress watch deserves its place in your collection. For this, the sports watch is a great option. 

For our entry level piece, I’m going to recommend a classic– any of the black bay models from Tudor, but specifically, in this case, the Black Bay 58. The BB 58 is no sleeper watch. Almost every enthusiast has encountered the model, and whether you find that boring or exciting, you are likely to recognize that the BB 58 is popular for a reason. It gets the classic proportions of a vintage diver right, yet with the spec and finishing touches of a modern watch. In so many ways the Black Bay 58 is a perfect watch, and will hold its own next to any diver. 

Moving upmarket, our next pick is a rare Vacheron Constantin Overseas example, the “Everest” edition. Made in only 150 pieces and presented in 2021, this unique piece was made as a tribute to the original prototype Vacheron made for Cory Richards’ Everest expedition. That model sold at auction for a hefty sum, and became the basis for this limited edition. This piece is fashioned from stainless steel with a titanium darker bezel, and features a beautifully grained blue dial. The dual time functionality makes use of orange accents, and really just adds a touch of color to what is otherwise a subdued design. As a whole, this is a really cool watch presented in a collectible and attractive package. 

Finally, for our high end offering, I think it just makes sense to go with this distinctive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon. While not nearly as robust as the previous two pieces in the category, I think this sports watch speaks to the idolization of the sports aesthetic— whether the watch is meant to be used in that context or not. This piece, made from titanium, features a different grained dial unlike the standard tapisserie layout we are used to. Additionally, at six o’clock, a flying tourbillon function is visible through an aperture display. The result is a scintillating revolving tourbillon that is guaranteed to blissfully distract you throughout the day. It’s a work of art, but it’s also built on AP’s resilient Royal Oak platform, with all the sports DNA you could ask for. Give this watch a try and you will see what we’re talking about, this was a complete home run for Audemars Piguet. 

Everyday Watches

The perfect everyday watch falls somewhere in between the sports and dress offerings. It doesn’t lean too far into either category, but it provides some of the advantages of both categories. For example, you’ll get the simpler, more refined aesthetics befitting a dress watch and the sportier spec associated with sports watches. These pieces are fantastic for your weekend activities, or even just relaxing at home. 

First is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. A perfect representation of many of Rolex’s key contributions to the watch industry, the OP features a water resistant case, automatic winding movement, simple dial layout, and a whole host of dial colors to choose from. It may not have the flash or street cred of some of the brand’s louder models, but it is everything that makes Rolex a great watch, and it’s extremely versatile. You could wear this watch with jeans or a suit and no one would bat an eyelash. It’s just a simply beautiful watch, and available under $10,000. 

For our next piece, we are going with a watch that doesn’t get discussed often– the Patek Philippe, Ref. 5924G. A pilot’s style piece from Patek, this watch has a travel timer and a chronograph integrated in one. It’s a bit more pedestrian than most Patek Philippe watches which helps it stand out from the collections. That said, it’s green dial will undoubtedly turn heads, and the automatic winding CH 28-520 C FUS is quite exceptional within. This piece may not be the first thing that comes to mind when we say Patek Philippe, but that’s really part of the charm. 

Finally, no buyer’s guide from European Watch Company would be complete without an F.P. Journe. Journe is a tough brand to categorize. Most of their watches lean dress, but there’s a sporty solidity to their pieces that’s very hard to describe— you just have to sort of experience it. This last piece is an Octa Perpetuelle, an extremely rare production run of perpetual calendar pieces based on the Octa Calendrier annual calendar base. It may look like a dress watch, but it’s fashioned from titanium and features a full metal bracelet instead of a dressier alligator strap. The confluence of both complication, and wearability, and executed by the best in the biz, this is the ultimate everyday watch.