Precious Yet Unpretentious: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G-001

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is a modern horological icon. The original Ref. 3700 was released in 1976, during the rise of integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watches. This particular reference not only filled a hole in Patek’s catalog, but also provided customers with a more durable and casual Patek Philippe. Indeed, the 3700 was dramatically larger and bolder than the rest of the Patek Philippe catalog at the time, providing a new aesthetic to Patek collectors. Since its original release, the Nautilus has gained a cult following, which in turn developed into mass market acceptance, and then into a mainstream icon.

As the model became increasingly popular, Patek Philippe’s historical bread and butter of complicated, precious metal timepieces began to fade in the background from the perspective of the public eye (but not to the brand). Maybe because of this, Patek discontinued the 5711, removing the famed stainless steel time only watch from the catalog. Replacing it was the 5811, a white gold Nautilus with 30 meters of water resistance. The brand has made statements that it wants to return public focus to precious metal and complicated watches. But, in addition to focusing on more traditional and classic designs, Patek Philippe has also continued to create popular sport watches, except in precious metal and with complications. This is certainly true with the 5980/60G-001.

History

With a rich brand history dating back to 1839, Patek Philippe truly stepped out of their comfort zone with the 1976 release of the original Nautilus Ref. 3700. After the release of the Royal Oak 4 years earlier, Gerald Genta brought the design sketches of the Nautilus to Patek Philippe in 1974. The original 3700 was quite large at 42mm wide, larger than the Royal Oak of the time. Similar to other integrated bracelet sport watches from the time, widespread acceptance was slow, but mid-size models and smaller quartz models in the 1980’s garnered more acceptance of the design, which allowed it to grow in popularity. 

To mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, in 2006 Patek Philippe unveiled the 5980/1A, adding a chronograph complication to the model. But the 5980/1A was discontinued in 2014, ending all stainless steel Nautilus chronograph models. Between 2014 and 2024, the only 5980 models available in Patek’s catalog were made in rose gold and two-tone (rose gold and steel). However, 2024 saw the return of a white gold 5980 with the 5980/60G-001. With a blue dial (albeit lighter in hue), the new 5980/60G blends contemporary design with precious metal and a chronograph. 

Design Details

As discussed earlier, the 5980/60G’s blue dial is different from the conventional darker blue dial of other Nautiluses. Instead, it is a lighter, almost gray shade that makes the watch look even sportier than the original. All the dial text is white, including the hour markers, hands, and sundial markings. This limited color palette really highlights the dial color, and keeps reading the time, chronograph and date functions easy. 

The case design remains unchanged from previous 5980 models. Instead of being made of steel or rose gold, it is white gold. The case measures 40.5mm wide, 12.2mm thick, and is water resistant to 30 meters. 

Instead of going into an integrated white gold bracelet, Patek Philippe has made an interesting strap choice for the 5980/60G, it might even be the most interesting part of the watch. The denim patterned calfskin matches the color of the dial, providing a very cohesive look. But the embossed denim look gives the watch an even more of a casual appearance, something you generally don’t think of when thinking about a Patek Philippe with complications.

Inner Workings 

The Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G runs on the in-house automatic Caliber CH-28-520 C/522 movement. It includes a fly-back chronograph with a 60 minute and 12 hour mono-counter, as well as a date display at 3 o’clock. This unique chronograph layout allows for a cleaner dial appearance, and an easier to read chronograph function, as all the information is located in one place on the dial. The movement measures 30mm in diameter, has 35 jewels, a 21k gold winding rotor, beats at 28,800 bph, and has a 45-55 hour power reserve range. The movement is finished and regulated to the standards of the Patek Philippe seal, which means completed watches must be within -1/+2 seconds a day of accuracy. 

Personality

Around the time that it was announced that Patek Philippe was discontinuing the 5711, Thierry Stern made statements asserting that the brand’s focus has been, and should continue to be, precious metal watches. He also voiced concern over the Nautilus, and other stainless steel models, being overwhelmingly important for the brand, when the brand’s heritage was built on complicated timepieces. As already stated, the 5980/60G is a model meant to carry customers that were previously only interested in stainless steel sport models over to complicated precious metal watches. Because of this, the 5980/60G reads as very contemporary and casual, despite being offered in white gold and with a chronograph complication. I imagine the bulk of the buyers of the 5980/60G at retail are clients that have an existing history with Patek Philippe, but are likely still relatively young. They may have started when you could feasibly buy an Aquanaut at retail, but now have a number of models, ranging from sporty to more formal. The 5980/60G slots into casual and business casual attire, making it a great model for those with less formal taste, but a budding appreciation for Patek’s heritage. 

Versus The Competition

When thinking of alternatives for the 5980/60G, there are other precious metal, blue dialed chronographs from collectible brands that have gained popularity. However, if it is the denim look one is after, there are other, more affordable options available. 

Exchanging one Geneva-based brand for another, and exchanging gold for platinum, the Rolex Platinum Daytona with Glacier Blue Dial has become very collectible. The 126506 was originally released in 2013 for the 50th anniversary of the Daytona as the Ref. 116506, and eventually updated in 2023. The 40mm platinum case with platinum bracelet offers more precious metal than the 5980/60G, and is currently available for significantly less money, making the platinum Daytona look like a relative bargain. 

Albeit with its own unique charm, and possibly one of the few independent brands that give Patek Philippe a run for their money, is F.P. Journe. The F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Platinum is a haute horology chronograph in a modern sport watch package. With its integrated bracelet design in full platinum, and the dazzling chronograph that is able to measure 1/100th of a second, this is a watch that would easily cause envy amongst many collectors, even those with a developed Patek collection. 

While pictured here on the bracelet, the Omega Railmaster Master Co-Axial Blue Dial was also available with a blue denim nato strap. Given that this is a time only watch, it allows for the denim look without the added cost of the chronograph complication. As far as denim themed watches are concerned, this Omega maybe one of the more versatile options available. 

Final Thoughts

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has achieved widespread popularity, extending it into icon status. The rising value of time-only steel Nautilus watches has proven that there is public appetite to spend higher dollar amounts on watches. As an effort to propel forward what Patek Philippe is best known for amongst collectors to the public, and to meet more casual buyers where they are at, the denim themed Ref. 5980/60G brings high-end complications and precious metals into a more casual space. Definitely more fashion oriented in terms of styling, Patek Philippe was wise to keep the denim texture to the strap, as the blue-grey dial will age well over time, but the strap can be changed as fashion preferences change. Current resale values of these more casual yet high-dollar models indicates that this direction is successful for Patek Philippe. Only time will tell if it will bring a wider audience to their more traditional models.

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