Historical Modernity: The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Vantablack Limited Edition

Since 1828, H.Moser & Cie has established itself for delicately walking the line between tradition and modernity. Traditional movements, traditional complications; modern case sizes and profiles, modern dials. This interplay between respect for watchmaking tradition and modern aesthetics has helped earn the brand a following of dedicated collectors. Today, we are taking a look at one of Moser’s most interesting watches, the Endeavour Tourbillon, outfitted with a Vantablack dial and DLC-coated stainless steel case, all limited to just 50 pieces. Let’s get started. 

History

Many view Moser as a modern brand, but the truth is the company has been manufacturing fine watches since the 1820s. Still independently owned and operated, Moser produces its movements in-house with a fully vertically integrated manufacturing process that is becoming more and more rare in the watch industry. 

Of all of Moser’s contemporary collections, the Endeavour Collection is likely the most traditional. Honoring the brand’s historical pieces, the Endeavour Collection is less avant-garde than the other collections, and is the most classic take on the Moser design ethos available in their catalog. 

Design Details

Starting with the exterior of this piece, the Endeavour Tourbillon Vantablack is fashioned from stainless steel, DLC-coated to generate a stealth, almost ceramic-looking presence on the wrist. This dark theme complements the defining feature of this limited edition, its Vantablack dial. 

The darkest man-made material, technically darker than black, Vantablack absorbs 99.965% of surrounding light. The result is a gorgeously deep black dial. Whereas in many cases, black dials are simply a default of a brand, in this case, “black” has taken on a much more special meaning, and this piece’s black dial is not your run of the mill dark dial. 

If that’s not captivating enough, out of the striking abyss of the dial, Moser has introduced stark contrast with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. This complication plays really well with the dial. A vantablack dial on its own— striking as that would be— would likely look a bit too intense. By adding some motion, the watch takes what would be a relatively sordid piece, and adds a bit of life. If you handle this watch in person, you will certainly understand what I mean. 

The case is classic Moser. With the exception of the coloring, the 42mm case has the recognizable flowing profile, with rounded lugs, scalloped details, and a relatively svelte feel in spite of its balanced 11.7mm thickness. For a tourbillon, this is a really well sized case. The watch feels like your typical modern dress watch, Moser seemingly unencumbered by the mechanical challenge of tourbillon construction. 

This piece is set on a strap and completed with a matching DLC coated buckle. For a watch that on paper could have been boring, this piece has a really big presence thanks to the carefully considered design choices the brand made. 

Inner Workings

Powering this piece is the Moser automatic caliber HMC 804. Once again featuring both traditional and contemporary approaches to watchmaking, the caliber HMC 804 flaunts Moser’s Straumann double hairspring, developed by Moser’s sister firm, Precision Engineering. In spite of the sizable drain a tourbillon places on a power reserve, this watch still packs a serious 72 hours of reserve.

The tourbillon completes a full carriage rotation in one minute, and measures a tiny 5.5mm in thickness. It’s easy to forget how much work Moser does, both on the finishing side, and the mechanical development front. The brand has really made big strides in both departments, and punches far above its price point on the secondary market. For the money pre-owned, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better finished, better executed movement in this category. 

Versus the Competition 

There are a number of alternatives to the Moser Endeavour Vantablack limited edition. First, on the more sporty side of the spectrum from Moser’s own collections, consider the Moser Streamliner Tourbillon. A cushion case with an integrated bracelet, the Streamliner is Moser’s quintessential sports watch. This piece takes the same movement architecture we love from the Endeavour Tourbillon and packages it within a modern package.

Next up would be the dressier option within the tourbillon world. I’d argue there is no better value than the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon. If you want an exposed tourbillon in a thin dress watch, this piece is one of the most beautiful at any price range. 

Finally, if you’re looking for a higher-end independent tourbillon, you can’t beat a F.P. Journe. The Journe tourbillon is one of the pillars of the brand’s collections, and there are a whole host of iterations since its formal introduction in 1999 to choose from. Among our favorites, is the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical.

Personality 

The collector that gravitates towards this Moser loves complications, appreciates a more exciting dial, and likely isn’t looking for the most austere dress watch. Sure, Patek, Lange, Breguet, and others all make fantastic tourbillons. But not only do those pieces cost more, you have to be looking for a hard-core dress piece. While that works for many collectors, if you want something that works a bit more casually, or simply don’t have the lifestyle that jives with a Patek, the Moser is not only a great alternative, it has its own distinct personality. 

Conversely, while RM and AP provide extremely sporty tourbillons, next to them, Moser is just a bit more put together. Let’s put it this way: if Journe, Patek, Lange, and Breguet represent a buttoned up collar and tie, Moser is one button undone, and RM is two. You get the idea. 

Final Thoughts

In the last 10 years, Moser has become one of the more talked about and passionately collected independents. While not as well known or famous as many others, we are seeing a groundwell in interest for the brand, and deservedly so. Moser has been killing it: both on the sport side and dressy side. And it’s watches 

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