The Most Notable Watch Releases of 2024

Throughout 2024, dozens of new watches were presented, from chronographs to GMTs, dress pieces to divers. We’ve assembled some of the most significant releases from the last 12 months: scroll down for our collection of the most notable watches of 2024.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT “Coke”

Watches and Wonders 2024 was generally considered a quieter year for most brands, but Tudor brought a brand new model that had been requested since the release of the Tudor Black Bay GMTin 2018: a slimmer GMT piece that would accommodate a larger range of wrist sizes. This April, Tudor released the Black Bay 58 GMT, with attractive, updated proportions. Sized 39mm in diameter by 12.8mm thick, this GMT democratized the complication for Tudor customers. Named the “Coke” for its red and black bezel and topped off with a subtle gilt dial, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is perfect for the collector looking for a vintage-feeling GMT with all the luxuries of a contemporary timepiece. This watch was a big win for Tudor.

Berneron Mirage 34 

Shifting from a mainstream piece to niche within the niche, next up is a watch that made significant waves this year, the Berneron Mirage 34. Said to combine the watchmaking excellence of fine watchmakers like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Sohne with the design and character of pieces by Cartier and renowned designer Gilbert Albert, the Berneron Mirage at first may remind collectors of the Crash with its asymmetrical, whimsical case shape, but this is only a fraction of the story. Flipping the piece over, you are met with an impeccably finished bespoke movement, fit to the irregular caseback. This piece truly feels like a contemporary take on watch design and movement finishing, and it’s truly no surprise this watch received so much praise and attention.

Patek Philippe Cubitus

Love it or hate it, the Patek Philippe Cubitus has been one of the most talked about releases from 2024. Wildly controversial, the Cubitus is the latest in Patek Philippe’s sports watch offerings, presented in three variants— two time only models in steel and two tone steel and rose gold, and a complicated platinum piece with day, date, and moonphase. Sized quite large at 45mm square, the Cubitus may not have been an immediate hit, but Patek Philippe has a way of releasing pieces that fall under the radar only to become popular favorites in the future. Will that happen to the Cubitus? Only time will tell!

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

This next pick is still building steam, but was immediately recognized as one of the greatest releases of the year. An enhanced perpetual calendar, the IWC Eternal calendar next needs adjustment in the year 3999. This piece also beat the record for most precise moonphase in the industry— accurate for 45,000,000 years. Not to mention that all this mechanical spec is packaged within a neat Portugieser case. This piece was incredibly cool, both mechanically and aesthetically, and I think most were shocked that IWC was the one to present a piece of this kind.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial

This year, Omega quietly released a new reference, the 310.30.42.50.04.001. This model is essentially a white dial update of the Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”. So named for the sapphire crystal and caseback on the standard production Omega Speedmaster, with the newest iteration, Omega has replaced the standard black dial with a striking white lacquer dial. And what a substantial difference the white dial makes! For the collector that loves the Speedmaster but finds the black dial a bit too common or cliche, this white model breathes a decidedly fresh, modern life into the model. The Speedy is one of the most legendary watches in the industry, and this new piece is set to be one of Omega’s most successful.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen

When I asked my friends in attendance at Watches of Wonders what they thought the most impressive release was, a startling number told me it was the Lange Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. As a Lange lover, after reading up on the model, I understood what all the commotion was about. In honor of the 25th anniversary of Lange’s flagship chronograph— the Datograph— this year, Lange decided to pull out all the stops and design the ultimate Lange chronograph. The result was the 740.055FE. First, Lange used honeygold, their proprietary gold with a hardness that surpasses platinum, then, the model was outfitted with a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon in addition to the standard flyback chronograph of the Datograph. But Lange didn’t stop there. This piece was also made as part of Lange’s exclusive “lumen” collection of ultra-collectable, luminous pieces with smoked sapphire dials. This watch would be a standout in any year, and Lange hit it out of the park with this masterpiece as the most impressive iteration of the famed Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon.

Rolex Daytona Le Mans Yellow Gold 

Rolex releases always make for some of the most popular watches in a given year, and this year was no exception. Following the discontinuation of the white gold Daytona Le Mans, Rolex presented the striking yellow gold variant. With a very scarce production (the exact numbers are known only by Rolex), this incredible watch has some of the best contrast thanks to the juxtaposition of yellow gold case with black dial and bezel. Beyond the metal, the yellow gold variant is much the same as the previous Le Mans, with all its Newman-dial, exhibition caseback goodness. While these pieces are extremely expensive and very hard to come by, on paper they are some of the most beautiful Daytonas made in a really long time. We’ll let you be the judge!

Konstantin Chaykin Thin King

There comes a time in watch collecting when you stumble upon Konstantin Chaykin. A Russian independent brand with extremely unique designs and aesthetics, these pieces are unlike watches from any other brand. This year, Konstantin Chaykin released a prototype for what will be the new thinnest watch in production at just 1.65mm. When released, this piece will beat creations from Piaget, RM, and Bulgari, who all had their hand in the thinnest watch competition. Crafted from a special stainless steel material for rigidity, it displays the hours and minutes in two windows on the dial. To bring the thickness down to this level, Chaykin used the caseback of the watch as the mainplate for the movement. The result is a shockingly slim watch deserving of your attention and admiration. Give the brand a look if you haven’t already. They’ve got some exciting pieces on the way.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/60G-001

Finally, we are covering a beautiful new Nautilus from Patek. Having a decidedly modern and casual presence, the reference 5980/60G-001 brings back Patek’s Nautilus flyback chronograph, but in a new presence and configuration. Set to a calfskin, almost denim-like strap, this piece also has a beautiful new dial described by the brand as a “blue-gray”. It’s a brighter, younger feeling color combination, and set alongside the white gold case, it makes for a really beautiful finished piece. Sized 40.5mm by 12.2mm, this piece is a comfortable wearing sports watch that would make for an excellent everyday wear.