A Rare Gem: The Rolex GMT-Master II 116758SA

Rolex is known as a watch brand. With the company’s storied history of contributions to the world of waterproofing, automatic winding, date complications, and more, it’s easy to assume that’s Rolex’s sole focus and aptitude. And yet, watches like the GMT-Master II Reference 116758SA serve as a perfect reminder that Rolex is a jeweler as well. The factory’s gem-setting skill is nearly unparalleled in the industry. Let’s take a closer look at this incredible piece.

History

The history of the GMT-Master relates directly to its function. A GMT utilizes a 24-hour hand that allows the wearer to track a second time zone in addition to the local time. When paired with a bi-directional bezel, you can effectively track a third time zone in tandem with the 24 hour hand. Public demand for this type of “travel watch” coincided with the expansion of global travel and the advent of commercial airlines in the 1950s. In fact, the original GMT-Master was designed to outfit Pan Am pilots with a mens watch that could simultaneously track the time in both their place of origin and destination. 

The fact that the watch is tied so closely to such an exciting period in aviation history and the general spirit of exploration and adventure that emerged during the 1950s has always given the GMT-Master II a bit of a romantic appeal for me and adds to the overall mystique of the GMT-Master. 

This particular variant of the GMT, the reference 116758SA  was never officially released on-catalog. Instead, this iteration was presented to the most exclusive of Rolex customers in an undisclosed– yet extremely limited— quantity. This piece exists in its own continuum of exceptional Rolex pieces that feature fine gemsetting. 

Design Details

At its core, the 116758SA is simply a yellow gold GMT-Master II. A classic from Rolex, the fundamental design DNA is all there. That said, this piece has the added flair of a pavee dial, baguette studded bezel, and diamond-set center links. While it looks like a lot of ice (and it is), there’s certainly more behind the diamond setting decisions than initially meets the eye. For example, although the conventional bi-color bezel has been replaced with bi-color baguette setting. Intentionally, Rolex maintained the visual separation between AM and PM on the bezel, even with the added bling. 

Similarly, on this example, the applique lume plots have a presence that jumps from the dial with a three-dimensional quality that is simply unique to gem set pieces. Between the depth of the diamond settings and the raised lume, this dial has much more in the way of topography than a conventional GMT and that helps this piece pop on the wrist. 

Beyond these distinguishing details, much more about this watch is the same than is different. We otherwise have the same 40mm case with maxi lugs that bring the utilitarian look to this piece. I think it works well, although I would certainly prefer the Submariner’s updated slimmed down lug presence on a watch that is supposed to have a bit more elegance and swagger.

All around, this piece packs the spec of a solid Rolex sports piece, but packaged within a more playful, and blingy package. 

Inner Workings

The Rolex 116758SA is powered by one of Rolex’s workhorse movements, the caliber 3186. Automatic-winding and packing 50 hours of power reserve, this movement was developed in house specifically to be a rock solid, serviceable, quality movement. Like most Rolex movements, the 3186 isn’t about aesthetic refinement or distinction. It’s about reliability, robustness, and ease of repairs. Watchmakers I’ve spoken to have mentioned a number of times the ease with which servicing of 3186 movements is handled. You can’t go wrong with this one. 

Versus the Competition

Undoubtedly the first pieces I’d look at as alternatives to the 116758SA would be other iced out Rolexes. The Rainbow Daytona of course comes to mind as the most obvious choice, but my favorite would be a slightly more under the radar option, the Submariner in white gold with blue sapphires and diamond-set lugs. This is an imposing, beautiful watch, but the white gold tones down the bling just a little bit. 

Next, I’d offer my next favorite Rolex with diamonds, the Day-Date meteorite in white gold with baguette markers. This piece has to be one of the most subtle watches to incorporate diamonds that I know of, and I think it works brilliantly. This piece is a complete winner in the category, and has gotten more and more popular over the last few years. 

Finally, it should be noted that Rolex offers the 116759SARU, essentially a white gold variant of our 116758SA. Incorporating multi-color precious stones in a similar capacity to the yellow gold variant, in white gold, this piece takes on an entirely different personality. It looks a bit more clinical and slightly scaled back from the presence of the 116758. This fine distinction is a matter of preference, but you will likely gravitate strongly one way or another. 

Personality

The type of collector looking for a watch of this kind is likely one of two personalities. First, and most likely, a lover of louder watches. A more flamboyant styling, the yellow gold and diamonds will attract a showier collector. Most collectors would likely not be comfortable wearing something quite this loud on their wrists. I have heard many describe discomfort even wearing a full gold Rolex. The pairing of this base with the added punch of precious stones might be too much. The collector that likes this knows who they are. 

With all that said, there is also a smaller group of collectors that gravitates toward this piece for an entirely different reason— appreciation for the craft of fine gem setting. I have spoken to a number of collectors that love diamonds, but comment on how smooth Rolex’s setting process is. So much so that you can quite simply identify a factory vs aftermarket diamonds setting. There’s a certain precision and mastery of the craft of fine gem setting that Rolex possesses that cannot be understated.  While this may be a niche subset of the Rolex clientele, at the same time, this is not a mass-market watch. It is designed for the select few, and for this, the 116758 will more than satisfy. 

Final Thoughts

Rolex typically lives in the 20ish thousand dollar range. Their watches are solid, reliable, utilitarian, and built to withstand the grueling demands of the everyday— but to do so in style. The 116758 stands slightly outside of this framework. It’s one of Rolex’s few rare decorated pieces, not a part of the general production line, and showcasing Rolex’s mastery of fine gem setting. This watch lives on the art side of Rolex’s catalog, and it truly thrives there.

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