15 Best Salmon Dial Watches

White, black, blue. It seems that almost every watch on the market today is available with one of these traditional dial colors. Seasoned collectors are always on the lookout for something a little more special, though, and there are other options out there. One niche category that has emerged recently is watches with salmon dials. While watches salmon dials have been around for decades, we have seen a marked increase in interest in the colorway over the past five years. As a result, watch brands have released some of their most iconic pieces with distinctive salmon dials. Salmon dialed vintage and neo-vintage watches have also seen a spike is desirability and value on the secondary market. To make it easier to find that perfect salmon dial watch for your collection, we took a look at 15 of our favorite salmon dial watches that have been through the doors of European Watch Company.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-001

When it comes to watches with salmon dials, perhaps no brand has the sheer amount of variety on offer as Patek Philippe. Often featured on timepieces with complications, salmon watch dials always look at home on Patek’s most traditional offerings. In particular, the platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-001 might be our favorite salmon dial watch from Patek Philippe (or any manufacturer for that matter!). Introduced in 2018, the wristwatch blends modern sizing (41mm) with a traditional design aesthetic. Charcoal gray Arabic numerals hint modern, while the art-deco lugs are more traditional. When it comes to watches with salmon dials, it doesn’t get any better than the 5270P-001.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5372P-010

If you are looking for a grand complication Patek Philippe with a beautiful salmon dial, but the 5270 is a bit too large for you, the Split-Second Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5372P-010 is a great choice. Introduced just a year before the salmon 5270P, the 5372P features a platinum case, perpetual calendar movement, an impressive split-seconds chronograph, and a much smaller 38mm case. It also has a very similar look to the 5270, with similar Arabic hour markers and classic look. If you don’t think you can pull off the size of the 5270, the 5372 is a great alternative.

Patek Philippe Advanced Research Annual Calendar Ref. 5450P-001 Limited Edition

In 2005, Patek Philippe created the Advanced Research Division. According to Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern, “the idea behind this concept was to show the world all the watchmaking knowledge and mastery of Patek Philippe.” Many highly sought after pieces, such as the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G, have been produced as a result of the program. One of our favorites is the Ref. 5450P-001 Annual Calendar. Limited to just 300 pieces total, this watch initially looks like any other Patek annual calendar. The piece was actually produced to showcase the brand’s exclusive Pulsomax escapement though. This escapement includes a silicon based escape wheel and a Spiromax balance spring also made of silicon. These changes increased the reliability, accuracy and efficiency of the Swiss lever escapement, as well as increased the power reserve. Clearly, this watch is a lot more than just your standard Patek Philippe Annual Calendar!

Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5935A-001

The Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5935A-001 was the first of its kind. Released in 2022, it was the first stainless steel version of the 5935 model that was originally released 6 years prior. As a world timer, this watch tracks 24 different time-zones, which are printed in black on two outer dial rings and beyond this, the watch also features a flyback chronograph. Patek Philippe often pairs chronographs with other complications (such as the perpetual calendar models we featured above). The woven carbon motif in the center of the dial adds another point of visual interest and gives the piece a more modern aesthetic. We can safely say that the 5935A is not only one of our favorite salmon watches, but one of our favorite world timers as well.

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The Centrigraphe Souverain model line is one of F.P. Journe’s most recognizable and unique collections from the brand.  Each piece features a chronograph capable of timing events in 1/100th of a second, 20-second, and 10-minute increments, all of which are powered by separate wheel trains, which are each in turn driven by the center of the mainspring. This innovative movement and Journe’s excellent finishings are on full display through the sapphire caseback. This particular example is extremely rare and comes in a platinum case with a matching platinum bracelet. Indeed, only a few pieces in platinum with salmon dial are thought to have been produced.

F.P. Journe Chronometre Resonance Dual Time

The F.P. Journe Chronometre Resonance Dual Time in platinum is a true engineering marvel. The watch is a dual time, with two subdials that indicate the two time-zones. But this is no ordinary dual-time. The in-house Calibre 1499-2 manual wind movement features two escapements, one for each movement, which helps improve the accuracy of the two time-zones. The second time-zone is a 24-hour time-zone and is indicated on the left side of the dial. Collectors have nicknamed this model the “Parking Meter” due to the semi-circle 24-hour subdial at 9:00. With a platinum case and salmon dial, this F.P. Journe Chronometre Resonance Dual Time is a great addition to any enthusiast’s collection.

Daniel Roth Small Seconds Ref. 3103

Perhaps in response to the rising popularity of older indies on the secondary market, Daniel Roth was relaunched by LVMH earlier this year. Prior to the relaunch, Daniel Roth had not produced any watches since 2007 (LVMH acquired the brand in 2011). While we are big fans of new designs released by LVMH, the neo-vintage pieces produced in the early 2000s still hold a special place in the collecting community’s heart. The ref. 3103 Small Seconds with salmon dial is quintessential Daniel Roth. Circa 2000, the watch features the manufacturer’s hallmark double ellipse ‘Ellipsocurvex’ case. The salmon dial features a vertical striping pattern on the inner dial, seconds subdial, and outer dial that adds a bit of spectacle. If you are thinking about purchasing this model, keep in mind that while the 35x38mm case size isn’t large, the rectangular case will wear a little bigger on your wrist.

