The 30 Best Platinum Watches at European Watch Company

Truth be told, platinum can be hard to distinguish from white gold and even stainless steel. Sure platinum is a little whiter than white gold with its warm undertones and it has a richer and deeper hue than steel, but let’s be honest, most of us can’t tell the difference. The logical question becomes then, why wear a platinum watch? For one, platinum is the most exclusive of the precious metals with many brands offering their most important timepieces exclusively in the metal. That may be reason enough, but there is another to wear a platinum watch. You’ve probably heard the term “stealth wealth” thrown around a lot recently, and many collectors like being able to wear an expensive and exclusive timepiece without anybody knowing. Platinum watches are the ultimate display of silent luxury. Take a look at our list of 30 amazing platinum watches that have come through European Watch Company’s doors including dress watches, sport/tool watches, and everyday wears, and let us know which is your pick!

Dress Watches

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F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Nacre

F.P. Journe is known for their unique design aesthetic as well as their beautifully finished movements. And while the Chronomètre Souverain Nacre has both, the star of the show on this watch is most certainly the dial. The dial is fashioned from blue mother of pearl, which at first glance might not be noticeable, but on closer inspection, gives the watch a unique shimmer that pairs beautifully with the Clous de Paris guilloché pattern of the inner dial. While the case is platinum, the manual-wind movement is 18k rose gold, offering a striking contrast. Each layer of the movement is finished differently, showcasing Journe’s extreme attention to detail. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Nacre is the perfect choice for someone looking for a platinum dress watch that is uniquely Journe.

Cartier Crash Skeleton Limited Edition Ref. W7200001

The Cartier Crash Skeleton stands out to us among platinum dress watches for a few reasons. First and foremost, the Crash is iconic. It is one of, if not the most distinctive designs in the history of watchmaking. Second, the Crash Skeleton’s openworked dial is incredibly well-executed. The Roman numeral hour markers not only indicate time, but are also integrated into the movement itself. And finally, for those of us that love the Crash, the platinum skeleton is one of the rarest ever made, limited to just 67 pieces. If you are looking for a platinum dress watch that makes a serious statement, the Cartier Crash Skeleton in platinum is a great option.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 “STEALTH” Ref. 101.025

Why have collectors nicknamed the Lange 1 Ref. 101.025 the “Stealth”? Well, this platinum piece is the perfect dress watch to stealthily display your wealth. The platinum case could easily be mistaken for white gold or steel, and the silver dial is the epitome of understatement. Add to that the fact that this Lange 1 is just 38.5mm and easily slips under a cuff, and you have yourself the perfect under the radar heavy hitter of a watch.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback Ref. 403.035 

You will rarely see us put a chronograph in the dress watch category, but the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback is clearly a worthy exception. With its classic case shape, restrained German aesthetic, and reverse-panda dial configuration, the Datograph seamlessly fits into either the sport or dress category. And when you turn the watch over, the display caseback shows off the caliber L951 manual wind movement which features Lange’s famous finishing. If you are looking for that sports chronograph that can double admirably as a dress watch, the Datograph Flyback Ref. 403.035 is the perfect choice.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chrono Ref. 5204P-011

Contrary to many collectors’ beliefs, a dress watch doesn’t need to be simple. Case in point, the Ref. 5204P-011 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph is the perfect example of a well-executed dress watch with some serious complications. Packed inside of its 40mm platinum case, the 5204P-011 not only boasts a split seconds chronograph but a perpetual calendar as well. But even with all these complications, the 5204P is understated. The high polished case and inky black dial are perfect for those looking for a grand complication that will fly under the radar.

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738P

Simple, elegant, and unique: that’s how we would describe the iconic Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738P. With a design that was guided by the “golden ratio” discovered by ancient Greek mathematicians, the Golden Ellipse features traditional stick hands and hour markers housed in an elliptical platinum case that sits somewhere between a circle and a rectangle. The watch also has a sunray blue dial that adds a little bit of extra character. At 34.5mm in diameter (without lugs) and only 5.9mm thick, the Golden Ellipse is an iconic dress watch that is a bold departure from traditional watch shapes.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170P-001

The 5170P is one of our all-time favorite platinum pieces due to its understated elegance. The watch has a stunning yet subtle sunray blue dial that doesn’t overwhelm the eye and the hour markers are baguette diamonds, but that’s a detail that might be missed if you don’t look closely. Opting for bi-compax subdials (for the seconds and chronograph minutes) keeps the dial clean and elegant. Housed in a 39.4mm platinum case, this chronograph had a very short production run and is now discontinued making the 5170P a grail for many Patek collectors.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-001

