Future Icons: 4 Watches We Think Will Be the Next Icons

When it comes to iconic watches, people always think of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. These are both integrated bracelet sport watches. And this category, I would argue that the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and perhaps the Girard-Perregaux Laureato (it is from the 70s) have become icons for their respective brands. 

But there are plenty of other iconic watches to talk about. If you like dive watches, you will definitely look to the Rolex Submariner or the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. If you want a chronograph, it will be the Omega Speedmaster or the Rolex Daytona.

Beyond these obvious choices, you will find many icons within other brands’ catalogs. Cartier has the Santos, Tank, and Crash. IWC has the Big Pilot. Panerai has basically their whole catalog. 

But what are the watches that are set to become the icons of the future? I have some thoughts. Here are 4 watches from both legacy brands and independents that are set to become icons.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo

You might argue with me and say that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is already an icon. And perhaps I wouldn’t put up too much of a fight. However, because the collection is so recent (in watchmaking standards), I think it is best categorized as a future icon (or at least a new icon).

Originally released in 2014, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo plays on the integrated bracelet designs of the 1970s, but with a much more modern aesthetic. Though it paid homage to the Maestro, Gerald Genta, from the beginning Bulgari used modern materials such as titanium in the Octo Finissimo. Not to mention, the collection has been the platform for innovation. The Octo Finissimo Ultra 104081 is currently the second thinnest watch in the world, at just 1.7mm thin. 

When you combine innovation with a classic but unique design, you have something special. And this very clearly describes the Octo Finissimo. Now I only hope they release a variation in a slightly smaller 38mm. One can hope!

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF

Staying in the integrated bracelet watch category, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF is a watch that I have grown to really love over the past couple of years. The Tonda PF, in all of its iterations, manages to be both simple and unique. The dials tend to be fairly sterile, but the finishing is top notch. And this extends to the case, bracelet and movement. You won’t find an independent watch brand producing something more high quality than Parmigiani Fleurier.

And while many of the watches in Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection are rather subdued, if you are looking for something with a little more wrist presence, they have something for you as well. The Tonda PF Skeleton is one of the most beautifully done skeleton dial watches on the market. All-in-all, the Tonda collection just keeps getting better and better with every new piece the brand releases.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 White Birch Ref. SLGH005

Grand Seiko has really made a name for itself in the past 5 years as it ramped up its efforts to break into the US market. And these efforts have been rewarded by growing recognition in collectors’ circles. Since Grand Seiko is known for their beautiful dials, any future icon from the brand will have to have a spectacular dial. And to me, no Grand Seiko dial is better than that on the White Birch Ref. SLGH005. The beautiful dial, inspired by the white birch trees present near Grand Seiko’s Studio Shizukuishi, shimmers and has multiple depths. And the movement visible through the display caseback is equally beautiful (and rivals pretty much anything coming out of Switzerland). Maybe I have a soft spot for Grand Seiko, but the White Birch (available with either mechanical or Spring Drive Movement) is a clear future icon to me.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner

H. Moser & Cie has made a name for itself in the watch community by breaking molds and not taking itself too seriously. I mean, they did make a watch out of cheese… But their most popular collection, the Streamliner, is a serious watch and definitely no laughing matter. The Streamliner features a cushion case that is often paired with a fumé dial, something Moser is well known for. But to me, what makes this watch so iconic is the bracelet. The single link bracelet has a snakelike appearance that is as comfortable as it is unique. It is no wonder that when prices of the Nautilus and Royal Oak skyrocketed in the early 2020s, collectors turned their attention to the Streamliner. It is definitely a watch that I think will continue to grow in popularity as the brand adds new models to the catalog.