Bold & Exceptional: the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium

Independent watchmakers have always existed, but never have they enjoyed the sort of visibility that they do today. Indies, as they’re commonly referred to, are the rockstars, virtuosos and white whales of watch collecting, all rolled into one. No longer are these makers loners working long hours in their ateliers, but revered names, commanding respect and, in many cases, significant premiums for their work. One of the greatest names in the modern era is Romain Gauthier. His Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium is a perfect example of what makes him so remarkable.

History

Romain Gauthier is one of the quiet achievers of independent watchmaking. Gauthier himself was born in 1975, and cut his teeth at François Golay, a parts manufacturer now part of the Swatch Group. By the time Gauthier left to set up his own eponymous business in 2005, he had developed the skills and abilities to design and create watches of his own, starting with the Prestige HM, which was released in 2007, and set the tone for Gauthier’s brand. This debut watch already showed that Romain Gauthier was all about the fundamentals of classical watchmaking. The finishing is superb, immediately placing Gauthier in the same league of finishing as contemporaries like Philippe Dufour and Kari Voutilainen.

Over the years, Romain Gauthier’s work has only become better, more confident and more complex, with pieces like the chain driven Logical One standing out as peerless example of contemporary, classical watch design.

In 2017, Romain Gauthier added another string to his bow — the Insight Micro Rotor. Since then it’s become one of the most desirable pieces from the atelier, combining everything that makes Romain Gauthier one of the most significant makers working today, into a tidy 41.5mm package.

Design Details

This particular example, the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro Rotor Squelette Carbonium, leans heavily towards the more contemporary side of the brand’s offering — adding modern materials and an open-worked aesthetic to that exceptional craftsmanship. Released in 2020, the most arresting detail of this watch is, understandably, the case.

Carbonium is one of the many flavours of composite carbon materials — typically used in aerospace and high-end automotive applications for its lightweight and high strength; in watchmaking, materials like Carbonium are prized not only because of these material properties but also because of the fact that it looks exceptionally cool. Adding to the ultra-modern aesthetic is the bright blue rubber dial, off-centre Carbonium dial and a movement which, for all its traditional techniques, would look perfectly at home in a sci-fi movie.

Inner Workings

Visually, this movement is remarkable — it isn’t just the bridges that have been open-worked, but the wheels of the gear train too. The effect is stunning, and the result of a lot of hard work. There are over 250 hours of anglage work alone on this calibre, an absolutely stunning number that represents over a month of work — on a single finishing technique. What makes it even more impressive is that Romain Gauthier opted to make this squelette version out of titanium, a material far harder than more traditional brass parts but also a far stronger material, which is beneficial on an opened-up movement like this. Titanium is typically used in more industrial, tool-like applications, so to see it worked here with all the finesse of more forgiving metals is impressive indeed.

As far as tech specs go, the movement is no slouch, either. The titanium components cut down the weight — the entire movement (including the gold micro-rotor) weighs a shade under 16 grams (or a little more than as a compact disk for those old enough to remember them). With hours, minutes and small seconds, there’s 80 hours of power reserve afforded by the 22-karat gold micro-rotor, which you can see in all its free-spinning glory from both the front and the back.

Versus the Competition 

When it comes to holding Romain Gauthier up to his contemporaries, there are a few obvious comparisons. His finishing stands in company with the likes of Philippe Dufour and Greubel Forsey, perhaps more the latter in terms of overall aesthetics. In fact, with its matching blue strap and sumptuous front-facing design, you could easily think this GMT Balencier Convexe Titanium is a close cousin. Though in a side by side comparison, the Greubel Forsey takes it when it comes to finish and sheet wow factor of the exposed calibre. 

You could also make a solid argument for this watch being in the same ballpark as F.P. Journe — especially his sportier options, like the Octa Sport. While the gold case and bracelet combination lends the watch a more traditional sports watch air, there’s a rebellious, independent spirit at the heart of the Octa Sport that definitely feels in the same league as Romain Gauthier. 

Another brand that offers a comparable feel to Romain Gauthier, albeit with a very differetn aesthetic is De Bethune. De Bethune’s watches are defined by a space-age aesthetic and plenty of mirro-polished titanium, but there’s a shared commitment to innovation and an incredible level of finish (as you can see on this stunning DB27 Titan Hawk) that would be worth considering if Romain Gauthier is your speed.

Finally, it might seem like a stretch, aesthetically speaking, but when it comes to quality of finish and exclusivity, the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium holds up very well against Richard Mille. In fact, compared to Richard Mille, this Romain Gauthier offers tremendous value.

Personality 

As we said right at the top of this review, there’s an under-the-radar element to Romain Gauthier. While contemporaries like F.P. Journe and Richard Mille have become more widely recognised, Romain Gauthier is still very much a connoisseur’s choice.

Add to that the fact that this Carbonium-cased squelette Micro Rotor is one of Gauthier’s more uncharacteristic designs, it paints a picture of wearer who knows their stuff and knows what they like. This isn’t the safe, or the obvious choice, but for someone who only accepts the highest quality, and isn’t afraid to have a little fun with their wrist wear, it’s an exceptional choice.

Final Thoughts 

Romain Gauthier is in many ways the epitome of ‘if you know, you know’ — something that is becoming increasingly uncommon in the politely competitive world of independent watchmaking. He’s a maker with the history, the experience and undoubtedly the skills to be considered one of the greatest watchmakers of the last 30 or so years. If you don’t believe us, believe Chanel. The fashion house has made a habit of investing in some of the best independent makers. They invested in Romain Gauthier in 2011, well before taking similar stakes in F.P. Journe in 2018 and MB&F in 2024.

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