Salmon dial watches seem to be on-trend these days. You can even read about our 15 favorite salmon dial watches here. When it comes to salmon dial watches, there is none more recognizable than the platinum Patek Philippe Ref. 5270P-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Often featured on highly complicated timepieces, salmon dials always look at home on Patek’s most traditional offerings. First introduced in 2018, the 5270P is a nice fusion of modern sizing (41mm) and traditional design. When it comes to a platinum dress watch with salmon dial (or without!), you can’t go wrong with the 5270P-001.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Ref. 6000T/000P-B347

Nowadays, tourbillon watches come in all shapes and sizes, but traditionally, they were most often utilized in dress watches. In our opinion, Vacheron Constantin produces some of the best traditional tourbillons on the market today. Among our favorites is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Ref. 6000T/000P-B-347 in platinum. The watch itself is very traditional in style, but the matte textured platinum dial with applied indices adds a little bit of modernity. That being said, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the true focal point of this watch. If you look closely, you will notice that the tourbillon bridge is in the shape of Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross logo. A very nice touch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre a Spherotourbillon Ref. Q6056590

At 42mm in diameter by 14mm thick, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometer a Spherotourbillon is on the larger side for a dress watch, but hear us out! Yes, in addition to a tourbillon the watch includes a power reserve indicator and GMT function, but its design is actually quite traditional. Well, at least until you get to the tourbillon, or “spherotourbillon” to be exact. The watch’s multiple-axis tourbillon rotates in two distinct directions at 30 and 15 second intervals and is really something special to watch. This kind of horological innovation is something we’ve come to expect from the “watchmaker’s watchmaker”. Wearing the Duometre a Spherotourbillon to your next formal occasion will surely get people talking.

Sports/Tool Watches

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5520P-001

While we generally see Patek Philippe’s grand complications in more classic expressions, this is not always the case. Case in point: the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5520P-001. This pilot’s watch from Patek features not only the ability to track two time zones (home and local times) but a 24-hour alarm function. At 42mm in diameter and with crowns and buttons jutting out from both sides of the case, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is truly a bold wear. At the same time though, it’s actually rather understated. While that statement may seem contradictory, it’s really not. With it’s modern pilot-inspired aesthetic, you wouldn’t think the watch has a solid platinum case or a minute repeater hammer and gong system for the alarm. If you want a solid tool watch that carries the cache of a grand complication, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001 is a great option.

Patek Philippe Jumbo Nautilus Ref. 5711/1P-010

The stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711, discontinued in 2021, might be the most sought after sport watch on the market. And the Nautilus 5711/1P-010 might be the rarest sub-variant. At first glance, you might mistake it for the steel variation of the Nautilus, due to its silver-colored case and blue dial. When handling it, however, you’ll quickly notice that the blue dial is a little brighter and the heft of the watch indicates it is not your standard stainless steel. Interestingly, this watch was never officially in Patek Philippe’s catalog, and it is estimated that less than 20 were ever made. If you want the ultimate stealth wealth watch, find yourself a 5711/1P-010.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Platinum Baguette Diamond Dial Ref. 116506

No chronograph is more famous than the Rolex Daytona and we would argue that the Daytona is also the most recognizable platinum watch. The Ref. 116506 features a platinum case and bracelet, brown ceramic bezel and distinctive turquoise blue dial. To top it off, this variation also includes baguette diamond hour markers, bringing the watch to a completely different level. Unlike many other pieces on this list, even though the watch is platinum, it is decidely not understated. Every Rolex collector knows that the baby blue dial indicates platinum, so if you are looking for a platinum watch that will grab some attention, check out the “Playtona” Ref. 116506.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Ref. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01

When it was released in 2019, the Ref. 26586IP Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar timepiece, coming in at just 6.3mm thick. Crafted in 41mm of titanium and platinum, the watch blends Genta’s traditional Royal Oak design with a more modern satin-brushed dial without the traditional Grande Tapisserie decoration. This allows an uncluttered view of the watch’s multiple complications, including a moon phase, date, month, leap year, and day/night complications.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak YOSHIDA Ref. 26597PT.OO.1220PT.01

If you are looking for a more traditional Royal Oak that features a perpetual calendar, Audemars Piguet produces offers quite a few options. One of our favorites is the limited edition Ref. 26597PT with black Grande Tapisserie dial. More understated than many of the other Royal Oak perpetual calendars, the Ref. 26597PT was produced in a limited edition of just 20 total pieces for Japan-based retailer Yoshida. Beyond its more traditional aesthetic, the black dial doesn’t give away the fact that the watch is platinum. If you are looking to purchase one though, beware. These were only available for Yoshida’s best clients and rarely come up for sale on the secondary market.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph Ref. 26388PO.OO.D027CA.01

