A Classic Head Turner: The Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6

When you think of Breguet, you probably think of classical watches and one complication in particular: the tourbillon. Indeed, Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of his eponymous brand invented the tourbillon, and it’s been beautifully employed in many of Breguet’s pieces ever since. One such piece is the Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6. This piece shows Breguet’s watchmaking prowess in all its glory. The watch not only includes a tourbillon, but also a perpetual calendar, all skeletonized for the wearer to enjoy while on the wrist.

History

When talking about the Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6, you have start with the tourbillon. The tourbillon is the complication most closely associated with Breguet. As I stated earlier, Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founded of Breguet, invented the tourbillon in 1801 (just 26 years after founding the brand). The tourbillon was originally designed to counteract the effects of gravity in watches, particularly pocket watches. As pocket watches stayed in the same position in the owner’s pocket, the tourbillon would counteract the gravitational pull on the movement, providing better accuracy to the watch.

Clearly, a tourbillon has less utility in a wristwatches. But, over the years, it has become the go-to complication, to showcase high horology. And Breguet has continued to beautifully integrate the tourbillon into their high-end timepieces. And the Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6 is the perfect example.

Design Details

Although the Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6 has a skeletonized dial, it is about as classic and traditional as you can get. Oftentimes with skeletonized dial watches, you get something incredibly modern. Here, Breguet stuck to their roots. The gears and plates are a mixture of yellow gold and steel, all incased in a platinum case. The finishing is very traditional, harkening back to the original pocket watches originally fitted with Breguet’s tourbillon.

One might think that given that the Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6 is openworked, with both perpetual calendar and tourbillon complications, it would be illegible. This couldn’t be further from the case. The steel subdial rings and blued Breguet hands beautifully contrast with the gold of the movement, increasingly legibility. There is so much going on dial-side, yet the watch doesn’t appear cluttered. That’s quite the feet given the complications involved.

Perhaps to not take away from the focal point of the watch, the dial, the Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6 has straight lugs. But, in typical Breguet style, the platinum midcase is decorated with a coin-edge. This is typical for Breguet, and it adds a nice extra design-point without taking away from the beauty of the dial.

Inner Workings

The Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6 runs on a manual wind movement with perpetual calendar and tourbillon complications. Additionally, the movement has a 50-hour power reserve. With all its complications, Breguet managed to also produce a beautiful movement. The movement not only is finished mostly in gold, but also includes hand engraving throughout. This continues the very classical aesthetic of the watch, despite it being a skeletonize dial.

Versus the Competition

If you are looking for a skeletonized perpetual calendar in a bit more of a sporty package, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ref. 4300V/120R-B642 is a great choice. The Overseas is one of the most iconic modern integrated bracelet sport watches, and adding a perpetual calendar with rose gold case takes it to the next level. And like the Breguet Ref. 3755pr/1e/9v6, the dial is extremely legible, despite being openworked. If you are looking for an everyday wear that can be dressed up, this is a great choice.

If you like the perpetual calendar and tourbillon on the 3755pr/1e/9v6 but want something a little more subtle, the Breguet Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref. 3757BA/1E/9V6 is an option. Instead of a platinum case, the Ref. 3757BA has a yellow gold case, and the dial is not skeletonized, except for the open heart of the tourbillon. This is a little less ostentatious and a little more toned down version of the 3755PR, and I really like it.

Personality 

When I see the skeletonized dial watches currently on the market, I don’t see many as well finished and though out as the Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. While I am so used to seeing skeletonized dials with more modern, and dare I say “futuristic” finishings, it’s great to see Breguet stay true to their traditions when designing such a watch. This watch would work just as well as a pocket watch as it does as a wristwatch. With a world of sport watches with skeletonized dials, seeing an more traditional piece openworked is refreshing.

Final Thoughts

Purely classic, but with a flare that some may think you can only find on a more modern design, the Breguet Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Skeleton is timeless and stunning. From the hand-engraved movement, to the perpetual calendar and tourbillon complications on full display, you can’t go wrong with this piece.

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