Grönefeld 1941 Principia

When you look at the stainless steel Grönefeld 1941 Principia with salmon dial, you will immediately notice the textured dial and a slight sheen . This is because the dial of every 1941 Principia (regardless of color) has a base layer of sterling silver. Beyond the stunning dials, Grönefeld’s movement is unique and well-finished. While the bridges are stainless steel, they have been microblasted to have a darker, almost titanium, look. The large red gold rotor is also microblasted and mirrors the coloring of the salmon dial nicely. If you are looking for a unique salmon dial from an up-and-coming independent watchmaker, the Grönefeld 1941 Principia is a great choice.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 25960BC

What is better than an iconic Genta design? How about an iconic Genta design with salmon dial? That’s exactly what you get with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 25960BC. Offered in white gold and only produced for a short period of time in the early 2000s, this watch has just about everything you could ever want. The iconic tapisserie dial and 40mm case make the watch very wearable for most wrist sizes, especially considering that the piece also sports a chronograph complication. While this was not technically a limited edition piece, very few come up for sale on the secondary market, making it a great option for anyone looking for a Royal Oak that is a little out of the ordinary.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Original Limited Edition

In January of 1969, Zenith was the first brand to introduce an automatic chronograph movement, the legendary El Primero. At the same time, however, Seiko and Heuer were also working on their own automatic chronograph movements. Whether the El Primero was first or not is up for debate, but the release of the movement was a watershed moment in modern watch history. The El Primero movement was so well-regarded that even Rolex used it in their Daytona models from 1988 until 2000. Daytona aside, the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster is a watch that deserves to be considered among the most important chronographs ever made. This vintage-inspired salmon dial limited edition (produce in a run of 300 pieces for Hodinkee) is among our favorites. The 38mm watch features an understated salmon dial with contrasting white, gray, and dark gray subdials, and at right around $10k on the secondary market, it is a great, reasonably priced option.

IWC GST Rattrapante Chronograph Ref. IW3715-13

The IWC GST Rattrapante Chrono Ref. IW3715-13 is big and bulky. At 17mm thick and 43mm in diameter, it has quite the presence on the wrist, but that’s probably why we like it so much. Though it was produced between 2000 and 2009, the case and bracelet shape along with the sizing gives it a 1980s aesthetic. The watch features a slightly more orange-y/salmon dial and a rattrapante chronograph, meaning that you are getting quite a bit of watch (and style) for under $7,000 on the secondary market.

Breitling Premier B25 Datora Ref. AB251020/K1P1-21

One of the most affordable options on this list, the Breitling Premier B25 Datora Ref. AB251020/K1P1-21 offers a ton of watch at an affordable price. For under $10,000 (on the secondary market), you get annual calendar and moonphase complications along with the distinctive salmon dial. The B25 Datora has eschewed Breitling’s brutalist modern style for something a little more classic. While it has a more classic aesthetic, it will still look right at home on larger wrists, due to its 42mm case size and 15.3mm thickness. Often compared to the Patek Philippe 5270P, and sometimes referred to as a Patek-lite, the B25 Datora Salmon gives you a similar look at just a fraction of the price.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Taille Art Deco Ref. Q277360

Everyone is familiar with the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Offered in an array of different dial colors, complications and sizes, there really is a Reverso for everyone. One of the more interesting models we have seen is the Grande Taille Art Deco Ref. Q277360 with salmon dial that features a central guilloche pattern surrounded by a brushed outer dial. The watch comes in a white gold case with a white gold bracelet. If you are looking for a distinctive yet traditional salmon dial watch for a more formal occasion this might be the piece for you.

Cartier Santos Dumont Platinum 90th Anniversary Ref. 1575-1

The Reverso is not the only iconic rectangular watch on our list. The Cartier Santos Dumont Platinum 90th Anniversary Ref. 1575-1 is another great rectangular (well square) option with a whole lot of history. While the Santos may be associated with dress watches by many, it is actually considered the first Pilot’s watch. Louis Cartier designed the original Cartier Santos Dumont for his friend and aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. Santos-Dumont needed a highly legible watch that he could wear hands-free while piloting his airplane. Since the original Santos-Dumont was released, many models and iterations have been released (but the all include the iconic bezel with screws). One of our favorites is the Santos Dumont Platinum 90th Anniversary Ref. 1575-1 in platinum on matching salmon-colored alligator leather strap. Limited to just 90 pieces, the watch was produced to celebrate the 90 year anniversary of the watch. Extremely rare and iconic, if you are looking for something with quite a bit of history, the Cartier Santos Dumont Platinum 90th Anniversary Ref. 1575-1 is the perfect choice.

Montblanc Heritage Spirit Pulsograph Monopusher Ref. 119914

You might think of Montblanc as a pen manufacturer, but the brand has been producing high-end watches for more than 25 years now. The movements in many of the brand’s timepieces actually have heritage that far predates 1997. Richemont, Montblanc’s parent company, bought historic movement maker Minerva in 2006 and began integrating their movements and tech into Montblanc’s offerings right away. Taking a historical Minerva monopousher chronograph movement, Montblanc released the Heritage Spirit Pulsograph Monopusher with salmon dial. We like this watch because of its retro callbacks, including a bi-compax dial (with subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock) and grained hour track. Additionally, the bright blue tachymeter scale located on the outer portion of the dial (as opposed to the bezel) gives the watch some extra personality and punch. Limited to just 100 pieces, this Montblanc has been a hit with collectors.