25 years after the Genta-designed Royal Oak debuted, Emmanuel Gueit offered his unique take on the model with the Royal Oak Offshore. Though the Offshore was originally met with some skepticism, over the years it has become a mainstay in the Audemars Piguet lineup. Indeed, the Offshore has allowed AP to experiment with the design of the Royal Oak, offering more modern and design-forward interpretations of the iconic piece. The Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph Ref. 26388PO is a watch that takes the basic ingredients of the Royal Oak and remixes them to create something completely unique. Featuring a platinum case and ceramic bezel, the watch’s openworked dial looks like something out of a science-fiction movie. The tourbillon at 9 o’clock has an aluminum bridge over it, playing into to the watch’s brooding, futuristic design. If you are looking for an avant-garde piece with iconic design cues, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph Ref. 26388PO is for you.

Omega Speedmaster Moon Phase Skeleton Ref. 3688.30.32

The Omega Speedmaster’s heritage revolves entirely around the fact that it was the first watch to go to the moon. However, since the original “Moonwatch”, Omega has built out the Speedmaster collection with countless different styles and complications. One of the most unique Speedies produced to date is the platinum skeletonized Speedmaster Moonphase. Omega’s manual wind caliber 3604A Swiss movement has been skeletonized, engraved, and hand finished by master watchmaker Armin Strom, and date and moon phase complications have been added. A limited edition of only 57 pieces, this Speedmaster is among the most unique you will ever find. 

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The Centrigraphe Souverain is one of the most uniquely F.P. Journe timepieces in terms of design and we love it for that.  The watch features a chronograph capable of timing events in 1/100th of a second, 20-second, and 10-minute increments, all powered by separate wheel trains, which are each in turn driven by the center of the mainspring. One of the rarest pieces in F.P. Journe’s catalog, the platinum variation with salmon colored dial seen here is one of only a few believed to have been made.

F.P Journe Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

Part of F.P. Journe’s LineSport collection, the Monopussoir Rattrapante is a heavy hitting platinum rattrapante chronograph with an 80-hour power reserve. The long reserve is impressive considering the large two-digit date window at 6 o’clock requires significantly more energy than a typical date. Though the watch appears to have standard chronograph push-buttons, it is actually a monopusher. The pusher at 2 o’clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph, while the pusher at 4 o’clock controls the rattrapante function. Recently, Journe has been experimenting with more adventurous colorways, and the purple dial on the Monopussoir Rattrapante is truly a delight. If you are a fan of Journe and his quirky design aesthetic, we’d highly recommend the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante.

Breitling Navitimer Rattrapante Ref. L3403012I

The Breitling Navitimer is one of the best known pilot’s watches on the market. Featuring a slide rule bezel, the Navitimer was designed to allow pilots to quickly make calculations while in the air. While most modern Navitimers have stayed true to their tool watch heritage, you will occasionally see a piece that offers a little more. The Ref. L3403012I is Breitling’s traditional Navitimer, only in platinum, with a rattrapante complication, and limited to just 25 pieces. Nobody will have a clue how impressive this Navitimer is on your wrist, so if you’re looking to fly (way) under the radar with your platinum watch, this is a great choice.

Everyday Wear

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Rolex Day Date Ref. 228206

The Day-Date is one of the few Rolex models that is only offered in precious metals. And while you can get both gold and platinum Day-Dates, the popular ice-blue dial is only available in platinum. This Ref. 228206 not only has the distinctive dial, but also baguette diamond indexes, adding even more luxury to Rolex’s most opulent model. The piece also comes on a platinum President bracelet, one of the most comfortable (and recognizable) bracelets made by the Crown (or any brand for that matter). If you are looking for a classic platinum timepiece that can be dressed up or down, the Day-Date Ref. 228206 is for you.

Patek Philippe In Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001

Introduced in 2021, the Patek Philippe In Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001 has to be the cleanest perpetual calendar we have seen from the brand. Aptly named the “In Line Perpetual Calendar” due to the distinctive display (which was based on a vintage ref. P-1450Patek Philippe pocket watch), the rest of the watch is fairly uncluttered, aside from a moonphase and running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Modern in style, but historical in its roots, the In Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-001 is one of our favorite perpetual calendars in Patek Philippe’s catalog.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905P

The perpetual calendar, while an amazing complication, can be cumbersome to set and keep accurate. Therefore, if you are not committed to keeping the time set correctly and running at all times, perhaps it isn’t for you. Thankfully, Patek Philippe offers the annual calendar which might make sense for someone looking for a complication that doesn’t require as much attention. In particular, the Ref. 5905P Annual Calendar Chronograph fuses chronograph and annual calendar complications in a very clean and easy to use way. While the 5905P is still a very pricey watch on the secondary market, it is a user-friendly platinum piece that is incredibly easy to live with.

