When you think of independent watch brands with an established history and legacy, De Bethune is likely one of the first brands you think of. Having been founded in 2002, De Bethune might seem like a fairly young brand. But once you get beyond legacy independents like Patek Philippe, the rise of indies is actually a fairly recent occurrence. 

I have always seen independent brands as a place for the industry to really innovate, both in design and functionality. De Bethune really showcases innovation on the design side, creating iconic pieces unlike anything else on the market. And that is certainly true with the out of this world DB25 Starry Varius Ref. DB25VTIS3, a watch that stands not on any complications, but on its beautiful dial and craftsmanship. 

History

Founded in 2002 by David Zanetta and Denis Flageolet, De Bethune has become quite the player in the independent space. While the brand’s designs have evolved over the years, they have retained common elements over the years. And even with De Bethune being purchased by WatchBox (now the 1916 Company) in 2021, it seems Mr. Zanetta and Flageolet have been given the ability to create their timepieces unimpeded. 

Design Details

While De Bethune has some more futuristic timepieces in their collection, the DB25 Starry Varius adheres more to the brand’s earlier, classical leanings. While the watch does have the brand’s signature openworked lugs, they do not articulate to the wrist like some of the more avant-garde pieces. The articulating lugs, however, are probably not needed, as the DB25 Starry Varius is 42mm in diameter and just 8.8mm thick. This is noticeably thinner and smaller than many of the brand’s other offerings (where articulating lugs help provide a better wearing experience).

But obviously, the main star of the show (pun intended) is the dial. The outer dial is a fairly standard affair. It includes blue Roman numeral hour markers for easy time-telling. The inner portion of the dial is something else entirely. The blue titanium dial is mirror polished and set with 100 hand polished white gold pins acting as stars as well as 24-carat gold leaf showcasing the the rest of the Milky Way galaxy. It is truly unique and a sight to behold. And those who love astronomy will truly appreciate it. 

While the DB25 Starry Varius has a very classical and high art appearance, it is actually made of titanium, and thus very light on the wrist. With a catalog of watches that are fairly large, I appreciate the De Bethune pieces that are a little more restrained and wearable (at least on my 6.75 inch wrist). The titanium has a high polish throughout the case, which classes the watch up quite a bit from your typical titanium affair. 

Inner Workings 

The DB25 Starry Varius Ref. DB25VTIS3 runs on the manual wind calibre DB2005 movement. It has 27 jewels and a 60-day power reserve. And while it only has hours and minutes (and no complications), it is visually interesting through the display caseback. The double barrels are hidden by Star Trek Starfleet-esque polished bridge, which just adds further aesthetic appeal and gives the movement a much more futuristic look than the rest of the watch.

Personality

If you like De Bethune but are looking for something a little more classic and restrained in design, the DB25 Starry Varius is a great choice. You get much of what what De Bethune is known for in a smaller, slimmer and more traditional package. Yes, the watch still has the unique, almost futuristic, movement. But it also has a beautiful dial that looks more artistic than futuristic. 

And the best part? The DB25 Starry Varius is eminently wearable. At under 9mm thick and 42mm in diameter, I would venture to say this is one of the most wearable De Bethune’s in production. If you’ve been hesitating to purchase a De Bethune because of their size, this might be the watch that finally gets a De Bethune on your wrist. 

Versus The Competition

If you like the look of the DB25 Starry Varius, but want some complications, the Patek Philippe Grand Complication Sky Moon Celestial Ref. 5102G-001 is a great choice. This piece, crafted in white gold, is complete with a celestial chart on the dial. This allows the wearer to see the nighttime sky in the northern hemisphere, indicating the movement of the stars and moon. But obviously, due to the fact that this Patek is a Grand Complication, it will come with a price increase.

While aventurine dials are not meant to necessarily look like stars, per se, they do produce a similar otherworldly look. And the A. Lange & Sohne Little Lange 1 Ref. 182.086 is an absolute favorite of mine. In addition to an offset time sundial, the watch features a moonphase indication, big date, small seconds, and power reserve. There is just so much to look at, that its difficult not to fall in love with this piece.

Final Thoughts

Over the past 20-plus years, De Bethune has been making a name for itself as a big player in the independent scene. A brand that is always unmistakably itself, the DB25 Starry Varius manages to remain true to De Bethune’s core identity while also offering something more restrained. It’s perfect for those collectors that want a conversation piece that won’t overwhelm the wrist.

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