A Quick History of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with 5 Top Watches
Buyers GuidesPublished by: David Sergeant
View all posts by David SergeantWhen it comes to iconic watches from the early 20th century, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is part of the conversation. Tracing its origins to 1931, the venerable Reverso came about in response to a unique challenge faced by British polo players stationed in India. This may seem like a specifically unique problem, but bear with me. Polo is a fairly high-impact sport. These players needed a watch sturdy enough to stand up to the rigors of the game while maintaining the air of sophistication expected of officers in the British Army.
César de Trey, a Swiss businessman, approached Jacques-David LeCoultre, head of LeCoultre & Cie, with the idea of designing such a watch. Together with French engineer René-Alfred Chauvot, they conceptualized a watch with a reversible case. The name “Reverso” is derived from Latin meaning “I turn around.” It perfectly describes the watch’s defining feature. The innovative design incorporated a clever sliding mechanism, enabling the case to be flipped over to protect the dial during those high-impact polo games. This mechanism remains the signature design trait of the Reverso to this day.
Early Success and Evolution
The original Reverso, with its Art Deco-inspired rectangular case, perfectly captured the Zeitgeist of the 1930s. Since its introduction, the case has remained largely unchanged to this day. The novel case concept also allowed for personalization; the case back could be engraved or enameled, which became a popular aspect of the Reverso’s appeal. Initially, Jaeger-LeCoultre equipped the Reverso with a manually wound movement made by Tavannes. But by 1933, Jaeger-LeCoultre began producing its own in-house calibers for the watch.
The Reverso gained immediate acclaim, becoming popular among polo players. However, the fashion-conscious public also quickly fell in love with the quirky design and adopted it as a fashionable accessory watch. Like many luxury items, its production declined during World War II and the post-war years as priorities shifted. By the 1970s, the quartz crisis further threatened the Reverso’s existence, and its production was nearly discontinued.
Revival and Renaissance
Thankfully, the Reverso weathered the storm. Its renaissance began in the 1980s, spearheaded by the rising demand for mechanical watches and the leadership of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s then-CEO, Günter Blümlein.
In 1991, the Reverso celebrated its 60th anniversary by introducing the iconic Reverso 60ème, marking the beginning of modern iterations that combined traditional aesthetics with cutting-edge watchmaking. Furthermore, the 90s saw the introduction of other new models like the Reverso Duoface, and Reverso Duetto introduced dual-faced dials, catering to frequent travelers, chronographs, and more.
Contemporary Status
Today, the Reverso remains a cornerstone of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collection, celebrated for its timeless design and technical innovation. While the brand is far than a one-trick pony, the Reverso is probably the first collection that comes to mind when talking about Jaeger-LeCoultre. Its popularity speaks to its ability to evolve while staying true to its original purpose — a feat few timepieces achieve in the ever-evolving landscape of luxury watchmaking.
Now that I’ve whet your appetite, let’s take a look at 5 top examples from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s extensive history:
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin “Tribute to 1931” New York Skyline Limited Edition Q2788570
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Grande Reverso Ultra Thin, “Tribute to 1931” New York Skyline Limited Edition ref. Q2788570, pays homage to the original 1931 Reverso model and is a near-perfect re-edition. The watch features a polished stainless steel case measuring 46mm long, 27.5mm wide, and a svelte 7.2mm thick. It houses a jet-black dial with vintage-style hour markers and polished steel hands. Powered by the manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822, it offers a 45-hour power reserve.
However, the New York Skyline depicted on the reverse makes this reference even more special. This quirky design detail was inspired by an old advert in the New Yorker showing a Reverso with the New York skyline, which didn’t exist at the time. Fast-forward to the modern day and Jaeger-LeCoultre produced the New York Skyline Limited Edition in an extremely limited quantity of just three pieces. That means this reference is among the rarest Reversos and is a highly sought-after collector’s item.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Duoface Green Marble Boutique Edition Q38484AF
The second model on this list is the most colorful, too. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Classic Large Duoface Green Marble Boutique Edition features two distinct dials, each with its own distinct personality. The primary dial showcases a muted silvery-grey, vertically brushed finish with a guilloché central section, black printed numerals, and a small seconds subdial. The reverse side is the star of the show and features a rather unique green marble dial with a 24-hour subdial at 6 o’clock, offering a second time zone display. Marble is rarely seen in watchmaking, but those beautiful green hues are an absolute delight. It’s a perfect example of “business up front, party round the back”.
The watch is powered by the manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 854A/2, providing a 42-hour power reserve. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Duoface Green Marble Boutique Edition features a stainless steel case measuring 47mm in length, 28.3mm in width,
and 10.3mm in thickness. While still very wearable and slim by modern standards, the duo face adds more thickness to the watch than the single-face models.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar Ref. Q3918420
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar (ref. Q3918420) is a contemporary homage to the iconic 1931 Reverso, seamlessly blending classic design with modern complications. This timepiece showcases two distinct dials: the main dial features a silvered grey-grained dial with a triple calendar display (day, date, and month) and moonphase complication, while the reverse offers a blue sunray-brushed dial indicating a second time zone and a day/night indicator.
The manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 853 powers the timepiece, which offers a 42-hour power reserve. The Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar has two easily interchangeable straps designed by the renowned Argentinian bootmaker Casa Fagliano, reflecting the watch’s polo heritage.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J
Next up is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph (ref. Q389848J), and without a doubt, it’s my favorite on this list. It’s a bit of a Jekyll and Hyde watch, blending JLC’s classic Art Deco design with modern horological advancements. Its stainless steel case is larger than everything else on the list up to this point. It measures 49.4mm in length, 29.9mm in width, and 11.14mm in thickness, making it still incredibly wearable on the wrist. The front dial displays a sunray-brushed finish with dauphine hands and applied hour markers, while the reverse dial reveals an open-worked chronograph display, showcasing the intricate movement beneath.
It is powered by the in-house manually wound Calibre 860, with a 52-hour power reserve, based on the caliber 829 from the late 90s. The movement uses a column-wheel actuated chronograph with a horizontal clutch and includes a retrograde 30-minute counter and a central chronograph seconds hand. This model also comes with two interchangeable straps crafted by Casa Fagliano, again underscoring Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to both functionality and elegance.
Read our full review of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque
While the previous entry may have been my favorite, I saved the best until last. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a groundbreaking timepiece, marking the first watch with four functioning faces. Yes, you read that correctly: four faces. Housed in an 18k white gold case measuring 51.2mm in length, 31mm in width, and 15.15mm in thickness, it’s the biggest watch on the list. Yet, again, I find myself repeating quite how wearable this watch is.
The watch impressively integrates 11 complications, including a flying tourbillon, a minute repeater, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. The front dial displays the time alongside the perpetual calendar with day, date, month, year, and leap year indicators. In contrast, the reverse dial reveals the intricate minute repeater mechanism and a secondary time display with jumping hours and peripheral minutes. The interior faces, located on the case cradle, present complex astronomical functions: the synodic cycle (lunar phases), draconic cycle (eclipse indicators), and anomalistic cycle (lunar perigee and apogee).
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is limited to just 10 pieces, which is fair given its mechanical complexity. Priced at approximately $1,900,000, it’s a costly addition to the collection. You may need to start looking down the back of your couch or go halves with a friend, but you’ll undoubtedly be the highlight at your next watch meetup.
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