MB&F Legacy Machine Ref. LM101 51.PL.W

When you think of MB&F, you might immediately think of the “out-there” designs of Max Büsser’s horological machines. The brand’s Legacy Machine line represents something a little more restrained and accessible though, while not losing the uniqueness that makes an MB&F an MB&F. Unlike many of the Horological Machines, the LM101 is extremely legible, with the time subdial at 2 o’clock and the power reserve subdial at 6 o’clock. The watch’s domed crystal allows for the mesmerizing display of the “floating” balance wheel, something we see across both the Horological Machine and Legacy Machine lines.

Moritz Grossmann Backpage Ref. MG-001642

Moritz Grossman was only founded in 2008 after industry veteran Christine Hutter acquired the right to use the name of Karl Moritz Grossmann, the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. Based in Glashütte, Germany, Moritz Grossman watches are incredibly rare, as the brand only produces around 200 pieces a year. More important than their rarity, though, Moritz Grossman makes some incredibly attractive pieces. One of our favorites is the Ref. MG-001642 Backpage. Limited to just 18 pieces, the model has a partially skeletonized blue dial that shows off the inverted movement and hand-engraved balance cock, which sit upside down in the case. We can pretty much guarantee you won’t see another Moritz Grossmann on someone else’s wrist anytime soon, so if you are looking for something truly unique, the Backpage is a great option.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date Ref. 1-37-01-02-03-30

From one Glashütte-based brand to another, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date blends classic and modern aesthetics to create a beautiful everyday wear. The 42mm case has modern lines, yet the blue steel hands are more classic in expression, reminding us a little of Breguet hands. The big date windows at 6 o’clock are a nice additional touch and are reminiscent of those found on more expensive watches, like various models from A. Lange & Sohne. Not inexpensive by any means, the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date is still one of the more affordable platinum watches on this list.

Cartier Santos Dumont XL “La Demoiselle” Ref. WGSA0036

Originally designed for Brazilian pilot and friend of Louis Cartier, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Cartier Santos was the first true pilot’s watch. Extremely legible and with an enduring style, we can see why the Santos remains incredibly popular to this day. Ever since the Santos’ release in 1911, Cartier has worked to expand the model line. One of our favorites is the platinum Santos Dumont XL “La Demoiselle”. Limited to just 30 pieces, the cream colored dial is matte finished on the outer ring and has a central guilloched section with a pattern that is reminiscent of Santos-Dumont’s signature Panama hat.

F.P. Journe Vagabondage III

While the Vagabondage III in platinum may have been the last piece in F.P. Journe’s Vagabondage series, it is definitely our favorite. It features a flat tortue case, skeletonized dial, digital jumping hour and minutes displays, and and the world’s first jumping seconds display. While we love just about everything that F.P. Journe produces, there is something inherently special about the Vagabondage III. You rarely see a skeletonized Journe, let alone one that is this open on the dial side. The Vagabondage III was made in a limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum and is one of the most sought after F.P Journe timepieces on the market.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro Rotor Ref. MON00305

Romain Gauthier has been a leader in the world of independent watchmaking for a while now, with a reputation for creating stunning and unique pieces. One of our favorites is the platinum Insight Micro-Rotor Ref. MON00305. With an 80-hour power reserve and 22k white gold micro-rotor movement, the watch packs quite a lot into a 12.5mm thick platinum case. The micro-rotor, along with other components of the movement, can be seen dial side, with the overlapping time and seconds subdials only taking up a small portion of the dial. A limited edition of just 10 pieces, the Insight Micro Rotor in platinum is a stunning example of what independent watchmakers are capable of. 

Panerai Radiomir 10 Day GMT “Platino” Ref. PAM00495

We won’t hold it against you if you’ve never seen a platinum Panerai. Heck, you might not even know that Panerai produces a platinum watch. Well, if you are looking for a true stealthy platinum watch, look no further than the Ref. PAM00495 Radiomir 10 Day GMT “Platino”. The watch features much of what makes a Panerai … a Panerai, including a sandwich dial with vintage-toned lume, a 10-day power reserve, and an onion crown. On top of that, the watch has a GMT complication and day/night indicator, and, oh yeah, its all housed in a platinum case. Absolutely no one will suspect your Panerai is platinum, and that might be just the reason to buy one.