Many consider Bulgari to be a jewelry brand as opposed to a high horology watchmaker. But the past decade has really showcased that the brand has the ability to both to the highest standard. And while the more entry level Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a great watch, the brand has used the collection to create some truly stunning and mechanically impressive timepieces. The Octo Finissimo Automatic Tourbillon Ref. 102937 is one of those pieces. 

History

Bulgari has been manufacturing watches since the 1920s, but many have thought that the brand lost its way for a long period of time. It wasn’t until 2012, when the Octo Finissimo was introduced, that Bulgari really reestablished itself as a preeminent watch house. The design offered a fresh and modern take on the integrated bracelet sport watch, a design that clearly wasn’t derivative of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. Significantly thinner than these two icons and featuring a square case design, it’s easy to see why collectors welcomed the Octo Finissimo so quickly.

And Bulgari was not content on just producing the Octo Finissimo as a three-handed stainless steel (and titanium) sport watch. Over the last decade, the brand has added some truly spectacular pieces to the collection, including the current world’s thinnest mechanical watch (at 1.7mm thick). Another one of these mechanical marvels is the Octo Finissimo Automatic Tourbillon Ref. 102937, which, even with an automatic movement and tourbillon, is just 3.95mm thick. 

Design Details

The Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon Ref. 102937 offers everything we have come to love about the collection, plus more. The watch has a very utilitarian sandblasted titanium bracelet and case that is incredibly light and comfortable on the wrist. The Ref. 102937 is 42mm in diameter. And while that may not seem that large, because the case is square, it wears larger than a similarly sized round watch. But its thinness (it’s just 3.95mm thick) does compensate for its larger dimensions.

The true star of this watch is definitely the dial. It is completely openworked, showcasing the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The skeletonized dial is attractive and is a mixture of steel and titanium. Because of this, and the black hands, the dial is legible and easy to read on the wrist. I always am a fan of a skeletonized dials, especially when the internal mechanisms are so well thought out and impressive. The lack of dial also might be strategic. The watch is so thin, that adding a dial to the movement, would add additional millimeters of thickness, which Bulgari was not ready to do. 

Inner Workings 

Why was Bulgari so adamant on making the Ref. 102937 so thin? Well, when it was released in 2018 it broke not one, but two records. Upon release, the watch became the world’s thinnest tourbillon AND the world’s thinnest automatic watch. This is all the more impressive when you realize that while the watch itself is 3.95mm thick, the movement is only 1.95mm thick. And even at that thickness, the watch still has a 52 hour power reserve and a respectable 30 meters of water resistance (I definitely wouldn’t go swimming this watch though). 

Interestingly, the caseback is closed except for a small opening showcasing the backside of the tourbillon. I guess it makes sense that Bulgari would opt to do this, especially when there is so much going on dial-side. Indeed, unlike many other watches, you don’t have to look at the caseback to see the movement’s interesting bits. That’s all available to you while the watch is on your wrist. 

Personality

Yes, there are many other integrated bracelet watches that offer skeletonized dials and tourbillons. But none do it quite like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon. The watch has a decidedly utilitarian and modern feel, something that you may not find with a skeletonized Royal Oak, for example. 

While the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon will easily fit under the cuff, I don’t see it as a dress watch. Of course I don’t subscribe to the notion that you have to wear a dress watch with a suit, but this watch is something that I would wear every day, and not to that black tie event. The fact that it is fashioned from sandblasted titanium makes this Octo Finissimo Tourbillon about as sporty as you can get. 

Versus The Competition

If you like the Octo Finissimo, but a tourbillon is a little out of your price-range, the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Ref. 103610 is a great choice. Like the Ref. 102937 it features a sandblasted titanium case and bracelet and a beautifully openworked dial. This watch, however, is a little thicker at 5.15mm thick (though still incredibly thin). However, it is also only 40mm in diameter, so will wear a little small on your wrist. The automatic movement also boasts an 8-day power reserve, so you don’t have to worry about placing it on a watch winder.

Want a titanium integrated bracelet sport watch with a tourbillon, but not interested in a fully openworked dial? Well, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon 50th Anniversary Ref. 26730TI.OO.1320TI.02 is a great choice. It doesn’t get more classic in the integrated bracelet sport watch space than the Genta-designed Royal Oak, and this piece is a beauty. Like the Bulgari, this Royal Oak features a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. But the sandblasted blue dial is incredibly unique, and far cry from the typical grand tapisserie dials we see on Royal Oaks.

Final Thoughts

If you are looking for an attractive, modern and innovative watch to add to your collection, you can’t really go wrong with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon Ref. 102937. In the last decade Bulgari has really dedicated immense resources to its watchmaking department, and it really shows. They are constantly breaking records and producing some of the most well-received timepieces on the market. And the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon is a worthy addition to the brand’s catalog.

See More of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Automatic Tourbillon Ref. 102937

Visit europeanwatch.com